vivum; one pound of each, put into a large waterpotful of soap-suds and urine. I let it stand for two or three days, occasionally stirring it up during that time, and then it is fit for use.

By this treatment, all my trees do as well as I can wish. I find the wash is a great preservation to the trees from the attack of insects; and it causes the trees to look as green the summer after it is applied, as a pasture-field looks the summer after it has been dressed. I recommended the use of it to a neighbouring gardener, and during the time of the operation, his employer advised him to be cautious how he made use of it, unless he was better acquainted with it. He left off at once, and in the following summer any person could see across the garden how far the trees were done, for the part dressed looked a dark green colour, while the other part assumed a yellowish colour. I have not, at this time, an unhealthy tree in the garden (and this last spring was a trying one for fruit trees, my plums suffered much that were not covered,) and I have had this season the finest crop of Peaches and Nectarines I ever had in my life.

When the trees become too large to be covered with a mat, I have curtains made to cover the whole of two south walls and some east walls. The curtains are made of strong canvass, it costs about fourpence per yard; I have four breadths sewed together, which make one curtain, I have them nearly to the coping, and about eighteen inches from the ground. I draw them sideways like bed-curtains, which I consider much better than hoisting them with lines and pullies. I have nine rings sewed on with strong tape to the top, and also to the bottom of each curtain, and in one or two places between the top and bottom of the curtains, which keeps them from being much strained by the wind. A piece of tape is sewed on where the rings are fastened, to strengthen the curtain, and the rings run upon small iron rods like bed-curtain rods, fixed into studs made of deal or fir, about two inches and a half square, which are made moveable. First, I have irons drove into the wall like the annexed figure, one near the top and another near the bottom, to fix the studs into; the top one projects six inches from the wall, and the bottom one nine; there are holes in the irons for iron pins (each with a head) to go in and through the stud, which keep it quite firm. The curtain-rods are made with a head at one end, and a screw at the other; holes are made in the studs to slip the rods through, then a nut is put on the screw which keeps all tight; the curtains have a sheath or pocket at each side similar to the under vallance of a bed, to admit a lath of about two inches by three-quarters of an inch, one serves to draw the curtain backwards and forwards. These laths are great strengtheners to the curtains during rough winds, for till I used the laths, the curtains were often rent at the edges. Loops of tape are sewed at three or four places at the sides of each curtain, to slip over nails in the studs to keep them from being destroyed by the wind. I neither use line nor pulley, and the whole may be drawn or undrawn by one person in fifteen minutes. At the distance the studs stand from the wall, the sun is admitted to shine under, when the curtains are undrawn, so that no part of the tree is shaded to hurt. At the top of the studs, just under the coping, I have a sort of weather-board, about nine inches wide, tacked on to protect the trees from perpendicular frosts. I keep the studs, rods, irons, and weather-boards all well painted, and when not in use all are packed away in a dry place except the irons, which remain fixed in the wall, and all except the curtains will last nearly as long as the wall. I have a bit of lead with a number stamped upon it, which is nailed to each stud, and a corresponding one is nailed to the wall, so that every stud is easily carried and fixed to its own place without difficulty; the curtains are all made exactly of a size, and so will fit any part of the wall.

I have found the curtains of great use, to cover green-gage and other plums, just before they are getting ripe, to draw over the trees in heavy rains to prevent their cracking.

September 11th, 1834.

ARTICLE II.-CULTURE OF THE MELON,

As Practised by Mr. Forbes, at Woburn Abbey, extracted from the Hortus Woburnensis.

THE Melon and Cucumber plants, bearing a strong analogy to each other in their growth, require but little variation in their general treatment. The former being of a less robust nature, it is with more difficulty that a stock of healthy plants can be procured in the gloomy winter months; frequent sowings are consequently made at various periods in January and February, in order to secure a stock of plants, which should be raised in a seed bed previously prepared for the Cucumber. When the plants have attained the height of two to three inches, with their seed leaves almost fully developed, they should be pricked out into pots about four inches diameter, placing three in each, as some of them will be liable to damp off; but when the season is more advanced, two plants in a pot will be sufficient. When the first or second rough leaf bursts forth, the plants should be stop

ped at the first or second joint, which will be the means of strenthening them, and induce lateral branches to push out from the centre of the plants. While they are nursing in the seed bed, the department in which they are intended to produce their fruit must be got in readiness, and prepared according to the directions specified for the Cucumber beds; and when the burning heat has subsided, the mould may be spread over the surface of the bed, and frequently turned for a few days, so as that every part may become dry, and got into a congenial state for the reception of the plants. The soil that appears best adapted for the growth of the Melon, is the top spit (with the sward intermixed with it) of a pasture, that consists of rather a strong yellow loam, a few months previously prepared, well chopped up, and turned two or three times before it is used.

