of Pehuenches, which consisted of some hundreds, had reduced to ashes on their return. Only a few men, conficome from Antuco to Yumbel, to receive the customary dent in the flectness of their steeds, resolved to wait till the presents of the republic, previously to the commencement last moment and not follow their families till the bloodof a new expedition against Pincheira, and had been enter- thirsty horde had actually made their appearance. It tained at the public expense with a drinking-bout, which seemed more advisable to imitate their example, than to go lasted two days. No confidence however can be placed in back all the way to Yumbel. Under cover of a neighsuch allies, on which account the inhabitants of Yumbel bouring wood, we succeeded in getting off our mules and were under arms, and a detachment of the small army baggage, and I was fortunate enough to obtain a fresh had been stationed here. As soon as the money had been horse. The Chilians encamped in the centre of the village paid down, and all the wine drunk, the savage horde took-for none ventured to remain in their dwellings, where their departure. they could not so soon be aware of the approaching danger. "Yumbel is one of the oldest of the Spanish settlements, It was indeed a melancholy encampment-little was said, and is mentioned by Ercilla. As a fortified place, it is one and the cheerful guitar was for once laid aside—the peaof the chain of forts by which the Spanish government sants sat in gloomy despondency round the small watchfire, endeavoured to protect the country against the predatory the reflection of which showed, in their careworn features, attacks of the savages, after all the white colonies in the the traces of the misery which this destructive war has for Country of the Indians had been destroyed, and a barrier many years inflicted on all the inhabitants of the frontiers. became absolutely necessary. Situate at the commence- The midnight stillness was suddenly broken by a dismal ment of a wide plain, it does not seem calculated to arrest song, in a harsh voice, which was succeeded by an exthe progress of an enemy; but the Indians, it appears, pressive silence. At a short distance from us there was an never leave a fort on the flank or in their rear. encampment of about twenty Pehuenches, who had hither"At noon the houses were filled with provisions, which to remained unobserved. Near the fire, and supported were sent to us from all quarters, though every visiter against the old trunk of a weeping mayte, reclined a capbrought presents of poultry, eggs, and fruit. However, tive Indian, painted with white streaks, which had been this abundance was not unwelcome, for the caciques of the traced upon his dark skin with horrid fidelity, in imitation Pehuenches likewise paid us a visit, and their assurance of of a human skeleton. The rest were seated in a circle in continued friendship and faithful protection, while we re-gloomy silence; with their horses ready saddled behind mained on the frontiers, was well worth a liberal distribu- them, and their long lances fixed in the ground by their tion of our stores. The borachios were concealed by the side. The prisoner re-commenced his song, but none readvice of the Chilians, and if anything might have dis-plied, for it was his farewell to lfe-his death-song—as he pleased our brown guests, it was the caution that was ob- had been doomed to die the next morning by the hand of served in the distribution of a considerable quantity of his guards. During a fit of intoxication he had killed a brandy. They left us towards evening, with the peculiar member of another family, and, being the last descendant savage howl, without which they neither take the field nor of an extirpated race, and too poor to pay the fine in arms set out on a journey. The inhabitants of Yumbel urged and cattle, his life was irrecoverably forfeited to the venus to proceed to the frontier of the Andes. The circum-geance of the relations, according to the inexorable laws of stances were not very inviting, for many fugitive families this people. I left the camp of these Indians, whose vihad arrived, and the warlike spirit and common hatred of cinity could only excite unpleasant feelings; and ascended the Indians to their white neighbours had already been a hill which rose close to the unfortunate village. Here, manifested in no equivocal manner. The southern fron-on a level rock, I watched for some time, holding the ticr was defenceless, and though the Chilian army was as-reigns of my horse in one hand and my gun in the other, sembling about Chilian, such a spirit prevailed in it, that as we might every instant expect the dreaded attack.— it was likely to march to Santiago, in order to effect a new About midnight, the wind bore along the distant sound of revolution, as to turn against the Indians. Such conflict- the trampling of horses, followed by loud yells, and, in a ing reports had been spread for some months that it seemed useless to pay any regard to them. The journey could not be delayed, and though the danger was great, yet I could not but be tempted by the hope of a rich reward in the extraordinary regions of the loftiest Andes. A naturalist who, in travelling in the interior of South America, would suffer himself to be deterred by the probability of danger, would, in fact, have a very narrow field for his exertions."

