of water through the tuffa, till gradually hardened by the air. The cave is forty-one feet in length, by twenty-five in breadth; and the vaults are about fourteen feet in height. On being informed that it is used as a sheep-pen, and is on that account termed the Fiârhellir, I was reminded of the "sheep-cotes" of the cave in the wilderness of Engedi, where David cut off the skirt of Saul's robe, 1 Sam. xxiv. 3.

Close behind this cave is another, called Saunghellir, or "The Singing Cave"-not so much, I should suppose, from any remarkable echo observable in it, as from the custom of a psalm being always sung by those who visit it. It runs upwards into the mountain, and is about twenty-four feet in length, by twelve in width. When we had all got up into it, we prevailed on the Dean, who has a very powerful voice, to raise a psalm, which he did, and was immediately joined by the other two clergymen. It had a most solemn effect; and while they were singing, the train of my meditation led me to those times in which the fearers of God were obliged to flee from the fury of their ruthless persecutors, and hide themselves "in dens and caves of the earth;" and, when debarred the use of public worship, they caused similar caves to resound with the high praises of the Redeemer.

The Hundahellir is near the parsonage, and is said to connect with a vast cavern, which stretches the whole way west to the Snæfell Yökul, but the roof not being more than two feet high, it is impossible to enter it with any degree of ease. The idea of the long cavern has most probably originated with the fabulous account of Bârdr, the ás, or god of the Yökul, and the supposed connection between him and Hyt, the mistress of this valley: but when we refleet, that a regular chain of volcanic cones stretches from Baula, near the upper end of Borgarfiord Syssel, along the centre of the promontory of Snæfellsness, till terminated by the Yökul, which is itself a notable volcano, it will not appear at all improbable, that there does exist some subterraneous line of communication between them.

After dining at the parsonage, we accompanied the Dean

along the base of the mountains on the east side of the valley till reaching their termination, when we bade each other an affectionate farewell, and I returned with my new host to Stadarhraun. Having been quitted by five noisy eagles, which kept soaring at a considerable height directly over head, and which we supposed to be on the watch for some lambs that were grazing in the vicinity, Sira Daniel and I entered into an animated conversation about the all-important concerns of religion; and the longer we were together, the more I felt attached to him, and became more and more convinced of the genuineness of his piety, and the purity of his motives as a minister of the gospel of Christ. He has the care of two parishes, in one of which were only two copies of the Bible among fourteen families. Though there were two copies in his own family, two more had been subscribed for, besides several New Testaments. A poor woman, who was ignorant of her husband's having made application for a copy, came, after the list had been sent in to the Dean, and with many tears lamented her dilatoriness, and the guilt she had contracted in neglecting to avail herself of the golden opportunity;-but what was her joy on being informed, that a copy had been secured for her!

May 21st, Lord's Day. The great bulk of the popula tion being absent at the fishing-places, there was no public worship at Stadarhraun: yet I was in no ordinary degree interested by witnessing the piety and devotion manifested by the clergyman and his family, eight in number, in the exercise of their domestic worship. We assembled round the altar, which was extremely simple, consisting merely of a coarse wooden table, when several appropriate psalms were in a very lively manner, after which a solemn and impressive prayer was offered up, the females, meanwhile, pla cing their hands flat on their faces, so as entirely to cover their eyes. The clergyman now read an excellent sermon on Regeneration, from Vidalin's collection, which is in great repute over the whole island, and has, perhaps, more than any thing else, contributed to perpetuate a clear and distinct knowledge of the fundamental principles of Christia

sung

nity among the natives. The service concluded with singing and prayer; after which, the members of the family gave each other the primitive kiss; and I could discover, from the joy that beamed in every eye, the actual increase of happiness derived from their renewed approach to the Fountain of Bliss.

Towards evening the clergyman of Hytardal came to conduct me to Hytârness, agreeably to a promise he had made me the preceding day. Close to the river Quarnâ, at the margin of the lava which fills the greater part of the valley, we came to a small mineral spring, which was discovered some years ago by the clergyman of Stadarhraun. The soil appeared to be highly impregnated with iron, and the water, which in the well was covered with a light blue slime, possessed a considerable degree of acidity. A bottle of this water, which was brought home by Sir George Mackenzie, has been chemically examined by Dr Thomson, whọ ascribes its peculiarities entirely to the portion of carbonate of lime which it contains. *

In the "Royal Mirror," a curious Norwegian work, supposed to have been written before the close of the twelfth century, express mention is made of a celebrated mineral spring in this valley; but whether it was situated at this spot, or higher up, cannot now be determined. The author mentions three things as remarkable about the water. When drunk in a considerable quantity, it inebriates; if the well be covered with a roof, the water leaves the place, and springs up somewhere else in the vicinity; and, lastly, though it possesses the above quality when drank at the well, on being carried away, it loses its efficacy, and becomes like other water. † Many such springs exist on both sides of the promontory. They are called by the natives Ölkelldar, or Ale Wells, from their taste, and the effects of the water when taken fasting. The most remarkable are those of Raudamel, Stadarstad, Budum, Frodar-heidè, Olufsvik, Hrisakot, and Eydum. It is but seldom they are used, * Travels in Iceland, 2d Edit. p. 391.

Kongs-skugg-sio, p. 163, 164. Soroe, 17C8, 4to.

however powerful their medicinal virtues; nor were it in deed advisable for the natives to use them without proper medical directions.

Leaving the lava of Hytardal, we soon encountered that of Barnaborg, which has issued from three stupendous chimneys that have been thrown up in the middle of the plain, and present a very bold and rugged appearance. The lava seems to have run with great fury, and to have been suddenly cooled; for it is extremely rough, and it was not without imminent danger that we crossed it. About eight o'clock in the evening we arrived at Hytârness, and were kindly received by the clergyman and his chaplain, both of whom expressed, in very strong terms, their gratitude for the provision that had been made for the spiritual wants of their parishioners.

Next day, about noon, I prosecuted my journey towards the west, accompanied by the two clergymen just mentioned, and the minister of Stadarhraun, who, to use his own words, found it impossible to tear himself away from me. The morasses in front of the mountains being almost impassable, I resolved to avail myself of low water, and pass the Langaförar, or sands, between the mouth of Hnappadal and Sta darstad, the next station on the road. On our arrival at the beach, however, we had the disappointment to find that we had made a wrong calculation, and were obliged to stay at a neighbouring farm till the following ebb.

At the distance of about two miles due north, and completely surrounded with lava, rose the grand circular crater of Elldborg, which is not only remarkable on account of its singular configuration, but also because it stands quite insulated in the middle of an extensive plain, which it has al most entirely deluged with lava.

Having got the baggage taken off our horses, we set out on foot across the lava, in order to inspect more closely this curious production of nature. The walk proved very rough, and sometimes dangerous, owing to the sharp and cavernous nature of the lava. Several of the largest caves are used for sheep-pens, it being a fact that, when left to follow their