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rent after a day's rain, although you might
wade across it in fine weather.

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an appearance of great neatness. Fortified on by Mount Jouy, a lofty mountain crowned the land side, this city is protected on the west with a fortress, from the centre of which rises a signal tower. Between the fortress

and the foot of the mountain are vineyards and houses which decorate its sides. On the eastern side the city is overlooked by a citadel

Between Iqualda and Molin del Rey, you have on your left the prospect of MontSerrat, celebrated for its monastery, and the sixty friars whose virtues obtained praise even from a philosopher of the day. The archbishop of Auch, the bishops of Tarbes and Castres passed part of the season of perse-built by Philip V. the purpose of which cution in that retreat, and through their piety and resignation in adversity, acquired the esteem and veneration of their hospitable pro

tectors.

Like all churches in Spain, the convent of Mont-Serrat possesses immense property, accumulated by the piety of the faithful. But who can explore that part of the mountain called the desert, without experiencing a sentiment of respect and admiration for those anchorets, who inhabit thirteen hermitages, built on the points of sharp rocks like so many pyramids, which give the mountain an aspect both hideous and picturesque? Those hermits are for the most part old officers or gentlemen, who having long been tossed on the stormy sea of the passions, seek and find rue felicity in meditation and silence. These impending rocks, these delightful vallies, covered with cool shades and carpeted with rich verdure; these streams of limpid waters precipitating themselves down the sharp edges of the rocks; the doleful croaking of birds of prey that keep slowly hovering over the black points of rocks that seem to reach the clouds; the soft melody of the nightingale, that breaks on the astonished ear; these hermits you meet prostrate before a cross placed at the entrance of some grotto; those contrasts plunge the soul in a delightful reverie, and sensations little short of divine.

From Molin del Rey the distance is only four leagues to Barcelona, the capital of Catalonia. The road follows the banks of the Lobregat for some time, and afterwards leaves it meandring across a fruitful plain on the right. After having passed through several well built and opulent villages, we come to the covered cross; thus called from a lofty cross, placed under an arch supported by coJumus. It is difficult to imagine a more pleasant landscape and a more majestic prospect, than that which is discovered from this hill. To the right and left the sight loses itself on a plain covered with orange, lemon, olive, fig,and almond trees, set in rows, parting the different estates, or scattered about in the fields. Some pretty country houses and manufactories, the white walls of which reflect the rays of the sun, offer an agreeable contrast with the deep green of the trees. the distance of a league, and directly opposite, At stands the city of Barcelona. It seems as if fresh from the hands of the workmen: the houses painted white on the outside, give it

seems rather to awe the inhabitants than to protect them: though it might answer this last intention if absolutely necessary. The sea semicircular horizon. If, while going down on the south terminates the picture by a vast the soft declivity that leads from the covered eye is agreeably engaged by a chain of mouncross to Barcelona, we look behind us, the summit of those mountains is covered with tains that border the plain on the north. The groves of pine trees; the sides with vineyards in a high state of cultivation; the foot with villages and country houses farther than the eye can reach, vieing with each other in beauty and elegance. On Sundays and other these country houses for diversion and pleafestivals the inhabitants of Barcelona visit sure.

of commercial activity and industry, let him Whoever desires to meet with an instance visit Barcelona. Men think of, talk about, lations; the merchants and manufacturers are and concern themselves in, nothing but specucrowded together.

may easily be walked around in an hour, yet The city of Barcelona it contains 180,000 souls, and the churches, convents, and palaces are numerous, and cover much ground.

wine and brandy with the north, in cotton, The trade of this city consists principally in alone draws, on an average, 80,000 pipes of stuffs and paper with America. Holland wine or brandy yearly from Barcelona. Corn from the coasts of Africa, and flour from the United States of America forin other branches of trade; but that with Turkey is abandoned. The Barcelonians supplied the Turks formerly king invited them some years ago to resume with the caps they use instead of hats. that lucrative branch of trade, but they do not scem inclined to it.

The

the cleansing of their port, before fifty years If the Barcelonians neglect much longer have elapsed, merchant ships will not be able and that of Besos at the east, bring down sands to enter it. The river Lobregat at the west, which the currents drift into the bay, where they form a bar which vessels of 400 tons perceive that the sea retires gradually: the burthen can scarcely get over. It is easy to Marquis de la Mina, and separated from little town of Barcelonette, built by the Barcelona by a bastion, the walls of which the sea bathed formerly, now appears to be land which the sca has abandoned. In the

gale of the 22d Dec. 1802, the sea recovered on the N. N. E. of Barcelonette a space of about thirty fathom of the ground it had quitted during the ten preceding years. Three houses were demolished by the waves. Had this retrograde movement of the sea any connection with the earthquake which was felt at that time from St. Petersburgh to Algiers? I leave this problem to the determination of the learned.

