his house by knocking his neighbor's down,' and consequently has knowingly distorted the facts. Such being the case, it would be folly to attempt a scientific refutation of such baseless assertions. Beside :

'Le jeu ne vaut pas la chandelle.'

I will however give him, and the croakers against the French style of cooking, one single shot, in the shape of a receipt for Un Rôti sans pareil,' which is taken from the celebrated Almanach des Gourmands,' written by the greatest epicure of any age, GRIMOD DE LA REYNIERE. Hear him:

'STUFF a fine large olive with capers and filets d'anchois, and

'Place it inside a delicate Bec-Figue, (a small bird,) from which you cut the head and feet, and — Enclose it in the body of a fine plump ortolan, which you truss neatly, and

'Insert in the body of a fat mauviette, (a lark,) from which yon cut not ouly the head and feet, but also dissect the principal bones; then cover it with a thin slice of lard, and —

Put it into the body of a grive, (thrush,) which you must also dissect and prepare in the same manner, and—

Stuff inside a fat and juicy caille, (quail,) a wild one in preference to a tame one;

Then enclose your caille, which you should cover with a vine-leaf, as a coat-of-arms to show its nobility, in the body of a vanneau, (lapwing.) which is boned and trussed to enable it to be

Inserted into the body of a pluierdoré, (golden plover,) which in its turn is covered with lard, and

Enclosed in a young woodcock, as tender and as plump as Mademoiselle VOLNAIS, (a celebrated actress of those days,) and quite as well kept. Having first rolled it in grated bread crumbs, you

then

Place it in the body of a teal, which is neatly trussed and prepared, and then 'Put into a guinea-hen, which you secrete in the body of a young

Wild-duck. Enclose your duck inside a chicken, which should be as white as Madame BELMONT, as plump as Mademoiselle de VIENNE, and as fat as Mademoiselle CONTAT, but not quite so large. (These ladies are celebrated actresses and danseuses.)

Your chicken with its many amiable qualities should then be concealed inside of a young phea sant, chosen with care, and preserved until it has obtained the requisite degree of haut gout, without which it is not fit to be placed before a gourmand;' you then

'Place it in the body of a young tender and fat goose, wild of course, which is hidden from vulgar gaze by being placed in the body of a very fine hen turkey, which should be as white and as plump as Mulle. ARSENE:

And last of all, place your turkey in the body of an Outarde (a species of wild turkey or goose) and fill the interstices with Lucca Chestnuts, force meat, and a savory stuffing.

Having thus prepared your roast, put it into a pot sufficiently large, with onions piques with cloves, carrots, chopped ham, celery, a bouquet of thyme and parsley, mignonette, several slices of fat pork well salted. Pepper, salt, fine spices, coriander, and one or two sprigs of garlic. Then seal this pot hermetically with a strip of paste or clay and place it on a slow fire where the heat will penetrate it gradually, and let it remain twenty-four hours. Then uncover it; 'degraissez' it, if necessary, and serve on a hot plate.

It is easy to imagine that the juices of so many different fowls amalgamated thoroughly by this slow process of cooking, and their different principles be coming so identified each with the other by this close connection, would give to this unequalled dish a most wonderful flavor in which you have combined the quintessence of the plain, the forest, the marsh, and the barn-yard.'

And all this is to be done in a country celebrated for the wretchedness of its food! Perhaps Mr. SHerry-Cobbler' can name for me a season during which the Baltimoreans will be enabled to produce an equal variety. Perhaps he can; but until he does, he will pardon me if I dare to disagree with him in his opinion of France, 'La Belle France,' being such a 'GoD-forgotten country' as he would have us believe.