moment, the whole village was in motion. The Chilians and Indians fled into the dark woods,—but the war-cries soon announced them to be allied Pchuenches, who belonged to the troop that had left Yumbel on the preceding day, and who brought good tidings. The watch fires instantly blazed up, and all thronged round the messengers, who reported with wild gestures that they had unexpectedly come upon the approaching Moluches, whom they had defeated, and that they were now hastening to Chilian to “Late in the evening we reached the end of the dreary spread the news of victory and receive the customary plain of Antuco, and suddenly found ourselves in a fertile presents. In confirmation of their statement, they rolled spot overgrown with high grass. The moon had risen along at our feet some bloody heads, whose savage features above the snowy plains of the Andes; the streams of lava fixed in death had a most terrific appearance. The horrid shone brilliantly on the shady side of the volcano; and all trophies were received with a loud yell of joy-the Chiwas still, till the noise of a great multitude made us all at lians collected their concealed property, and a disgusting once aware that we were in the vicinity of Tucapel and bacchanal ensued. Sick at heart from the repeated sight indicated that some unusual event had taken place there. of these cruelties, I retired into the wood; the exhaustion In fact we found the inhabitants in the utmost despair, as both of mind and body rendered any convenient resting they were in momentary expectation of an attack from the place superfluous, and I sought in the arms of sleep formarauding tribe of the Moluches, who were said to have getfulness of the events of the past day." advanced as far as the upper Biobio-women and children were lamenting, while the men were hastily loading their The defeat of the Moluches had probably enhorses with their little property, to seek safety in flight, sured the safety of the country for some weeks though with the certain prospect of finding their village to come, and the travellers proceeded on their

jurney, after having been so fortunate as to pro- for while danger was everywhere approaching, and the hoscure a supply of provisions, which they should tile bands were within a few miles of us, circumstances want during their stay in Autuco for the sum-apparently accidental induced them to turn back, and the little vilage of Antuco was this year happily spared.

mer.

