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CHAP. XIII.

Journey into Stranda Syssel, and return to Reykiavik— Gilsfiord-Steindalsheidi-Fell-Paradise-Drift Timber-Stad-Interesting Interview with the Dean-Bitruháls-Holltavördu-heidi-View of the Sun at MidnightMount Baula-Reykiadal—Reykholt-Snorro Sturluson's Bath-Biographical Sketch of Snorro-Hot Springs of Reykiadal-Saurbæ-Hebrew Scholar-HvalfiordKiosar Syssel-Reykiavik.

HAVING rested about five hours at Hvol, I got the peasant to proceed with me unto Stranda Syssel, which lies on the east or opposite side of the peninsula. For the first three hours we pursued the same road I had formerly taken along the southern shore of the Gilsfiord; and though it was now the 19th of June, I could discover no improvement in the season; the wreaths of snow appeared to possess their former bulk, and the frost and N. E. wind were equally keen. On turning the end of the bay, we struck off, through a narrow pass, into Steindals-heidi, where we had much difficulty in passing the snows, and evading the tremendous chasms which every now and then projected across the path. The mountains on both sides were of an ordinary height, and partially covered with grass, but the extreme coldness of the winds, which almost incessantly blow from the N. E. prevents vegetation from attaining any degree of maturity.

About six o'clock on the morning of the 20th, we reached a more auspicious region; the parish of Fell, consisting of a number of fruitful dales, which run up between the mountains, from the termination of the narrow but beautiful bay

of Kollafiord. At Fell there is a small church, in which I was rather surprised to find a large wooden image of St Olaf, King of Norway, which is said to have been drifted up here by the sea, and most likely belonged to some of the earlier navigators, who did not judge it safe to venture on the tempestuous ocean, without a representation of their tutelary saint.

Having slept a few hours in the farm-house, I proceeded along the northern shore of the Kollafiord, which is lined at various places with curious walls of basaltic rock, and came in the course of an hour to Steingrimsfiord, the largest bay on the east side of the peninsula. It is upwards of twenty miles in length, and about ten at its greatest breadth, and has been navigated, in former times, by the Spaniards and Irish, the ruins of whose houses are still to be seen. Strange as it may appear to the inhabitants of warmer climes, and a more grateful soil, even the most distant districts of the comparatively barren Iceland are not without their Paradise ; there being a place of that name on the north side of the bay. So true it is, that

"Still, even here, content can spread a charm,
Redress the clime, and all its rage disarm.

Though poor the peasant's hut, his feasts though small,
He sees his little lot, the lot of all;

Sees no contiguous palace rear its head,

To shame the meanness of his humble shed;
No costly lord the sumptuous banquet deal,
To make him loathe his poor and scanty meal;
But calm, and bred in ignorance and toil,
Each wish contracting, fits him to the soil."

As I passed over the extensive plains, between the bay and the mountains, I came up to a fine large tent, which I supposed to be inhabited by a person of consequence, but after exchanging some vain guesses on the subject with my guide, we examined it, and were equally surprised and amused to find it occupied by a cow. The poor animal had hurt her leg, and there being no carts in use, it was impos

sible to convey her home to the farm. She was now nearly recovered, and on my return the following day, had actually been removed by the peasant.

Many of the plains in this quarter are suffered to lie waste, but would furnish excellent farm lands were they to undergo cultivation. Several of the farm-houses wear a very superior appearance, especially those of Heydalsâ and Vidardalsá, which may partly be accounted for by the great abundance of drift-timber with which the shores of this bay are covered. Each farm has its division of the beach, and at stated periods the wood is removed to a sufficient distance from the water. The advantages resulting from this produce of the sea in some measure compensate for the want of native forests, and are fully appreciated by the Icelanders ; so that many of the coast-places sell high, and are often held in possession, or rented by persons who live on the opposite side of the island. Besides using the wood for their own private purposes, the inhabitants of this Syssel fabricate all kinds of small cooper-work during the winter, and thus provide themselves with a new species of barter against the sum

mer.