When the soil in the frames is thoroughly warmed through, and collected into hills under each light, the plants may be put in, turning them carefully out of their pots, and keeping them as close to the glass in the first instance, as they will admit, as the fermenting substance will soon subside; and if not well prepared and trodden, it would leave the plants at too great a distance from the glass. After planting, a little aired water is given, to settle the soil about the

roots.

The lights must be now well covered during the nights, and the temperature in the frames not permitted to fall below 66 degrees with artificial heat, and from 80 to 85 degrees with sun heat; but when air can be freely admitted, the temperature must be increased 8 or 10 degrees. The exterior linings of dung must be well attended to, so as not to let the heat get too much exhausted before they are renewed with additional dung. A little fresh air should be given at all favourable opportunities, and the interior of the frame kept in a sweet and healthy state, otherwise the plants will make but little progress.

When their Vines begin to extend themselves, they must be kept pegged down to the surface, and a little fresh soil added progressively to the hills, before the entire bed is moulded over to the depth of a foot or fourteen inches, which will be of sufficient thickness for the nourishment of the Melon plant. It is necessary, also, to be careful in watering the Melon; for if much is given close to its stems, it will be subject to canker and rot off before the crop of fruit is ripened; therefore the water should rather be applied to the extremities of the roots than to the centre. Care should likewise be taken not to injure or break the foliage, and to avoid wetting the incipient fruit and blossoms as much as possible. In short, while the fruit is setting, water should be almost suspended. At an early period of the year the impregnation should be assisted, as will be directed for the Cucumber. The Melon, being a plant rather impatient of much lopping, the Vines should be spread out thinly at the first arranging of the shoots, and the knife but sparingly used until the first crop is ripened off, only thinning out the weaker and unproductive Vines. But as soon as the fruit is gathered, it should have a thorough pruning, cutting away all the weak and unhealthy shoots, and shortening back those that are to remain to the most promising joints, which will push out strongly, and may produce as good or even a better second crop than the first. The heat of the beds will require to be kept up, by the exterior linings of dung, until Midsummer, when if the weather is at all favourable, the effects of the sun will keep the internal atmosphere of the beds sufficiently high, and the linings may be dispensed with. For succession crops, there must be additional beds prepared monthly, until the middle of June, when the last planting may be made for the latest crop of Melons; the beds that are prepared in the latter months, will not require to be so strongly built as those which were made up at an earlier period of the year.

ARTICLE III.

PLAN AND DESCRIPTION OF A NEW FORCING-PIT.

BY MR. W. MATHERS.

I SOLICIT your attention to the enclosed Plan of a New Forcing-Pit, (fig. 32) which I have proved, with the exception of the position of the Roof. The chamber in which the dung is placed is 4 feet deep being about 18 inches below the surface line, the walls which surround it are 9 inch brick work, on both fronts are two openings 2 feet 6 in.

square marked M, each with moveable doors through which the dung is introduced, the doors fit at top and bottom into a groove and fastened across with small wood bars into one round and one open staple as marked. In front of the doors is a small area marked A, sunk in

the ground, surrounded by a wood curb, by which the introduction or removal of the dung is performed. The pit is erected North and South. Through the centre of the pit is a walk 2 feet in width marked C, including the parapet walls; at the south end of the walk is a cistern 2 feet square, marked B. The parapet walls are single brick, the height 6 feet, including the curb; the walk is raised 2 feet for the convenience of reaching over the walls to do what is necessary. The supporters of the bed are cast iron bars, 20 inches apart, with a ridge in the middle on which slate or tile is placed, bedded in lime morter, so that any racid dung may be used without injury. A small fire flue marked E, is carried round above the dung chamber; at the north end above the furnace is a ventilater marked J, for rarifying the air. Through the centre of the pit is a small tin pipe, marked K, fixed to the top full of small holes, with a ventilator at each end,

also marked J, for the condense air to pass off, a set of small sashes marked L, 1 foot deep for the admittance of more air when necessary, hung with joints at the top. The bottom convenience are small iron bars, with holes, as in use, the depth of soil from 20 inches to 2 feet upon the slate or tile; the walk may be considered a loss, but when considered by a professional Gentleman will no doubt appear very advantageous. The plants are to be trained up under the glass and over head, the steps into the shed are marked G; the letter P is a small spout to receive the water from the roof to which is attached a lead pipe marked O, to conduct the said water into cistern B. The letter I, are the steps into the walk, the letter F furnace, N, the plugs for the convenience of cleansing the flues.