will still marshal the resounding hosts upon another plain than that. Herodotus, Josephus, Thucydides, Xenophon, first mould the images of their story in the plastic imagination of the boy, and no visible and possible landscape is vast enough to hold them. The great councils of Rome, the triumphs, the processions, and the fiery words which time has not chilled, these were not held, and seen, and spoken in the Forum whose ruins you have seen, but in some fair and eternal Forum of the imagination. What Bermuda voyager has ever seen the "still vext Bermoothes"-or who ever felt the gray old olive grove on the shore of the Brook Kedron, to be the true Gethsemane? And because Solomon's song had been the proem and the poem of the day, it was difficult to see in the hazy headland, like a point in Nicholas Poussin's landscapes, the Carmel of grim history.— We spurred along the beach upon the full run. Golden Sleeve dropped chibouque and kurbash, scrambled off his horse and on, and gave galloping chase. The Arabs swarmed after, wide-flying-as Homer would have sung on the shore of the loud-sounding sea. The Pacha and I dashed ahead of the turbaned crew, Cœur de Lion and Philip Augustus before Salah-ed-deen, the Crusaders before the Saracens. -Or Julian and Moddalo, rather, who ran along the Lido shore of the same sea,— "For the winds drove The living spray along the sunny air, Into our faces: the blue heavens were bare, Stripped to their depths by the awakening North, Into our hearts aerial merriment." I leaned over the neck of my horse, straining ahead. But in an instant I rolled upon the sand. The stirrup in which I was thoughtlessly hanging my whole weight, broke, and I fell toward the sea, that laughed at me softly with inextinguishable laughter. "Kooltooluk!" cried the Pacha, reining up. My good Arabian stopped instantly, turned to look at me, and the next moment we were all wide-flying again, in the exhilarating air, Crusaders and Saracens, and the sun left us climbing Mount Carmel. XIX. Sea of Galilee. A SHEET of dark-blue water among naked hills, is the Sea of Galilee. Only the dismal little town of Tiberias breaks the mournful monotony of the shore, from which the bold hills gradually recede higher and farther, to the snowy sublimity of Hermon. We came over the mountains from Nazareth, and as we descended to the lake and saw the shattered walls of Tiberias with a few palms, sad and unhandsome in the wind, it seemed to me the most desolate and forlorn of towns. In 1835 an earthquake shook down the village, and the whole landscape has the sullen aspect of a volcanic region. We looked in vain upon the dead calmness of the lake's surface for any trace of the beautiful Jordan, which flows through it. Not a ripple disturbed its dream. Indeed the profound solitude and mountainous sternness of the region, reminded me of the bewitched desolation of the Dead Sea. Here again the woe denounced against the cities of the shore has blasted the sea. With what melancholy curiosity the eye followed Golden Sleeve's finger toward the site of Capernaum. The tent was pitched on the high bank over the lake, with the door toward Mount Hermon, upon which the dying day played wondrous symphonies to the eye. There was no sail or boat upon the lake, and we strolled into the town. It was at Tiberias that Eothen attended the congress of Fleas, and the filth and squalor of this Chapel of Ease to the holy city of Saffet, in the mountains, do not belie their fame. The town is thronged with Flemish Jews who await here the coming of the Messiah, who will reign at neighboring Saffet, before going to Jerusalem. The men, clad in every variety of sordid rags, with long elfish earlocks, a wan and puny aspect, and a kind of drivelling leer and cunning in the eye, were a singular combination of Boz's Fagin, and Carlyle's Apes of the Dead Sea. Never, surely, was so bewitched and strange a population. They had the sallow chalkiness of complexion peculiar to German tailors, and wore the huge bell-crowned black hat which they wear everywhere else in the world. But the women, as if to complete the confusion, were even comely, and their fair round faces, with caps, and the coarse substantiality of the German female costume, perplexed the fancy upon the sea of Galilee. Artistic Leisurlie drew a Christian girl with her water jar, and tried to draw a Muslim boy. But he was afraid, and ran shouting away, laughingly pointing out one of his companions as a proper victim. But we started upon seeing him. Retzsch had been before us, and in his Mephistophiles has drawn only a horribly perfect likeness of that boy of Tiberias. The morning was more merciful to the Sea of Galilee. The sun clomb out of the East over toppling clouds, while we skirted the lake, often walking our horses in the water. The shore blazed with flowers. Had ours been the bridal train of Helen, skirting classic seas, the way could not have been more festally adorned. One Rhododendron upon the shore of Galilee, flames in my memory yet, a symbol of the tropics. The tangled luxuriance of flowers brushed against us, as if to secure in our hearts sweeter remembrances of Galilee, than that of the apes of the Dead Sea, with long ear locks, who haunt the mis erable Tiberias. These flowers are the relics of Caper naum, for so utterly has the city vanished from the earth. A few cattle grazed on the lake side, or stood contemplative in the water. Two or three Bedoueen shepherds gazed listlessly over the lake. It was a bewildering morning. Every day, as you journey in Palestine, the natural imagery of Jesus' speech solicits your eye and touches your heart. As you went down through flowery Zabulon to the sea, you heard him say "Solomon in all his glory was not arrayed like one of these." As your eye wanders musingly over the landscape and marks the solitary towns upon the hills, especially Saffet, above you on the mountains, when you turn away from the Sea of Galilee, you recall "A city set upon an hill can not be hid." Watching the simple and cumbrous processes of grinding grain between stones, usually done by women, you understand that 66 one shall be taken, and the other left." As the camels L |