In the course of the day I had several rivers to ford, but the coldness of the atmosphere preventing the snows on the mountains from melting, I got over them all without much difficulty. Towards evening the ride began to prove very fatiguing, owing to the inequalities of the road, and my having been deceived as to the distance, not supposing Stad, the limit of my journey, to be more than two-thirds of the way. Having crossed a rugged and stony tract, which juts out into the bay, I again reached its southern shore, and entering the fine valley in which it terminates, I rode on with increased speed to the parsonage, which I reached about nine o'clock. It is very agreeably situated on the north side of the valley, near a considerable river, which here empties itself into the bay. The valley itself appeared to be rich in grass; and there was more vegetation on the surrounding mountains than I should have supposed from their northerly situation.

From the different accounts that had been given me of the Dean, Sira Hiallte Jonson, I was led to form a very high idea of his character, but on becoming personally acquainted with him, my expectations were not only met but greatly exceeded. His external appearance was in no respect different from that of the neighbouring peasants, as I took him at an unawares, repairing one of his fences; but I soon found in him, not only the kind, hospitable, and unassuming Icelander, but the consistent Christian, and the enlightened, zealous, and indefatigable servant of Jesus Christ. His learning is that of the Skalholt school, increased by private application, and the improvement of his time since leaving that seminary, in studying the Scriptures, the ways and operations of Providence, and the different phenomena of mind and matter, as discoverable within the sphere he occupies. His theological system is that of Luther, to which he has undeviatingly adhered, notwithstanding the manifold temptations which the scepticism and infidelity of modern times have thrown in his way. The duties of the Dean's office are chiefly confined to the secular part of the ecclesiastical state in Iceland; but Sira Hiallte, though strictly conscientious in his discharge of this part of his office, views it merely as the subordinate and less important part. His primary concern is the advancement of the spiritual and eternal welfare of the clergy and people committed to his charge, which he seeks by every means in his power-preaching the word in season and out of season, charging, admonishing, rebuking, &c. He also undertakes long journies, for the purpose of catechising youth, and inspecting the state of his parishes, and maintains in his own family habits of piety and religion.

The Stad family forms almost a congregation of itself, consisting of not fewer than twenty-eight persons, to provide for whom requires no small share of prudent economy. It is worthy of notice, that Mrs Jonson derives her descent from one of the kings of Ireland, through the line of a family which settled here at an early period of Icelandic history. In no part of the world do we find a people more te

nacious of genealogical descent than the natives of this distant island; nor is there perhaps a people that have it more in their power to ascertain its degrees with accuracy, as they have always been animated by a spirit of literary research, and are in possession of a number of written monuments which enter into the minutest detail of the family transactions of their ancestors.

On the 21st I was under the necessity of bidding adieu to the interesting and pious family at Stad, after partaking of an excellent breakfast provided me by Mrs Jonson. The Dean himself, and one of his sons, did me the honour to accompany me two days' journey to the southward. The good man entered with his whole soul into the plan of the Bible Society, and hailed the present opening of Divine Providence as the dawn of a glorious day to the Icelandic church.

We arrived at Fell about seven o'clock in the evening, where I had my tent pitched; and set off the following morning across the steep mountain road of Bitruháls, on the west side of which the valley is situated that contains the Mokollshaugar, a number of banks and rising grounds, famous for the excellent porcelain earth with which they abound. * As we proceeded up the ascent we were much retarded by a lake, which was entirely covered with ice and snow, and the ice being in many places rotten beneath, the horses had nearly sunk into the water. On reaching the summit, we were gratified with an extensive and interesting prospect. Directly before us, to the south-east, lay the long Hofs-Yökul, which was relieved on the south by the vast icemountains to the west of Bláfell, and on the north by the mountains in Hunavatns-Syssel, which project in a northerly direction between the Skaga and Hrutafiords. Turning towards the north, we had a fine view of the bold promontories of Stranda Syssel, above which towered the Drânga and Glâma ice-mountains, the only masses of the kind in that quarter of the island. They are not so high as the

Mohr. p. 288.

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