it before all our sails were split to pieces: it commenced from the south-east, and in a moment shifted to the north. I shall not attempt to describe this dreadful scene; its horrors exceeded every thing I could have conceived, and the oldest seamen declared they had never met with any thing to equal it. Sailing eastward of the Azores, a pleasant breeze wafted us along the coast of St. Mary's, within sight of its orange groves, villas, hamlets, and corn-fields, scattered among craggy precipices and foaming cascades. We passed between St. Mary's and a chain of rocks called the Hormigas, on which the waves beat violently; and after coasting along St. Michael's, famous for its oranges, we saw several other islands belonging to Portugal, situated about three hundred leagues to the westward of that kingdom. The climate of the Azores, though subject to earthquakes, is mild and salubrious; they afford the inhabitants all the necessaries of life, and abound with corn, wine, and fruits. Angra, in the island of Tercera, is the seat of government, and the residence of the governorgeneral, the bishop, and principal officers: this capital contains a cathedral, and several other churches: there is a good harbour, and generally a brisk trade. After leaving the Azores, the Atlantic presented a lively scene of vessels sailing in all directions: we spoke with several, and exchanged presents of tea, arrack, and Indian delicacies, for the grateful return of English porter, butter, and cheese, on which we regaled for the remainder of the voyage; which, notwithstanding it was now the beginning of summer, was not concluded without fresh gales, boisterous seas, and cold weather; so late as the 30th of May, the decks were covered with snow. At that time our water and provisions running low, and the sails being in a shattered condition, we steered for the Cove of Cork in Ireland; where we arrived the next day, after a voyage, by the log, of twelve thousand nine hundred miles from Bombay. The prospects on the coast of Ireland were very pleasant, especially in the Cove of Cork, which presented a continued succession of villas, parks, and farms, with the ruins of castles and religious edifices. The Cove is spacious, and reckoned one of the most commodious harbours in Europe. We found it crowded with vessels, and anchored near the small town of Cove, about nine miles from Cork, from whence, early the next morning, the Calcutta was filled with company, from the principal nobility to the lowest shopkeepers, flocking on board for India bargains. All the beauty and fashion from the city and the nearer villas were constantly arriving. Longing to be on shore, I accompanied the captain and passengers to Cork; sailing up the river in an open boat, we had beautiful views of several noblemen's and gentlemen's seats on the acclivities of hills sloping to the water's edge, covered with groves, gardens, and farms; while the busy sons of industry and commerce in the different vessels enlivened the picture. We were treated with the greatest kindness and hospitality by many of the principal families at Cork, which ranks next to Dublin in magnitude and wealth, and carries on a more extensive commerce. It contains about fifty thousand inhabitants. As the Calcutta was likely to be detained there for some weeks, and I ardently longed to reach home, I left Ireland on ARRIVAL AT HOME. 459 the 6th of June, with several of our passengers, in the Pitt yacht. We sailed with a fair wind, and next evening saw the lights on Scilly; on the third morning we were off the Land's-end in Cornwall, and swiftly passing the romantic coasts of Devon, on the fourth evening we neared the Isle of Wight; the wind then becoming contrary, we landed the 10th of June at Hastings in Sussex, with feelings which I cannot express; the thrillings of joy were too powerful, and produced a sickness of the heart well known to minds of sensibility. "Bliss goes but to a certain bound- I could neither eat nor sleep; and at three the next morning we set off in a post-chaise and four for London. It was indeed an interesting journey, and most delightful did every thing appear in this lovely month; orchards and hawthorn hedges in full bloom and fragrance, verdant meadows, and springing corn-fields, all united to endear my native land, from which I had been absent eleven years. My happiness was complete on reaching my father's house, and finding my family well. 460 RETURN TO INDIA. CHAPTER XXI. The Author's Return to India-Journey from Surat to Baroche -Senassees-Wells-Illustrations of Scripture-General Character of the Indians-Trade of the Ancients with Barygaza, or Baroche-Modern Cotton Trade at Baroche-Revenues of Baroche - Purgunna-Animals Birds-Fruits Oriental Wines, Sherbets, Ice-Oils and Perfumes-Tribe of BorahsMahomedan Fakeers-Penances of Indian Devotees-Hindoo Colleges-Jattaras-Succulterah-Expiation of Sucla-TirthaMahomedan Festivals-Death of Houssain-English Villa near Baroche Serpents, Guardians of Indian Gardens Ordeal Trials by Water and Rice-Singular Anecdote of a Robbery -Provisions at Baroche-Lower Classes of Society-Court of Adawle at Baroche-Silver Mosque-Mausoleum of BabaRahan-Comparison between Modern Hindoos and Mahomedans-Rajpoots-Singular exile of a Hindoo Family at Bombay-Anecdotes from Lord Teignmouth. THE Voyage to Europe, and a residence of nine months in England, restored my health; when having obtained from the Court of Directors an appointment to the first vacancy at Baroche, a settlement in the province of Guzerat, subordinate to Bombay, I embarked a second time for India in 1777, with a beloved sister, and several agreeable passengers. After a pleasant voyage, and stopping a few days at the Cape for water and refreshments, without an hour's bad weather, losing a man by sickness, or meet SIR WILLIAM JONES. 461 ing with accident or adventure, we arrived at Bombay in little more than four months. Thus circumstanced, a voyage of twelve thousand miles affords no subject for communication; numerous passengers, like myself, have probably traversed the expanse of rolling oceans between Europe and Asia, without once reflecting on the situation which afforded Sir William Jones enthusiastic delight; it requires a mind enlightened and expanded as his own, to enjoy the sensations which he describes in his preliminary discourse to the Asiatic Society at Bengal. I confess it is a passage I never read without envying his feelings, and participating in his pleasures. "When I was at sea last August," says our great Orientalist, "on my voyage to this country, which I had long and ardently desired to visit, I found one evening, on inspecting the observations of the day, that India lay before us, and Persia on our left: whilst a breeze from Arabia, blew nearly on our stern. A situation so pleasing in itself, and to me so new, could not fail to awaken a train of reflections in a mind, which had early been accustomed to contemplate with delight, the eventful histories and agreeable fictions of the eastern world. It gave me inexpressible pleasure to find myself in the midst of so noble an amphitheatre, almost encircled by the vast regions of Asia, which has ever been esteemed the nurse of science, the inventress of delightful and useful arts, the scene of glorious actions, fertile in the productions of human genius, abounding in natural wonders, and infinitely diversified in the forms of religion and government, in the laws, manners, customs, and lan |