The Dutch, feeling the advantage of preserving the port of Barcelona, proposed to the Spanish government to dig a new port in the plain between Mount Jouy and the city of Barcelona; this plain is now occupied by gardens which supply the inhabitants with vegetables. They offered to defray the expence, to build the quays, and in compensation for the funds they destined to it, they requested an exclusive privilege of exportation for thirty years. His catholic majesty did not think proper to accede to their proposal. Various plans have been presented since; but till this day they content themselves with the placing some (maries salopes) in the port, vessels employed to cleanse the ports, that do not take up in six months so much sand as an easterly or S. westerly gale brings in a few hours. At the time of their majesties' journey to Barcelona in 1802, the king, in return for the testimonies of affection shewn him by the Barcelonians, gave up some duties on merchandize, on condition that their produce should be applied to the necessary works for the preservation of the port.

The most remarkable public buildings are : -The custom house, the front of which is built in marble. The great room of this edifice is allotted to the meeting of merchants at exchange hours, and serves as a ball-room during the carnival. Also the barracks, a very beautiful building, which may be consi dered as a sort of fortification to the city. These barracks, of an immense extent overlook the city walk, and one of the largest squares or places in Barcelona: they can only be entered by two gates, which are open on the sides and placed under two batteries that command the sea. Turn the guns and they would destroy the city. One of the gates opens toward the road leading to the fortress on Mount Jouy. The sovereigns of Spain are known to have employed every means to intimidate the Catalonians, whose restless and turbulent spirit has caused them to revolt several times. The courage and energy they displayed in the defence of Barcelona would have reflected credit on them, had they been legally employed. But that spirit of insurrection is quelled, and in the war of 1793 the Catalonians gave proofs of their loyalty and zeal.

The situation, the walks, and the very air which is breathed at Barcelona, concur to

make it one of the most pleasant residences. It might be wished that the word dines (money) were a little less frequent. That word it is said is the second that children are taught to pronounce; and Dios (God) the first. The wags go so far as to say, that these two words make but one in the Catalonian language.

These who love to admire Roman monuments, ought not to quit Catalonia without going to Tarragona, where the Scipios dwelt. It is distant 25 leagues from Barcelona.

Before reaching Villa Franca, about half way between Barcelona and Tarragona, the traveller should stop at the bridge of Llodanet: this bridge, of a stupendous and bold construction, joins two lofty mountains over the top of which the road passes. An impetuous torrent rolls along between the two rocks with a dreadful noise.

Two leagues before we reach Tarragona, we pass under a triumphal arch, admirably preserved to this day. The construction of this monument dates as far back as the reign of Trajan.

Still following the high road, coasting the sea, appears a little wood of pine trees; where, on the right hand, in a semi-circular open place, we contemplate a tomb which the hand of time has not spared: two small shrubs which have taken root, and grown through the crevices, overshade this monument: the moss that covers it does not totally conceal two slaves in the attitude of grief. It is not known whose loss they are supposed to deplore. To this monument is attached the name of Scipio's Tomb.

On reaching the top of the high mountain on which the city of Tarragona is built, after admiring the boundless prospect of the ocean, we may examine the walls of a palace of Augustus, which partly serve to enclose the building wherein the governor of the city lodges; we may also explore the remains of an amphitheatre, and read several inscriptions of a more modern date, on stones which the Emperor Charles V. placed in the bastions; and trace an aqueduct which supplied the inhabitants of the Roman Tarragona with water from a distance of seven leagues.

We have already spoken of the port which the citizens of Tarragona had undertaken. It required no less than the constancy and perseverance of Spaniards to surmount the natural obstacles to this work: but they are in a great measure overcome, and the inhabitants begin to enjoy the reward due to their labours. This city must necessarily deprive Barcelona in time of that trade which occasions its present prosperity.