"The valley of Antuco, which comprehends the highest "The inhabitants of Antuco were in a state of general point of the Southern Andes, extends from east to west, is consternation, and had been through the summer in a sus-about seven leagues long, not very broad in any part, and pense which made their state truly pitiable. Being situ- divided into two very nearly equal portions by the river ated on the extreme frontier, destitute of any public de- Laya. At its lower extremity it is separated by a chain fenec, they saw themselves exposed to the formidable at- of hills from the plain of Yumbel and Los Angelos; totacks of the large predatory hordes, which, under the con-wards the east it rises abruptly, contracts, and is in this diduct of the brothers Pincheira, were spreading inconceiva-rection almost entirely enclosed by the broad base of the ble desolation, at one time in the Pampas of Buenos Ayres, volcano, there being barely space between it and the oppoand then in the fertile plains of the beautiful Chili. How-site ridge for a rapid stream and a narrow defile which ever scanty the property, it was sufficient to allure these leads into the country of the Indians. Many parts of the ruthless hordes; but this loss was not to be compared to soil are not worth cultivating, as it is covered with volcanic the slaughter of their victims, and the cruel slavery to which rock, and resembles the dry bed of a river; but the sides the women and children, whose lives alone they spared, of the mountains, and the plains at their foot, answer their were condemned. No one could tell what blood-thirsty high reputation for extraordinary fertility. In some places bands were concealed in the uninhabited Cordillera on the they exhibit terraces one above another, and present natural other side of the volcano, and from the uudefended defiles meadows in the midst of beautiful mountain-woods, where there might pour down, at any time, torrents of brown In- the most luxuriant vegetation proves the richness of the dians, and brutalized white criminals, who, as leaders of soil; streams everywhere rush down from the mountains, the hordes, by their malice, calculating cruelty and thirst and above their verdant summits tower the lofty peaks of revenge, aggravated in the most frightful manner the covered with everlasting snow. In the immediate vicinity danger arising from the mere love of pillage of the In- of the village, the mountains are so high that it takes several dians. The country-people carefully concealed their little hours to ascend the bold rocky summit of the Pico de Pilproperty in the woods, and were obliged to observe two-que. Still further up the valley, their colossal height infold caution when the moon was getting to the full; for at ercases, till the intended glacier of the Silla Veluda and that season they were more liable to an attack from the In- the black cone of the volcano close the wonderful picdians. Every evening they were obliged to leave their ture. The village itself has a most picturesque appearance, wretched huts, and pass the night on some neighbouring for it leans against a lofty ridge, which is crested with a mountain, which was inaccessible to horsemen; and it was magnificent forest of beech trees. There is an indescribable melancholy to see the procession of women, laden with pleasure in botanizing on a bright morning in summer on heavy burdens, and leading their children by the hand, as these trackless heights: the endless variety of beautiful cend the steep rocky wall, uncertain whether the morning Alpine plants fills the botanist with enthusiasm; the sun might not rise over the smoking ruins of their peace- majestic prospect of the snow-crowned Andes refreshes the ful village. The inconsiderable garrison was unable to eye of the wearied traveller, who reposes beneath the defend the place, and, when threatened by danger, shut shades of trees of extraordinary size; and the atmosphere itself up in a small wooden fortress; and the height of has a purity which seems to render him more capable of summer, and consequently of their danger, also, was enjoying the pleasures of life and despising its dangers. close at hand before the government did any thing for their But the most splendid and ever-novel object in the landprotection. Quite defenceless, and abandoned to all the scape is the volcano, which is a few leagues from the village, horrors of an attack from lawless banditti and Indians, the and, not being concealed by any of the smaller hills by people of Antuco were a prey to perpetual terror; and the which it is surrounded, is perpetually in sight. We frequent reports, and false alarms, embittered their existence are never weary of observing the various phenomena to a degree which it is impossible for a European to con- which it presents, sometimes occasioned by the maniccive, who lives under the powerful protection of the laws, fold refraction of light, at others by the mighty conand knows these dangers only from hearsay. My occupa- vulsions which agitate its interior. Sometimes a thick tions did not permit me to make thesc nocturnal migrations, volume of smoke issues from its crater, like an enormous and nothing remained for me but a vigorous self-defence in black column, which by an inconceivable force is impelled case of an attack. My house being open on every side, with greater rapidity than a cannon-ball into the blue sky; and, being covered with tiles, could not easily be set on fire; at others, a small white cloud gently curls upwards out of we made embrasures in the walls, enclosed them with a light the crater, with scarcely any preceptible motion, which inpalisade, and, to our stock of ready loaded pistols the kind dicates the tranquillity that prevails within. At any time attentions of the general of the southern army added a of the day, the appearance of this mountain is new and dozen muskets and a box of cartridges. The Indian will varied, but it is most interesting when the sun is rising not easily venture an attack where he expects a resolute behind it, and illumines its well-defined outline, or when en. defence; and, as two peasants, who were acquainted with veloped in the radiance of the evening sun, long after it has the use of fire-arms, were ready to pass the night in our left Antuco in the shade. Even amid the storms which little fortress, and preferred fighting to an uncertain safety are often spread round its base, while the sky in the lower in flight, our garrison increased to four men, who under valley is serene and untroubled, it sill remains grand and such circumstances would probably have been able to defend beautiful.

themselves during the few hours that an attack generally "At night, when shrouded with thick clouds, it is renderlasts. In times of particular danger, we kept alternate ed visible by the brilliant fire which constantly issues from watch during the night; that, if apprized of their approach its mouth, and which seems to penetrate the lower strata of by the trampling of the enemy's horses, we might have the atmosphere. The heat of summer, indeed, dissolves the time to take our posts. Providence, however, protected us, snowy mantle with which winter has invested it, but a passing

storm, which never extends to the lower grounds covers it to the women, descends into the plains, and often extends even in the warm month of January, with a sheet of his destructive excursions to the very gates of Buenos silver. We are never tired of watching the moment when Ayres, where he is better known by the name of the Indian the departing daylight renders the glowing streams of lava of the Pampas."

