1830.] Walk through the Highlands.-Island of Staffa. gether unable to give any adequate idea, is not to be conceived by individuals who have not themselves visited the spot; in attempting to delineate it, both the pen and the pencil absolutely fail, and I can only say that if we had no other sights to boast of, all our privations and fatigues would have been far more than repaid by ten minutes contemplation of the wonders that present themselves in this dwelling of the mighty Fingal-the stupendous cavern of Staffa. The island itself is by no means large; it is just such a one as a man might "carry home in his pocket, and give his son for an apple," yet it contains several other caverns, magnificent indeed, but all yielding in this respect to the boast of the island above described. The pillars on the outside of the cavern are also wonderfully striking, seated on which, while the Sun was now bright and warm, we enjoyed surprisingly the scenery around usthe golden waves, the skies without a cloud. Before leaving the cavern the sailors requested we would inscribe our names on its walls. This we attempted to do, though our station was far from appearing pleasantly secure, and though the waves were roaring in all their appalling majesty beneath us. Our friends eagerly watching every motion of the pen-knife, appeared wonderfully delighted with the operation, and shouted out the letters as soon as they were embodied. When this business was accomplished, we emerged, nothing loth, into the open day, and observed the crew now landed from the wherry approaching cautiously over the rocks. They join ed us, and we discovered that they were two Lairds, with some friends from England-a gamekeeper with a gun to fire in the cave, and a piper in proper costume, to make it resound to his music. One of these gentlemen, of a most venerable appearance, with long grey hair, was clad in the true fashion of his country, in the bonnet and kilt. With a long staff in his hand, he placed himself imposingly in a nitch of the island, of considerable elevation, and in this his lofty station, stood forth as the genius of the place. His appearance was most striking, and though I conclude he had an eye to effect, yet his every action appeared altogether void of affectation. His form was manly, yet his countenance had a 107 strong expression of melancholy, and his grey locks waved in the blast. We were sorry to see him quit his elevation, and descend to the level of more humble mortals. During this time I had entered into conversation with the other Laird of the party, who, plain in his manners and appearance, yet deported himself towards us with the utmost politeness. In the first place he informed us that his party had observed us in the squall, from which they were perfectly free, and had thought our situation extremely perilous. Accordingly he congratulated us most heartily on our escape. He was anxious to know what we thought of this boast of his country, and appeared much pleased with our unfeigned expressions of delight. Shortly after this the gun was fired, the sound reverberated magnificently through the rocks, and as it died away the piper commenced a pibrock. The effect altogether was very pleasing; our remote situation, the stupendous pillars,the Highlanders with their appropriate dresses and music, forcibly struck the imagination, and we almost fan. cied ourselves, by some magic spell, carried far back into the days of other years. -- When this ceremony was over, we were eager to depart; for the day wore, and we had yet to travel a considerable distance over the expanse of waters. We therefore bad adieu to our Highlanders, and about two o'clock resumed our seats in the boat. The day continued beautifully fine, and we looked forward with pleasure to the remainder of our voyage. The swell was considerable, but it imparted to our boat no unpleasant motion, and once more the waves foamed before our dark prow, and we bounded lightly over the world of waters. brought to under the consecrated shores of lona. Soon we At first landing we were beset by crowds of half-naked children, clamorously requesting us to purchase some of their Iona pebbles, which are of little value, but sometimes set in small seals or brooches. As soon as we had divested ourselves of these imps, we travelled on, under the direction of our boatmen, towards the venerable ruins, forming the chief or indeed only orna ments of the island. The way to these ancient piles was neglected and swampy, the little path discoverable nearly overgrown with weeds, or hid under heaps of loose lords of the creation. We strolled from our guides, who found occupation amongst their friends the islanders, and wandered as chance led under the shade of these consecrated arches. Our meditations there, though sombre, were far from unpleasant, and we would willingly have spent a much longer time than we now possibly could do, in the indulg ence of them. This little island, echoing to the waves of the Atlantic, so remote, and of such antiquity, necessarily inspires a soothing melancholy, and, though I had been astonished at the wonders of Staffa, I think I experienced far more pleasing emotions amongst the ruins of Iona. Under the direction of one of the principal inhabitants of the island, of the name of Lamont, we re-visited the different ruins in regular order. And first we came to the Chapel of St. Oran, one