Let me not be understood, however, as being desirous of finding fault with Baltimore and its gastronomical treasures. (May Heaven avert such a calamity!) On the contrary, she is entitled to all my respect and veneration, not only for her canvass-back ducks, her fine oysters, and her beautiful celery, to say nothing of her pretty girls and hospitable citizens; but she happens to be the spot where I was born. Nor do I censure him for his extravagant praise of the good things he gets at Guy's, for to my certain knowledge, there is no place in this country where the dainties of the latitude are served with so much care and taste; plain to be sure, and all the better perhaps for that, but always carefully cooked and good. But I do object' to his wholesale denunciation of a country which has been from time immemorial,

'the Paradise of Gourmands,' and a science which ranks, in the opinion of allsensible men,' on a par with medicine! 'Wretchedness of the food' forsooth! Why let me tell you, my 'cobbler' friend, that in Paris the products of the four quarters of the globe are always to be had; and the time is not far distant when a canvassback duck will be less of a 'rara avis in Paris' than in many cities nearer home. 'I do object' also to his styling the generous and rich wines of the glorious Rhino acid tipple.' But, 'horror of horrors!' listen to his profanity:

'YET it was not that sherry there plenty was seen,

In beakers of crystal, or bottles so green!'

'Golden Sherry in green bottles! Chateau Margaux in a horse-bucket as soon! But what can be expected from a gourmand (?) who writes such poetry and makes assertions like the following:

Dear soul! he has gone to sleep! May he long enjoy his slumbers; and when next he awakens, let his first prayer be for the extension of his knowledge of 'Gastronomy and God's truth! Now let him slide,' and let us to dinner.

"As I was remarking when you interrupted me:' to expatiate on the merits of this dinner would be time lost. We may as well therefore plunge in medias res,' and let it speak for itself. There was no bill of fare shown, but as each dish was sent up, a very neat card, with the name and description of the dish on it, was handed to the presiding genius, who passed it round the table. There was therefore 'no stay of execution,' for each 'convive' took his portion of the present,' fearing the future' would not be so much to his taste. What their appetites and capabilities were, you may judge, when I tell you an anchorite would have starved on the remnants! 'But neighbor VERGES will be talking,' and I am again straying from my dinner. Now for it. As I am a little different from 'Guy,' and do sometimes 'defile my bill of fare, (which is a carte) with a French or a Frenchified name,' you will permit me to write it in a foreign slang :'

The wines used were from the best private stocks Philadelphia can boast of, and consisted principally of Madeiras, 'so old that you cannot count their years.' I am well aware that there are many bills of fare which to the ears of the groundlings' would sound far more musical. To them I have no answer to make; but 't is from the judicious few' that I expect my reward; and when they take into consideration the fact that this dinner was gotten up during lent, the very worst season of the year, they will be forced to allow this carte' a position in the front rank.'