visible. A solitary speck of fiery red begins to sparkle; The author gives minute details of their mode it is followed by others, and suddenly the light, like a of life, which resembles that of other nomade running fire, communicates to the long streams, which, in tribes, and especially in Northern Asia. Their some places singly, and in others variously intersected, manners are like those of most savage people. carry down from the crater to the base new masses of lava, The women are treated like slaves, and frequently which continue their brilliant career till they are eclipsed by with much cruelty. The Pehuenches are althe more powerful light of the morning sun. In the ways at war with one or other of the neighbourmonths of November and December, when the air is quite ing tribes. They consider it as the greatest free from the dry fog, we sometimes enjoy a very rare but proof of military skill to attack the enemy in truly magical spectacle. When a passing storm has cover- some unguarded point, to penetrate into the ed the volcano with fresh and pure snow, and the moon open country, and to inflict upon the people all happens to be at the full, we observe at the sides of the the horrors of an Indian war. They manage to cone, a four-fold light, in the most wonderful play of arrive by night near the frontier place which colours. While the moon is still low in the horizon, and, they have doomed to destruction. As soon as hid behind the mountain, strongly marks the outlines of morning dawns, they rush tumultuously, and its snow-capped summit, and the extreme point is still with dreadful yells, into the defenceless village, tinged with the last beams of the setting sun, a calm and the inhabitants rarely have time to fly. The splendour rises majestically from its interior, and streams of scene of barbarity and destruction which then lava glow on the western side, which is enveloped in shade; begins baffles description. Whatever appears if at this instant light clouds cross over the summit, the to be of any value is seized, the rest destroyed, scene is such as no one would attempt to describe in words, the herds driven away, the men and youths and of which the greatest painter might despair of giving murdered without pity; the old women, though even a faint resemblance; for whatever grand effect the not killed, are barbarously treated; the younger light of the moon, of the reflection of the snow, of the women and girls carried away with little hope of volcanic-fire, and of the evening sun, can produce singly, ever seeing their country again. Lastly, they are here united in one magnificent and unequalled whole." set fire to the wrethed huts, and the fiend-like asDuring the author's residence at the village of sailants hastily retreat amid the flames, and over Antuco, which is not yet marked upon any map, the bloody carcases of their murdered victims. he made many excursions in this hitherto un- Less than two hours are sufficient to commence visited Alpine country, in which, though there and finish this scene: they vanish as suddenly as was difficulty enough in penetrating through the they came, and the lamentations of the few inforest, you may at least set your foot to the habitants who have escaped alone bear witness ground without fear; for no poisonous serpent, to their descructive visit.

no gigantic stinging ants, no concealed enemy. "It is very seldom that these Indians take any prison. of the animal kingdom, inhabits this happy re-ers, and every one fights to the last moment, rather than gion. It would be useless to enumerate all the plants that extend to the highest summits of the expose himself to the more or less dreadful fate which may befall him, according to the humour of the victors. mountains. No one, he observes, could ever During my residence at Antuco, a military party, which imagine the Alpine Flora of Southern Chili to returned from the Southern Andes, had succeeded in capbe so beautiful to the eye, and so tempting to the turing a chief of the detested tribe of the Moluches. The connoisseur, as it really is. All the flowers of unfortunate prisoner was destined to be a victim to their the Cape of Good Hope and New Holland, vengeance, and the intervention of the Chilian commandwhich, without attaining the gigantic size of the ant, and the offer of considerable presents, had no influtropical climates, are extremely pleasing, are ence over the incensed Indians, who, impatiently waited happily united in the vegetation of this part of for the next morning. The prisoner looked forward to the Andes. his inevitable fate with that stupid indifference which has "The Indians, driven from their country, had settled nothing in common with the courage of the hero. The partly in the neighbourhood of Antuco, and partly in the man who, more than half degenerated, has never experimost remote lateral valleys. Though but a few under-enced the happiness of a softer feeling, resigns without stood some words of Spanish, the Araucanian dialect, emotion the cheerless boon of existence. The noise of which they use, was familiar to most of the country people the festival in honour of the triumph resounded throughand to my servant; and hence my intercourse with the out the night, and at daybreak a large circle of the men caciques was not interrupted. Prudence councelled us to and all the women assembled before the fort. The prisonseek the favour of these demi-savages, who might at any er stood in the centre of a smaller circle, composed of moment become our enemies, and, being a people whom twenty warriors, each armed with a long lance. Three no traveller has yet described, they deserved that attention: shallow pits had been dug at his feet, and a short stick the result of which I will here add. The Pehuenche is a was put into his hand. In a loud voice he related his nomade, differing therein very much from the Araucani- deeds, and named the enemies who had fallen by his hand; ans, who, however, like him belong to the same branch of and as he pronounced each name he broke off a piece of the great copper-coloured or Patagonian race of America. the stick, which he threw into one of the pits and conConstantly roaming about the Andes, he appears sometimes temptuously trampled under foot. The shouts of the inas a herdsman, with no property but his cattle-sometimes dignant hearers became louder and louder, and the women, as a bold robber, who in times of war leaves domestic cares transformed into furies, answered with yells and screams