of the earliest dwellers in Iona whose name is handed down in history. Lamont related to us, at considerable length, and in exceeding good language, his tragical end,-how he was buried alive, and the Church dedicated to him; with divers other circumstances, exceedingly interesting, but too well known to need repetition. In this Chapel, I think, though the inside has been long exposed to the blasts of Heaven, as well as the profanation of the people, several tombs remain entire, as does also the font for holy water. On these tombs are carved, and not inelegantly, the figures at full length of the heroes who sleep beneath, with their various bearings and devices. The inscriptions too, in many of them, are distinct, but of so ancient a character, that a modern traveller finds himself puzzled to decypher them. We attempted to do this, and were greatly assisted by Lamont, who appeared to have a tolerable knowledge of the Latin language, in which they were composed. He had read much on the subject, and was equally learned in tradition. He gave us the names of the heroes in the most pleasing and unaffected manner, with many interesting though probably fabulous particulars relating to their fate-veris miscens falsa. This he was far from wishing to conceal, not unfrequently "I know not how the truth may be, Leaving the sacred roof of St. Oran, we returned once more into the open air, and found ourselves amongst the tombs of Kings,-several of Scottish, some of Norwegian and Irish, and one of French extraction. "Under this grave (continued Lamont) rests the once powerful chieftain M'Query, the tomb ornamented by his broad claymore and shield. This (said he) is the tomb of Macdonald, Lord of the Isles, and many a brave spoil did he bring home in that ship! At his interment were slaughtered 300 Scotch cows, and far from this place he pointed out to us his friends feasted over his grave." Not St. Martin's Cross, plain but venerable, and informed us that several others had once stood in its neighbourhood, some of which had remained entire till within a very few years. In the College Court is some curious carving, such as might be expected from the times in which it was executed. Amongst other figures were those of Adam and Eve, and one still more grotesque of Satan and an Archangel. The latter is represented weighing the soul of a sinner, for which the Arch-fiend is waiting apparently with the utmost impatience. Several other objects of curiosity did our guide point out to us, but our time was so short, and our boatmen so impatient, that we were unable to give them that attention which they so well merited. My narration even of the most striking is necessarily very imperfect: I "for my recollection falters, And, like a waxen image 'gainst a fire, Bears no impression of the thing it was." regret exceedingly the very limited time we were enabled to spend on Iona, for never did the contemplation of any other spot, however interesting, afford the greater satisfaction. Lamont accompanied us to the water's edge, and took leave of us with the greatest politeness; and after, at his desire, presenting him with our cards, we gave him a hearty shake of the hand, which, as we were stepping into the boat, he returned with much cordiality, and we parted mutually pleased. The offering our hands seem ed wonderfully to confirm the favour able impression we had made. We discussed our repast, and a glass of whisky on board, and as the even. ing, though fine, was somewhat cold, wrapped ourselves up right comfortably in blankets and great coats, and enjoy ed surprisingly the scenery around us. A gentle gale swelled out our canvass, and we proceeded pleasantly, though at no great rate. The boatmen, after their meal, threw them. selves down carelessly in different parts of the vessel, and their fancies seemed to have been wonderfully elevated by the whisky, and they chatted, sung, and laughed with the greatest vivacity. We could not indeed understand them, for theirs appeared to us a sort of chough's language, "gabble enough, and good enough," yet we did not fail to derive much satisfaction from their witticisnis, which were enlivening and somewhat practical. One indeed upderstood and spoke English tolerably well, and he joined our party, while the other three were most bountiful of their jokes amongst themselves. Now it was that he confessed our situation had been extremely perilous in the morning, and complimented us upon the self-command and coolness we had displayed in the midst of it. At this time the scenery around us was wonderfully splendid. We were gliding smoothly over the undulating bosom of the Atlantic, surrounded by rocks and islands famed in song. Evening was preparing to cast her dim mantle over all things; the sun was sinking gradually in his watery bed, throwing a dazzling and golden light over the gently rippling waters. The clouds, tinged by its departing beams, displayed the most fantastic shapes, and appeared to figure out to us the wrathful heroes of other years, meeting dreadfully in the combat, or encouraging their fleet hounds in the chase. Little imagination was necessary to picture out these and divers other strange appearances in Heaven's wide canopy. Indeed the night was so transcendantly magnificent, that it did not fail at the time to call forth our greatest admiration. Suddenly the great luminary sunk beneath the wave, and