The port of Saion receives at present only the ships that come to take in the 40,000 pipes of wine or brandy which the city of Rens, about a league in land, exports annual

Switzerland and Italy are visited in quest of picturesque and striking prospects; but I think it difficult to find in those countries any thing more curious and variegated than the road from Barcelona to the Pyrenees, to which route we now return. A painter would stop at every step, and always find some new landscape to delineate.

ly. It is in this small but commercial city | crowned with redoubts. It was on the Fluthat the most extensive glass houses of Cata- via that Don Joseph Urrutia stopped the prolonia are established. gress of the invading army, and from the position of Col de Riols that he wished to undertake the plan he had conceived to drive back the French beyond the mountains: which project peace prevented. We ford the Fluvia and reach Figueras, after two hours march. When we visit the castle of San Fernando, that masterpiece of fortification, the walls and all external works of which are built in free stone; and the barracks, infirmary, stables, storehouses, ramparts and even barying ground are casemated; when we see that castle, which was defended by 8,000 infantry and 1,500 cavalry, furnished with a numerous artillery, and supplied with plenty of provisions and aminunition, we ask how it could be possible that such a place should have capitulated without firing a shot? When peace with France had been signed, the king of Spain ordered a Court of Inquiry into the conduct of the officer who commanded in San Fernando. He was sentenced to die, but instead of having his head placed on the gates of the place where he had disgraced himself, his catholic majesty commuted the sentence into perpetual banishment.

Having travelled for the space of four leagues in the plain where Barcelona is built, we reach Mataro, a very pretty little town, surrounded with orchards, filled with orange, lemon, almond, and granate trees. Mataro carries on a considerable wine trade, and has several silk, cotton, and lace manufactories, which supply Spanish America with these articles.

On leaving Mataro, we quit the plain; the prospects now lose the monotony of their former regularity, and become truly romantic. Ascending and descending hills covered with vineyards and country houses; crossing vallies filled with olive, orange, and fig trees; sometimes reaching the point of a rock we behold the sea several hundred fathoms below, and fear to be precipitated into it; but a winding in the road discovers a village, the houses of which are of a dazzling whiteness; 1 with its fisheries in front and gardens behind. Having reached the bottom of the hill, and crossed this village, we are delighted with the neatness and industry every house exhibits. At the doors we see children, and young girls, for the most part remarkably healthy and handsome, employed in making lace for the supply of the West Indies, and beguiling their labour with innocent songs. Happiness beams on their features, and simplicity and candour in their deportment. The carriages and travellers that are for ever passing before them do not divert their attention for an instant. Such are the towns of Arend de Mar, Canet (this has a port and carries on trade with America), St. Pol, Callella and Pineda. At the distance of about half a league from the last we bid adieu to the sea, and enter a mountainous country, covered with green oaks, cork-trees (alconorques), and furze. This gloomy prospect is often diversified by pleasant and fruitful vallies, and after having forded 'the river Tudara, we enter a plain, overlooked by the city of Girone, built on the declivity of hills, covered with forts and entrenchments. From Girone to Figueras is about four hours travelling across a well cultivated country; the military traveller may observe the position of Col de Riols, occupied by the Spanish army that defended the passage of the Fluvia, a river that meanders through a narrow valley at the foot of the hills, which the Spaniards had

On quitting Figueras we cross a grove of olive trees. The royal carabineers evinced there several times that the whole army was not composed of such men as the governor of San Fernando. After passing the bridge of Molins, we perceive a cross on the left; it marks the place where the count of La Union fell, as he was storming a battery which he had very nearly reached. That general was always true and brave, but his success was

not constant.

Following the high road constantly overlooked by batteries which were erected either for the attack or defence of the two armies: the mind is led to inquire what benefits remain to compensate for all that blood spilt for the good of the present and future generations? Some few more names inscribed on the registers of human immortality! After indulging a few melancholy reflexionsLa Jonquieras, the last Spanish habitation, presents itself.

Two hours are sufficient to pass from hence to Perthus, the first French village. Perthus lies at the foot of the fortress of Bellegarde, the bastions and walls of which still bear the marks of Spanish valour, and the talents of Don Antonio Ricardos.

Catalonia, which we have just quitted, was inhabited by the Goths and Alans, who named it Gothalonia. It measures seventy. leagues in length from east to west, and forty and forty-eight in its least and greatest breadth; it has upwards of eighty leagues of coast along the Mediterranean.