to every new name. One lance after the other was low-ordinary care. Still further on, with a dreariness of aspect ered and pointed closer and closer at the breast of the which even surpasses that of the foreground, runs the low scornful enemy. The last piece of the stick was dropped; rocky outline which marks the former boundary of the the last and greatest of all the names was pronounced; and ocean. The towers of Lima, beyond which rises the at the same instant resounded from a hundred throats the gloomy ridge of the Andes, alone give some variety to fearful war-cry of the Chibotoo. Twenty lances pierced this uninviting landscape, which is not rendered more attracthe prisoner, who was lifted high into the air, and then fell tive when the sun pours down his rays from an unclouded sky. dead upon the ground." All the glowing splendour of a tropical firmament in vain, when it illumines only a soil which is adorned by no plant, refreshed by no stream, which has been condemned by Nature herself to everlasting sterility, which even human

industry cannot remedy, and where the appearance of a

ungrateful soil."

In peace the Pehuenches are hospitable to strangers, and always give a good reception_to their commercial friends; but they do not believe themselves bound to pay any regard to land bird is regarded as an event. The whole extent of those who are not recommended to them. They consider the robbery of a stranger, often accom-tains the same character with unchanging fidelity-only country which stretches towards the north and south repanied with murder, as honourable as Europeans where a scanty stream trickles down from the clefts of the do a war carried on according to the law of na-Andes and irrigates flat valleys, the thinly scattered intions. In trade they are honest, and disapprove habitants are able, with immense labour, to cultivate this of cowardly theft and cheating. When a caravan from the Isla de la Laxa arrived, after eight day's journey, in the land of the Pehuenches, it immediately repaired to the habitation of the most powerful cacique, who gave notice of it to his tribe. Those who had a mind to trade flocked from all the vallies, agreed upon price and took the goods with them. The day fixed for the departure of the Chilians was known, and there never was an instance that the debtors kept away or committed any fraud in their mode of payment.

