three feet from the stem, according to the size of the tree, and filling them up with light rich soil. In renewing the old border, take out a trench at one end and carry it to the other, which will be ready to fill the last with. If the old border never had any stones, &c. put at the bottom, it should be done by laying some at the bottom of every trench; a drain may be made also by digging a little lower in front. The quantity of dung, loam, &c. for renewing, must depend entirely on the state of the old border, if it is much exhausted it will want a good portion of well rotted dung, with some fresh loam and road scrapings; if it is not much exhausted it will want the greatest portion of loam with a little dung and road scrapings. Some Gardeners make fruit tree borders very rich, which often prove very hurtful to the trees, by causing them to make a great deal of strong wood and produce but little fruit; if there is any bad soil in the old border such as clay, gravel, &c. it must be taken away.

I do not think it necessary to make the border so deep for every sort of fruit trees, as I stated above for making new borders, that depth is the most suitable for Peaches, Nectarines, and Apricots. Pears and Cherries do well in about twenty inches of soil on a bed of stones and gravel. Plums and Apples want two feet. Grape Vines two feet and a half, on a bed of stones eight or ten inches deep. Figs want eighteen inches.

In making new borders, or renewing the old, some difference should be made in the soil for different kinds of trees, if it can be conveniently done. I subjoin a list of a few kinds of fruit trees, with the sort of soil which each kind will do well in.

For Peaches, Nectarines, Apricots, Plums, and Grape Vines, half of good top-spit loam; a little more then one fourth of well rotted dung, and another fourth part of road scrapings and vegetable mould, the whole mixture must be well incorporated.

For Pears and Apples, three-fourths of loam, one fourth of road scrapings and vegetable mould well mixed. For Cherries a fresh hazel loam with a little well rotted dung.

For Figs, a rich pliable loam.

I hope I shall not intrude too far on your pages, but I must add that stones are of great importance at the bottom of fruit trees. They take off the superfluous moisture in wet weather, and retain moisture in times of drought. The fruit is also much better flavoured when the tree grows on a dry bottom.

June 10th, 1834.

ARTICLE III.

MONTHLY HORTICULTURAL CALENDAR,

FOR AUGUST.

FRUIT DEPARTMENT.

Apple Trees. About the beginning of the month, a small buffcoloured moth deposits its eggs on the under side of the leaves, where in a few days they will be hatched. They feed in droves, and forming themselves a kind of web, they remain feeding till September or October, and then go into the pupa state, in which they remain till the following spring. There is another also which deposits its eggs at the same time, and also feeds in a thick web. They both are evidently the same species that feed on the sallow, &c. &c. the webs of which hang in such abundance upon our hedges throughout the summer. The last moth is white, covered with many distinct black spots. There is also another with wings of a chocolate colour, marbled with white, which deposits its eggs about the middle of the month. The caterpillars may be gathered by the hand, and the trees syringed with soap suds any time in the course of the month.

Cherry Trees. If caterpillers begin to infest the trees this month, pick off the infested leaves, and towards the end of the month, wash the trees well with warm suds. If the black fly appears, mix some tobacco water with soap and water.

Bud Peach and Nectarine Trees, as also several other sorts of fruit Trees, early in the month.

Currant Trees should now be matted in dry weather, to preserve them till late in the season:

Fig Trees out of doors will begin to ripen their fruit; give them abundance of water at the roots, if the weather be dry. Soap-suds are the best.

Gooseberry Trees may possibly be infested about the beginning of the month with a second brood of caterpillers; keep them down with the hand until the fruit is all gathered; then boil some foxglove plants in an old copper, or any vessel not used for other purposes, and water the trees over head with the liquor through the rose of a watering-pot. The effects will be instantaneous, and in a great measure this will prevent their appearance the following year. Be careful not to water the ripe fruit with it, for it may have an injurious effect upon the individuals who eat it.

Peach and Nectarine Trees, if infested with the Aphis and red Spider, may be treated as follows:-To three bushels of quick lime and three bushels of soot, add twenty gallons of soft water; stir it up, and take off the scum for several days; then take the clear liquor, and add one quart of good tobacco water to every two gallons, and apply it with a syringe or engine. For the red Spider, add, about a quarter of a pound of sulphur to the above quantity.

Pear Trees may be occasionally watered with clear lime water, to destroy the little insect which feeds upon the upper rind and pulp of the leaves.

Plum Trees if infested with the Aphis, as soon as the fruit is gathered, pick off the worst of the leaves on which they are feeding, wash the trees well with soap-suds and strong tobacco-water, which, in general, will be found effectual at the first dressing.