6

J. M. S.

NATIONAL ACADEMY OF DESIGN: SECOND NOTICE. We resume our imperfect notice of some of the more prominent pictures in the National Academy; premising merely, that there are numbers of which we should be glad to speak, and of which we had intended to make mention, that we must pass wholly by; partly for the reason that we have not space, and partly because our readers in various and distant parts of the country will find little attraction in mere descriptions of paintings which they will have no opportunity of seeing. But to the exhibition: W. S. MOUNT, in Number 131, Recollections of Early Days, or Fishing Along Shore,' has given us a characteristic Long-Island south-side' scene; but full as it is of expression and character, it is very indifferently colored, especially the shadowless landscape. The amphibious negro-woman in the boat, however, is 'one of 'em, and no mistake;' and the boy and dog are well painted. Mr. MOUNT has several other pictures, but none so noteworthy as this. . . . Mr. OsGOOD's pictures (Numbers 144, 231, 229,) show great improvement upon those heretofore exhibited. One could wish however that he would not ransack theatrical wardrobes for his draperies. His pictures in this regard smack too strongly of the milliner's shop. . . . OCR old friend PAGE has three portraits in the exhibition, drawn in his usual style of excellence. We think he has mistaken the later tone of his coloring. We could hardly help saying, while looking upon Number 30, that if the subject were not 'blue' when he was sitting for his picture, it must have been painted by moonlight. Numbers 81 and 147 are less objectionable in this respect; or perhaps their position renders the peculiarity less apparent. The face of the lady is admirably natural and life-like, in every thing save the tone of color. . . Mr. J. T. PEELE is a new exhibitor, but we hope often to see his productions hereafter. His Girl and Rabbits,' Number 22, is a most pleasing picture. A curious change is observable in it, however, at a little distance off. The rabbit on the right looks precisely like a sentimental duck, his ears being transformed into an unexceptionable bill! Number 219, The Seamstress,' is justly a favorite with all visitors. It is a most truthful illustration of the very spirit of Hoop's 'Song of the Shirt.' In the weak eyes, the despairing attitude, of the only figure, and the simple accessories of the poor apartment, there is abundant material for tears.' Truly an excellent picture. .. Mr. RANNEY is a young artist who is steadily improving. His Match-Boy,' Number 192, is a very good thing indeed. . . . Mr. ROSSITER stands Number One' in the catalogue, at all events; and indeed his picture is in many respects a very good one; but such an idea of painting every thing red bangs the copper.' Mr. ROSSITER should come home. He has been so long in Italy copying the old masters, that he imitates their dirt and dust exactly. The same may be said of GRAY, BROWN, and others of our artists, who stay too long abroad, and forget that there is such a thing in existence as simple nature. Mr. SPENCER paints

...

6

LOW.. ·

very respectable portraits, as his portion of the exhibition will evince; but he has also astonished the public this time with something in the historical line — ' Don Quixotte in his Study.' It is a curious-looking thing; mahogany face, mahogany dress, mahogany dog! We are not sufficiently well versed in the terms of art to say technically what this picture requires, but it wants something very much. . . MR. SWAIN has two clever portraits. The drapery in Number 193 is especially well done. JESSE TALBOT has very perceptibly improved. He has a fine feeling for nature, and loves his art. His landscapes this year are better than any we have ever seen from his pencil. Number 77, Lake Champlain,' is quiet in tone and color, and a very pleasing picture. Mr. C. G. THOMPSON has four pictures in the exhibition, the most pleasing of which are Numbers 76, JULIET, in the Balcony Scene,' and 322, a good portrait of the artist's wife. Mr. THOMPSON, however, has never, to our thinking, exceeded his admirable portraits of BRYANT and LONGFELMr. TERRY has returned from Italy, after an absence of several years, with more of the right kind of feeling than our travelling artists generally do. His style is somewhat dry and hard, and he has no great endowment in the way of imagination; yet he draws well, and finishes with a great deal of care. The Fancy Head,' Number 119, is a very pretty little picture. WALDO AND JEWETT have nine portraits in the Gallery; the best of which are those of our old mayor, STEPHEN ALLEN, and Com. JAMES MACKINTOSH; both absolutely speaking likenesses.' No artists can give better likenesses than these gentlemen; but their outlines are hard, almost invariably. · WHAT shall we say of WENZLER? The artists generally condemn his coloring, we find; still the public like his pictures, for seen at the right distance they are life-like. Number 156, Portrait of a Lady,' we like, although we are at a loss to know whether she is sitting or standing. The back-ground is hard, and the drapery somewhat formal and stiff; yet the head pleases almost every body. The portrait of Rev. Dr. BERRIAN! - Shadows to-night have struck more terror !' Mr. Whitridge, of Cincinnati, has sent only one little picture, (Number 271,) and it is the first time he has ever exhibited in this city; but we hope it will not be the last. Look at that water; it beats all we ever saw painted. The clouds too, and the mist rising through the valley, are very beautiful. The hill on the left seemed to us a little formal and stiff; but take it all in all, the picture is a remarkably clever one.

etc.