twilight gave to the objects around beauties which they had failed to exhibit in the more vertical glare of his beams. In the full enjoyment of all this splendour, we had unconsciously sunk into silence, our eyes directed towards 109 the still glittering west. At length our crew gradually raised the song, and once more we "listened to the breeze of night, to hear the voice of the rowers, to hear the song of the sea." Many were the tunes which they chaunted, but their voices were inferior to those of our first party. They were harsh, their songs rather boisterous than plaintive; apparently drinking songs, rather than, as in the first case, the lamentations of ill-starred lovers: and though we listened to them with pleasure, they failed to give us that satisfaction which we had experienced from the more musical and pathetic strains which had fallen so gently on our ears while sailing swiftly by the now dilapidated turrets of the once powerful Castle Duart. These men beat the time vio lently with their hands; their whole appearance, and all their gestures, being perfectly savage and bestial. I know not what might be the subject of their songs, but they refused to begin them till they were assured that we knew nothing of Gaelic. It was probably some joke against ourselves or our country, for they laughed much and loudly, though at the same time they did us the favour carefully to assure us that their songs only meant that "they would bring the Englishman safe home again," and protect him from all the danger of the seas." Complete darkness now surrounded us, and once again the seas sparkled round our boat of night, highly beautiful indeed, but with a brilliancy very inferior to that displayed on a former occasion. Perhaps too we now derived less pleasure from their appearance, as well as from the songs, because they had each ceased to possess that most powerful of all charms-novelty. We sighed for our inn at Ulva, and as the wind had now almost entirely died away, our sailors again took to their oars, regulating their labours by the song. They pulled manfully, and after an interval somewhat tedious, we re-landed on our wished-for island, a little before eleven. A SUBSCRIBER. poverished and needy Peerage is indisputably an object worthy the attention of a wise Minister. The constituent members of the Upper House have been vastly increased in number during the two past reigns; and fears are entertained lest they should become too numerous either for the maintenance of their own respectability and dignity, for the welfare of Government, or even the safety of the State. That such evils have arisen from a profuse disposal of peerages is matter of experience. The first is at this day exemplified on some parts of the continent; where, from the general diffusion of titles, they have in a great measure ceased to distinguish rank, and rather appear to be indiscriminately sprinkled as nicknames throughout all the grades of society. The inconvenience to the Government of a numerous dependent nobility is manifest; families once raised above the sphere in which fortunes are to be made by personal exertion, hang about the Sovereign and the Minister for support; and, too many to be all relieved, they become disappointed and discontented. Upon this the State and Constitution are endangered. It is a popular cause for alarm that the Peerage should be at the beck of a Minister; but, beyond this, the unsatisfied portion of a needy aristocracy become the leaders of faction and sedition. England has already suffered in this way. Elizabeth, whom history deems one of our wisest sovereigns, and who at tached to herself the most devoted servants, as well as attained the greatest popularity, was yet the most sparing of ber honours. She found herself better served by the expectant than by the ungrateful or the disappointed. Her successor James, naturally more liberal in his disposition, was tempted by successive bad counsellors and by his necessities to an opposite extreme. The colonization of Ulster (in itself a wise measure) was the original plea for the sale of his new order of Baronetcies. It led him to allow of a similar disposal of Peerages; and to disgrace that prerogative of which he was in theory so jealous, by allowing its honours to be at the command of the highest bidder. The profit was conferred on some greedy courtier, who made the most of his turn; and doubtless the King imagined that he thus obliged two parties at once. In that he was quite mistaken; the individual who had purchased his stalking-horse of the broker in the market, acknowledged no obligation to its breeder; and many purchasers found cause of offence in subsequent creations, where others had cheaper bargains than themselves. It is to these circumstances we may in a great degree attribute the numerous titled names seen opposed to the Crown, the fountain of their honours, at the Rebellion. Charles, during his troubles, erred in a similar manner, though less wantonly: in reward to his faithfal adherents, he had little but titles to bestow. Originally, perhaps, of low fortune, and drained lower during their persecutions, many of the parties thus raised left their families by no means in a condition to support their rank. Sir Edward Walker, Garter (whose essay on the subject is most pertinently quoted in the Appendix to the present pamphlet) thus remarks upon them: "To speak a little of