the

"A general misfortune would be the drying up of the and scanty streamlet which is fed by the mountain snow, of which the very last drop is used for refreshing the stony fields. But we are scarcely out of the limits of this artificial irrigation which is necessarily confined to narrow with boulders, or with hills composed of a very light white stripes, when we are again upon the dreary waste, covered drift sand-where the traveller cannot obtain a glass of fresh water for several days together, and where owing to the frequent changes even the native guide sometimes loses From Antuco our traveller returned to the sea tillandsia are to be seen. his way. Only those singular succulent plants cactus and Such is the extreme aridity of coast. The scenery appeared to him very poor the soil, that after the lapse of three centuries we still find and prosaic after several months residence amidst the mummies of the ancient Peruvians in a state of perfect the magnificence of the Andes. He therefore re-preservation. They were interred in a sitting posture, and solved to embark in the first vessel for Peru, for which he had to wait some weeks. This time caused themselves to be buried alive in the sand upon the according to tradition are the remains of persons who was well employed in copying out his botanical journals, and in packing up his collection, of conquest of Peru by the Spaniards. The fog which hangs which he kept duplicates, to be sent by a differ-ficial, and though at the most it attaches itself as a fine for six months over the country is considered very beneent ship, not choosing unnecessarily to trust the mist to woollen clothing, the Limanese call it aquaceros, a fruits of such a summer to a single vessel. torrent. If the tropical sun poured down its rays upon Though, during his stay in the desolate and de- Peru with the same unclouded lustre as on the splendid populated town of Concepcion, he often reflected Brazil, the thirsty land would long since have been convertwith regret on the verdant plains and airy ed into a desert, unfit for the habitation of man or of animountains of Antuco, he found a compensation mals. But a heavy rain would be no less a national misin the company of Mr. Henry Rous, the British fortune, for its long continuance would inevitably destroy Consul, a very well informed man, who treated him with every mark of kindness and friendship. the most part, composed of reeds. If in the course of a even the largest houses in Lima; the roofs of which are, for He sailed on the 29th of May, 1839, for Callao, on man's life such an event as a real fall of rain happens to board the English brig Catherine, the captain of take place on the coast of Peru, it produces an indescribawhich trusting to his local knowledge ventured ble sensation. Processions parade the streets to implore to pass through the Bocachica of Talcahuano; the protection of Heaven for their endangered city, and and he reached without accident the harbour of Callao, not much pleased with the barren and Even with the utmost industry of the inhabitants, a country the remembrance of such a misfortune is long preserved. desolate appearance of the Peruvian coast. like this would be unable to maintain any considerable po"A flat country, gently rising towards the interior, is pulation, if there were not in its territory some more fertile bounded by a whitish streak of sand along the coast, on district, from which it may supply its wants by mutual exwhich is situated the brown and inhospitable-looking port change. The Andes of Peru almost entirely support the of Callao. As far as the eye can reach from this point of inhabitants of the coast; for, though their mean height view, there is not a tree to enliven the dreary and stony far exceeds that of the Chilian Cordilleras, they contain surface, not a scanty path of even the lowest kind of vege- valleys or plateaux, which, in spite of their vicinity to the tation to indicate the vicinity of water, without a constant region of eternal snow, enjoy a moderate climate, and are supply of which nothing flourishes here except succulent very fertile. These are eagerly sought as an abode, essaline plants, or low and thorny shrubs, which at a dis- pecially by the Indians, the degenerate descendants of those tance have the appearance of small yellow patches. Round mild and unwarlike people who once obeyed the sceptre of the little village of Bellavista are extensive tracts of dry the Incas. There is a great variety of elimate in the gravel, interrupted here and there by reeds and a few other Andes, and the number of objects cultivated there might plants, which are cherished by the inhabitants with extra-be still further increased; for many useful, hitherto un

known plants might be naturalized, if care were taken to nounce many privileges than share them with the despised ascertain the locality and the relative proportions of atmos- lower castes, for whom they entertain a traditional hatred pheric heat which they require, previously to their being the dissatisfaction of a large party, who forfeited the trensplanted. But the most beautiful part of the country, highest object of the happiness of the white Peruvians, in which a thousand sources of future wealth are still titles and orders, by the republican equalization-military buried, commences on the eastern declivity of the second oppression-poverty-increasing demoralization and weakchain of the Andes. Here are plains traversed by lower ness in the government, these have hitherto been in Peru hills, covered with an occan of foliage, vying in beauty only perceptible consequences of its separation from the with the climate of Chili, but far surpassing it in the abund- mother country. Whatever the blessings of freedom, ance and luxuriance of its productions. To these join, which the rest of the Americans, and especially the people within the extensive frontiers, those boundless plains, where of Chili, are really beginning to enjoy, it is known to the gigantic rivers, which roll their broad waves through soli- Peruvian only from the paltry rhymes of his patriotic songs. tary forests, are the only means of communication between The Revolution has overtaken him before he was ripe for the widely scattered dwellings of a very scanty population." it, and the moral immaturity of his whole life makes it Lima has suffered much from the Revolution, order from the ruins of a general dissolution." difficult to foresee what generation will at length create new besides losing the monopoly of a considerable trade with Chili and Upper Peru, of which the author gives some interesting particulars. He thus proceeds:

When the author embarked for Peru, he intended to visit Guayaquil, and to make a long stay in Choro and Esmeraldas, but, on his arrival at Lima, he "The Revolution affected Lima also in another way. A Peru have little to engage the naturalist, to refound this to be impracticable. As the coasts of great number of people were suddenly deprived of the turn to Chili did not appear to be of much use, means of subsistence, when political animosity had banished and a voyage to the East Indies was necessarily the most opulent nobles, or compelled them to live in re. tirement. They had given employment to many artists interior of Peru appeared to offer the only asyrenounced from pecuniary considerations: the and mechanics, who were engaged exclusively on works lum, where he might continue his old avocations of luxury; and from this period too may be dated the de.without interruption, and at a small expense. cline of many branches of manufacture, which were for. It is difficult in America to obtain information merly carried to great perfection; for instance, very fine embossed work in gold and silver, at Guamanga and Lima, respecting distant provinces, even of the same state. Mr. J. F. Scholtz, however, the head of Many private fortunes were lost during the intrigues, for one of the greatest houses on the west coast of which the political state of the country afforded many op- America, gave him the most friendly aid. portunities. The persecutions and the legal confiscations, the heavy taxes, and, above all, the incapacity of a people "And if," says he, "contrary to the express wish of this addicted to luxury and pleasure to conform to the pressure from a sense of the gratitude which he amply deserves, as worthy German, his name is here publicly mentioned, it is of the times by judicious retrenchments,-have immensely diminished the national wealth. Tinsel splendour indeed the promoter of a difficult enterprise, and as the protector still prevails everywhere in Lima, though poverty and de-of a traveller, who, without recommendation from any cline are but too evident in both domestic and public ar- government, and without any official character, comrangements. The times are now gone by when a Limanese menced his long journey. To him I am indebted for the lady of the higher rank was obliged, on gala days, to wear permission to visit the Amazons, which is very difficult to pearls and jewels to the value of more than thirty thou-be obtained. He afterwards liberated me from an imprisand dollars, in order to maintain her rank; and the riches sonment, by which it was hoped to debar me from all furwhich are described with so much astonishment by the ther research; and, lastly, procured me many agreeable very credible Ulloa have disappeared with the exhaustion of hours in the solitary wilderness of Maynas, by furnishing its sources. It would be impossible for them now, as they me with letters and other supplies. Mr. Sebastian Maronce did, to pave a street with bars of silver, to give a new tins, an Anglo-Portuguese, the proprietor of large estates viceroy an idea of the treasures of the country, or to shew on the Huallaga, spoke in high terms of that country, and their mules with silver. Nevertheless, luxury is still very The bare mention of these names, celebrated for the reinvited me to make a long stay in Cassapi or Cuchero. prevalent: and hence, after a short stay, we form no very searches of the Spanish botamists, Ruiz, Pavon, and Tafavourable opinion of the domestic arrangements of Peruvian families. Creoles of all countries have the weakness falla, made me decide in a moment. The projected visit to to attach much importance to outward splendour, and even the Cinchona forests of Huanuco, the navigation of the rathe Peruvian Andes was changed to a long residence in the English in the West Indics are not altogether exempt

from this failing. But in Peru this has been carried to the pid Huallaga, and a voyage across the whole breadth of the utmost excess, in consequence of the unhappy predomi- continent upon the majestic Amazons." nance of the coloured races and the inbred effeminacy of We would most willingly dwell at some length the Whites. The contest for pre-eminence betrays the dif. on this part of the author's journey, but the ferent castes into the most boundless extravagance-a pro-space allotted to us will allow only some extracts pensity which commerce enables them to gratify, as every to which we confine ourselves with the less reship imports some new article of luxury, which they ea- gret, as we cannot but hope that a work of such gerly purchase, and then, like children, throw aside. The importance will appear in an English translation. far celebrated women of Lima are said to exceed all limits "A few leagues from Diezmo are the ruins of an anin this respect, and thus revenge themselves on their fa- cient city of the Incas, of considerable extent. They octhers and husbands, who, if such a feature were wanting to cupy the north eastern angle of the plain, separated by a complete the picture of mismanagement, are the most pas- low and stormy chain of hills from the Pampa de Cochasionate gamblers in America. marca, which is about five leagues broad. The road passes

"The discontent of the Whites, who would rather re-through it, and, long before our approach, we beheld with