CHILDREN, and children of a larger growth! Niblo's Garden is open! Great preparations have been made by the manager to insure a more brilliant campaign than any preceding one. Mr. NIBLO visited Europe for the express purpose of obtaining the aid of the RAVELS, and he succeeded. The elder and junior branches of this talented family have met half-way; the former from their pleasant retreats in France, the latter from South America. Two first-rate' dancers have also been secured; an Austrian lady, M'dlle. BLANGY, from Vienna, and Mons. EDMUND HENRIE, who has recently made a most successful début in Paris. The whole arrangement of matters will be under the direction of Mr. CHIPPENDALE, himself an admirable actor and a scarcely less effective manager. Other engagements are pending; and should vaudeville form part of the scheme, the first talent, we are well assured, will be presented. A more delightful place of entertainment there is not on this continent than Niblo's Garden and Theatre in the summer solstice. We look to see the exertions of our old and enterprising fellow-citizen adequately rewarded.

6

Well, constant reader,' you have` allotted periods,' and are about to

Have you been disappointed in

GOSSIP WITH READERS AND CORRESPONDENTS. accompanied us to the end of another of our commence with us Our Twenty-Eighth Volume. us hitherto? Have we fallen short, in letter or spirit, of our promises to you-ward? Let us hope not; but venture to assume the rather, that what we could accomplish we have accomplished; that from substantial evidence, we are entitled to conclude that you have been something more than satisfied with our exertions to entertain you; and such being the case,' we ask you to believe that our forth-coming volume will prove second to no one that has appeared heretofore. Our stores of matériel are abundant, and from the best sources in the country; our aims are high, and we hope in no respect to fall short of them. But by our performances let us be judged. ・・・ THE leading article in the present number will arrest the reader's attention. It is translated by an old and esteemed friend, Hon. H. W. ELLSWORTH, Our Minister to the Court of Sweden, from MARMIER, the distinguished historian of the French Exploring Expedition which traversed the Northern Seas, and who has written many valuable and interesting letters upon Iceland, Sweden, Denmark, and other portions of Europe, little known, even in these days of incessant travel. In presenting a sketch of the origin, progress and wonders of Lubeck, once the queen-city of the Hanseatic League, our correspondent has chosen a good starting-point in Northern Europe, as he will now follow the gifted writer through his interesting excursions in Norway, Lapland, and other remote regions. As to Sweden, we shall be favored with the result of our correspondent's personal observations. It will not perhaps be deemed improper for us to say a word or two in this place touching our obliging correspondent. Mr. ELLSWORTH is the grandson of Chief-Justice ELLSWORTH, and Hon. E. GOODRICH, of New-Haven; two of the wisest and best men of our country, whose children all bear the stamp of intellectual greatness for which their fathers have been so preeminently distinguished. As a student, he took Bishop BERKLEY's medal at Yale, for his attainments in Greek and the philosophy of PLATO. He removed to Indiana, where he has distinguished himself as an orator and politician; and although the youngest man ever appointed to a foreign court, was recommended to the President by every constituted authority of the State of Indiana, now the sixth state in the Union; by its Governor and Lieutenant-Governor, its Senate and House of Representatives, its Chief and Associate Justices, as well as by distinguished men of other sections of the country. Such is the character of our distinguished correspondent, who we are confident will well sustain the honor of our country as one of its foreign representatives, and the character of the distinguished family to which he has the honor to belong. · WE find the following precious bit of pious twattle in the 'Ladies' Repository and Gatherings of the West,' a monthly Methodist magazine, published at Cincinnati, and edited by E. THOMPSON. In praising a communication in its pages, he says: 'Our contributor gives us one recommendation which we cannot indorse. We mean his advice to youth to read the writings of WASHINGTON IRVING; but he would have the entire advantage of us in a controversy on this point, for we have never read a page of that learned American novelist's fascinating productions, unless we may have met with some of his sketches in the periodicals. We have serious doubts whether they are admissible as books for the young. They belong to a pernicious class, and awaken a desire for the more objectionable novels.'

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