The climate is very healthy, and near the Coast delightfully temperate in consequence of the sea breeze, which springs up at ten o'clock every morning, and ceases soon after sunset. The heat of the summer is very supportable; and the winter is scarcely felt on the sea shore; the mountains contiguous to the Pyrenees are covered with snow during the winter, and the cool breeze that blows from that part of the north contributes to the salubrity of the plains.

The population of this principality amounts to about 1,400,000 souls, according to the

calculation made some years ago.

HYDROPHOBIA.

To the Editor of the Literary Panorama, Sir,-As every thing relating to this deadand though it has escaped your notice in ful malady may be interesting to the public, your review of Mr. Barrow's voyage to Cochin China (Vol. I. p. 44.), yet the following excerpt seems to claim attention; — it shews that hydrophobia in the east is produced by the bite of various animals.

"The Dutch doctors in Java," says Mr. This province is generally mountainous. B. "are of opinion that certain cases of Pine, chesnut, beech, and green oak trees hydrophobia which have occurred, notwithare found on the mountains; corn is culti-standing no instance of canine madness was vated in the plains, but not in sufficient quan- ever known on the island, may be attributed tity for the consumption of the inhabitants. to climate, and the state of the constitution Catalonia abounds in marble, jasper, and ala- as affected by it. The bite of the large baster quarries. Mines of silver, lead, iron, Indian rat, commonly called the Bandicoot, tin, alum and vitriol, are found there like- is supposed to occasion hydrophobia and certain death. The bite of an enraged man is said to be as certain of producing hydrophobia as that of a mad dog; two cases of which had happened not long before our arrival.

wise.

MOUNTAIN ASH-TREE BEARING PEARS.

We have already given the history of several unique or remarkable trees: the following may certainly be added to them.

Report speaks of a mountain ash-tree in the forest near Bewdly bearing pears. This identical tree was described by Alderman Pitts of Worcester, in the Philosophical Transactions as long ago as the year 1678: it still flourishes in the forest of Wyre, near Bewdley, in full strength and beauty. A few years ago it was accurately and scientifically described by Mr. Sowerby in his English Botany, under the name of the Pyrus Domestica. The plate 350 of that useful and elegant work represents a branch of the tree bearing fruit and flowers, which was sent to the editor, as a specimen, by Lord Viscount Valentia, who then resided in the neighbourhood at his seat at Over Asley. This tree is, I believe, quite a rarity, and I think likely to remain so, as every endeavour to propagate it has hitherto The country people call it

failed of success.

the "Witty Pear Tree."

It is probable that the seeds or saplings of this tree, it being out of the common course of nature, may not have prolific power sufficient to propagate their species. We would recommend a trial of the Chinese method of treating the branches; [compare article CHINA, in OBSERVANDA EXTERNA, of the present Number] and if some of the most promising could be induced by careful management to take root, by that means, they would no doubt retain the same powers as they posses sed while united to the parent tree. This appears to us to be the most probable mean of establishing this accidental specimen into a species! Query the morality of such a violation of the permanent laws of nature?

"A man, in a moment of rage which originated in a furious scuffle, bit another in the arm. Three days after the patient was attacked with fever, but no particular regard was had to the wound. The surgeon observed that he was in a state of continued delirium; and that he had a strong aversion to water. On the fourth day the surgeon ou entering the apartment, found him stabbing himself repeatedly with a knife. When a glass of water was presented to him, the most ghastly spasmodic convulsions were observable in his face, and over his whole body, accompanied with such a degree of terror that he exclaimed : Jesus, have mercy on me!" This terror increased on wiping his bloody hands with a wet napkin, when, in convulsive agonies, he called out, "Oh God, water!" Perceiving clearly that hydrophobia had supervened from the bite received in anger, the surgeons resolved to treat him accordingly, but he died in the afternoon of the same day.

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Pliny classes the bite of a man among the very worst of wounds given in this manner. Dr. Le Dulx mentions, in the "Transactions the Batavian Society," several instances of hydrophobia succeeding to the bite of enraged animals, as the case of a boy bit by a duck; and of a feeder of cocks who, being pecked in the hand by one of these animals in separating it from its antago nist, died under every symptom of hydrophobia and madness. The bite of the common domestic cat, rendered furious by provocation, is well known to produce hydrophobia.”Yours, &c.

LECTOR.

BRITISH MUSEUM..

In p. 287 of the present volume, we gave a History of the Foundation and Progress of this National Institution; we now insert a Synopsis of the Contents of this magnificent and interesting Repository, 1808.