Strawberry Beds, in late situations, and now in bearing, will require watering, if the weather proves dry. Those in pots intended for forcing must be constantly divested of their runners. This is also a good time to plant new beds.

Vines in Pots now brought into the Vinery will ripen their fruit in January.

VEGETABLE DEPARTMENT.

Carrots sown about the middle of the month will be fit for table in the spring. A small fly deposits its eggs on the carrot, about the beginning of the month, but we are unable either to tell what sort it is or how to destroy it properly and effectually.

Cabbage Seed sown the first week will come in for coleworts in winter and spring. Also finish planting Savoys, &c.

Cauliflowers planted out now will be in use from October. Towards the end of the month, sow more seed to stand the winter in frames.

Celery planted out last month, will require earthing in fine weather; and more should be planted for spring use.

Cucumbers raised from cuttings, if well watered and otherwise looked after, will bear abundantly from the beginning of September. Endive. Plant out for a full crop, and sow more seeds to come into use early in the spring.

Lettuces sown in the first and third weeks, come into use in October; plant out also from the seedling beds such plants as are of a sufficient size.

Onions must be taken up in fine weather. Sow a few Stratsburgh to use in October and November; and about the middle of the month, sow a crop of Welsh for winter use.

Mushroom Beds made now, come into use in October.

Broccoli. Sow Green Cape, and Early Purple Cape, to produce heads in April and May next year.

Shallots and Garlic must be taken up, if not already removed. Choose dry weather for the purpose, and spread them out until sufficiently dry to tie up in bunches.

Sweet and Bitter Herbs are readily propagated by slips or cuttings. And on fine days they should be gathered, to dry for winter use; let this be done just before they come into flower.

Spinach. The prickly and Flanders should be sown for a full winter crop, not later than the middle of the month.

Turnips should be sown in the first week for a main crop at the end of autumn, and about twice more to succeed them.

ARTICLE IV.

CONSTRUCTION OF THE PINERY, AT WOBURN ABBEY,
As Figured and Described in the Hortus Woburnensis.

BY MR. FORBES.

THE annexed Ground Plan, (Fig. 21,) and Section (22), will illustrate the principle upon which the Pine-House at Woburn Abbey is erected. It is executed from the designs of W. Atkinson, Esq. This house is 65 feet long, and 13 feet wide, in the clear; and is divided into two divisions (one of which only we have figured.) The sashes and rafters are wood, and fixtures; consequently air is admitted by the ventilators (d, d.,) that are placed in the top of the back wall, and along the centre of the front wall, which together with opening the doors, will admit a sufficiency of air in the summer season, for the Pine Apple. The house is heated by hot water, with separate boilers and pipes to each division; there is one boiler for each division, which is placed in a recess about the centre of the back wall, (a) the dimensions of which are two feet six inches long, one foot six inches wide, and one foot eight inches deep, of an oblong square. There are two pipes (b. b. see Section,) attached to each boiler, one near the top, and the other at the bottom; the upper pipe is round, until it reaches the front of the house, when it forms a square of 12 inches broad by four inches in diameter; the lower pipe is circular, and four inches in diameter. These pipes convey the water from the boilers across the ends, and along the front of the house to the reservoir belonging each division as (d., see Ground Plan,) which is of the same dimensions as the boiler, and is filled with water, flowing from the boiler; as the pipes, reservoir and boiler, are placed all on the same level, and filled about equally, within half an inch of the top, so as to allow room for circulating the heat regularly from one end to the other. When the fire is lighted under the boiler, the water, as soon as it begins to get hot, immediately ascends to the top of the boiler, and flows along the upper pipe, to the reservoir, when it forces the cold before it in the under pipe, back into the bottom of the boiler. The circulation of water is continued from one extremity of the house to the other; the hottest passing rapidly along the upper pipe, and the coldest returning through the lower one, back into the boiler, which will soon heat the pipes so as to raise the atmosphere of the house, in the severest weather, from 75 to 80 degrees, and that when we have had 28 degrees of frost. Each of these houses, or compartments, are capable of containing 70 fruiting

Pine plants; the atmosphere of the house may be kept regularly from 60 to 65 degrees, in the severest weather, without consuming more than three-fourths of a bushel of coals to each division; or a bushel and a half to the two compartments. The fermenting leaves in the pits also assist in keeping up this temperature. The pipes, boiler, and reservoir in each, contain about 140 gallons of water; when the fires are first lighted to the Pinery, the furnaces, &c. being then cold and damp, it takes about an hour to heat the water to 130 degrees; but when it is once heated, after the first night, it may be raised to the same temperature in 20 minutes; as from the volume contained in the apparatus, it will retain its heat for nearly 24 hours, con