the many titles of honour given by the late King [Charles the First] during the Rebellion. Although much may be said for the doing of it, yet I fear, considering the small fortunes many of them have for to support their dignities, and the great pretensions they have, his Majes ty, when it shall please God to restore him, [this was written at the Hague in 1658-4] will find trouble enough to content them. Whereas, had his late Majesty been pleased to have made them Bannerets, or otherwise personally gratified them, their posterities had stood upon their own merits for the future; whereas now they will have place and voice in Parliament, and (being but men,) may prove as discontented as others that had as great obligations, and yet proved ungrateful." It is in favour of such personal in *The price of a Barony had been 10,000l., when the profligate Buckingham thus audaciously wrote to the King: "Here is a gentleman called Sir Francis Leake, who hath likewise A PHILOSOPHER'S STONE. 'Tis worth but eight thousand; he will give it me, if you will make him a Baron." The King obliged his favourite, at the expense of his own credit. In the same mode of depreciation, Sir John Holles, having given 10,000l. for the Barony of Houghton, was made Earl of Clare for 5000l. more, although the price of an Earldom had a few years before been 30,000. But our readers will find an assemblage of notices of those venal prostitutions of the Royal prerogative, in a review of Nichols's " Progresses of King James the First," in our vol. xcvi. i. 151. And that the House of Peers may not languish for want of an infusion of fresh talent-particularly legal talent, which as a court of judicature it so greatly requires it is proposed that peerages should be created for life. That this arrangement would be consistent both with law and precedent is fully shown by the author. For the law, the highest authorities are quoted, and none are found to dispute it. Of precedents two lists are given, one of various early peerages created for life only, (and with female instances extending down to the reign of George the Second); and the other of those created with every variety of arbitrary remainder, showing that the Crown, as the creator of the title, may arrange the remainder in any manner it may judge proper. The very two last instances are that of the Earldom of Norbury in 1827, limited to the second son in exclusion of the eldest; and that of Viscountess Canning in 1828, with remainder not indifferently to her own male issue, but to those only she had by her late husband. 66 The legality" of the proposed measure is thus briefly ascertertained. The important reasons for the "propriety" of its adoption we have already incidentally noticed, and may be summed up as follow: 111 1. To prevent the parties inheriting peerages to be hereafter conferred, becoming, through want of means, either disgraceful to themselves, or injurious to other branches of the community. 2. To reward distinguished merit, without the necessity of incurring that danger; and 3. That the House of Lords may profit by individual talent, and in particular be supplied with those various descriptions of legal talents and acquirements which it so much requires; by giving the judges of the several courts personal seats and votes, but without the privilege of transmitting them to posterity. With regard to our present law Lords, the author mentions these facts: that many causes in the House of Lords are appeals from the Lord Chancellor in one place to the same Chancellor, unassisted, in another; that though the opinions of the Judges are at the command of the House, they have no right to give them except when asked, which being seldom done, they are not accustomed to attend; that Scotch appeals are now decided by English lawyers alone, who cannot be expected to be intimately acquainted with the peculiarities of the laws of Scotland; that the claims to Peerages, which are discussed before the House of Lords alone, offer a field for legal investigation (involving the constitution of the House itself,*) which has become almost deserted since the death of Lord Redesdale; and, finally, that "cases are also every day occurring-divorces for example-in which the assistance of civilians is desirable; but the only noble Lord who is eminent for his knowledge of the civil law has attained an age which precludes the possibility of even occasional attendance in Parliament." It is further remarked that the modern practice has been "to raise a Judge to the Peerage when his infirmities oblige him to retire from his own Court; as if by transplanting him to an aristocratic soil, health would necessarily be * In p. 62 we find the following allusion to the singular claim of Colonel Berkeley to a seat in the House, as Lord of Berkeley Castle per Baroniam: "There is at this moment a claim before the House, which, if admitted, will give to the possessors of all lands which five centuries ago were held of the Crown by a certain tenure, a right to the Peerage, with precedency over two-thirds of the Barons of the country. Many hundred instances exist of lands being once held by this tenure, the owners of which will have the same right as the present claimant: and, as each of them can, like himself, transfer those lands to any other person at his pleasure, Peerages, unless the Legislature interposes, may be sold to the best bidder." |