On entering the gate of the Museum, a spacious quadrangle presents itself, with an Ionic colonnade on the south side, and the main building on the north; the two wings being allotted for the dwellings of the officers. This building measures 216 feet in length, and 57 in height. The Architect, Peter Puget, a native of Marseilles, and an artist of the first eminence in his time, was sent over from Paris by Ralph, first Duke of Montagu, for the purpose of constructing this Mansion.

GROUND FLOOR.

The Library of Printed Books Is on the first floor of this grand Edifice, consisting of twelve rooms. Strangers are not conducted through these apartments, as the mere sight of the outside of books cannot convey either instruction or amusement. They are arranged under fourteen general heads. The room containing Ecclesiastical History is at present the Reading Room.

An Alphabetical Catalogue of the Library was printed in the year 1787, in two volumes folio; but as great accessions have been obtained of late, this Catalogue is now under revision, and a new edition, greatly enlarged, is almost ready for press.

The corapanies, on being admitted, are conducted up the great staircase, the decorations of which have been lately restored. The paintings on the ceiling, representing Phaeton petitioning Apollo for leave to drive his chariot, are by Charles de la Fosse, who was deemed one of the best colourists of the French school, and who was chosen to execute a part of the paintings on the cupola of the dome of the Invalids, which are ranked among the admiranda of Paris. The landscapes and architectural decorations are by Jaines Rousseau, whose particular skill in perspective has at all times been held in high estimation.

UPPER FLOOR.

1st Room: Modern Works of Art. This Room contains a miscellaneous collection, from all parts of the world, arranged as near as possible in geographical order, viz. Europe, 4 cases; Asia, 3; Africa, 1;/South America, 1; E. Coast of N. America, 1; W Coast of N. America, 4; Otaheite, 4; Sandwich Islands and Marquesas, 4; Friendly Islands, 2; New Zealand, 2; and various small articles in a table.

The cieling, representing the fall of Phacton, was painted by La Fosse. 2d Room empty at present.

Department of Manuscripts. 3d Room. Lansdown Library of Many scripts.

4th Room. The Collections of MSS. by Sir H. Sloane-Dr. Birch-Mr. Halhed Mr. Hasted, &c. A Catalogue was publish ed by Rev. S. Ayscough, in 1772.

5th Room. Part of the Harleian Library of MSS.

6th Room. First Part of Harleian MSS; and Additions since the establishment of the Museum.

Additions by gift, bequest, and purchase, among which are particularly remarkable: 57 volumes of public acts relating to the history of England, from 1115 to 1008, collected by Rymer, but not printed in his Foedera; and 64 volumes of rolls of Parliament; deposited in the Museum by the House of Lords.-47 volumes, relating to the history of Ireland, presented by Rev. Jeremiah Milles, Dean of Exeter.-43 volumes of Icelandic manuscripts, presented by Sir Joseph Banks.—41 volumes, decisions of the commissioners for settling the City estates after the fire of London, presented by Thomas Cowper, Esq.-44 volumes relating to the history of music, bequeathed by Sir John Hawkins.-47 volumes of music, chiefly church music, by old composers, bequeathed by James Matthias, Esq.-38 vo lumes of MSS and 9 of drawings, collections towards a topography of Sussex, bequeathed by Sir Wm. Burrell, Kut. and 44 volumes by Sir Wm. Musgrave, Bart.-A collection of MSS. chiefly relating to the county and University of Cambridge, bequeathed by Rev. W. Cole. M. A.

Two rolls of the Pentateuch on vellum, one of considerable antiquity.

An original deed in Latin, written on papyrus, being a conveyance of land to a monastery, dated Ravenna, anno 572, bought at the sale of the Pinelli library; and a large specimen of the reed (Cyperus Papyrus) of which that kind of paper is made: also anItalian. note to Sir W. Hamilton written on modern papyrus, explaining the mode of preparing it.

7th Room. The Royal Library of Manuscripts, deposited in 33 Presses; and the Cottonian Library of Manuscripts, deposited

in 31 Presses.

A Catalogue by Mr. Planta, was printed by His Majesty's command, in 1802, fol.

In the Cottonian library are deposited 94 volumes of extracts, chiefly relating to the Exchequer, collected by Thomas Madox, Esq..

In a glazed frame, is the original of Magna Charta belonging to the Cottonian library; and by the side of it is a fac-simile engraving of it, by Pine. The original of the Articles preparatory to the signing of the great Charter,

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