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CHAP. IV.

Journey to Vopnafiord-Public Worship and Catechising at Háls-Icelandic Dress-Pauperage-Piety-Skialfandafliot-Lava-Salmon River-Husavik-Hot Springs of Reykiahverf-Greniadarstad-Lava, near MyvatnTraces of Volcanic Eruptions in the Bible-Eruptions of Leirhnukr and Krabla-Church of Reykiahlid—Myvatn -Sulphur Mountain-Hot Springs-Ascent of Krabla -Boiling Pool in the Crater-Obsidian Mountain-Desert-Dangerous River-Grimstad-Rural Happiness -Computation of Time-Desert-Hof in Vopnafiord.

HAVING digested a plan with the Secretary, relative to the circulation of the Scriptures in this part of the island, and furnished myself with two fresh horses, I took my departure from Akur-eyri in the afternoon of the 13th of August. Of the kindness shewn me at that place by Captain Von Scheel and Mr Hemmert, as also by Mr Gudman, the supercargo of a brig lying in the roads, I shall ever retain a grateful remembrance. To Captain Von Scheel in particular, I am under the deepest obligations, for the very distinguished attention and accommodation which I experienced during the time we were together.

A little above the factory, I crossed the river of Eyafiord, which, before falling into the bay, divides into a number of streams, and forms several beautiful islands; whence the bay is called Eyafiord, or Island-bay. During my stay in the neighbourhood, I had often surveyed the opposite mountain, called Vadla-heidé, by which the districts of Vadlé and Thingey are divided from each other, and anticipated the extensive prospect I should have on gaining its summit; but the atmosphere was foggy, and I had scarcely got half way

up the ascent, when I found myself completely enveloped in mist. Happening, however, to look behind me, I was much interested by a bird's-eye view, which I obtained through a picturesque hole in the mist, and which, though small, displayed several windings of the river, and a church or two, with a number of cottages that crowded into the scene. Having descended about two miles on the other side of the mountain, the mist began to dissipate, and disclosed the beautiful valley of Fnioskâ, which lay directly before me. The mountains on both sides of this valley differ from those to the west, by their being free from crags, and almost entirely covered with grass. About a hundred years ago, the valley exhibited one of the finest forests in Iceland, but now there is not a single tree to be seen-such has been the havock made by the inclemency of the seasons, and the improvident conduct of the inhabitants. The remains of this forest are still visible on the east side of the river, which divides the valley, in the numerous stumps of birch trees which present themselves, some of which exceed two feet in dia

meter.

Proceeding a little up the east side of the valley, I arrived at Háls, where there is a good church, and an excellent glebe. Immediately on approaching it, I easily perceived that the clergyman must be in good circumstances, from the verdure and extent of the tún,* and the number of cows, sheep, and goats, that were grazing around. Though nearly dark, Sira Sigurdr, the clergyman, had not yet left the meadow, where he was assisting his people at the hay; but, on being

The tun signifies the ground immediately connected with the farm-houses in Iceland, which, as it is the only part that receives any manure, is always conspicuously distinguished from the rest of the ground by its superior verdure. The term had formerly the same signification with the English town, hence Eskilstuna, Sigtuna, &c. in Sweden; but it is now exclusively used in the above sense. It has the same meaning in the Anglo-Saxon translation of αγρος, Luke xiv. 18. Ic bohte anne tun, where Ulphilas has land bauhta. Vul. "villam emi." In the poetic Edda, we read that the Einheriar daily contend in "Othins tunom," for which the prosaic Edda has "i gardinn," in the court or open space before the houses. Compare Vafthrud, ver. xli. with the xxxv. Dæmi

sage.

informed of my arrival, he made the best of his way home, and received me at a little distance from the house, in the kindest and most affectionate manner. Before reaching the door, we were met by his wife, who ran, asking, "Where is my guest ?" and gave me a hearty welcome. I had scarcely entered the parlour, when I was served with excellent coffee; and, as there was plenty of room in the house, I was desired not to pitch my tent, but to accept of such accommodation as they could afford. Having read the letter which I delivered to him from the Bishop, to whom he is related, Sira Sigurdr told me, he did not doubt but that his parishes, which are three in number, would take a considerable quantity of Bibles and New Testaments. A few copies of the edition of the New Testament, published in 1807, had been sent him for distribution; but they only went a little way, and tended rather to make the wants of the people more visible than afford them any adequate supply. He assured me they would buy copies with the utmost cheerful

ness.

The next day, being the Lord's day, I was happy to find it was his turn to conduct divine worship at this place. There is only one service in the Icelandic churches, which seldom begins in any part of the island before noon, and in some places not before two o'clock. The reason of the hour being so late is, that the Icelanders have their sheep to col lect and milk, the horses on which they are to ride to seek and drive home, and themselves to dress; which circumstances, taken in connexion with the length of the way many of them have to come, renders it impossible for them to meet

sooner.

A little before church time, the mistress of the house and her two daughters made their appearance, richly dressed in the complete Icelandic costume, and had it been another day, I should certainly have spent some time in examining the various articles of which it was made up; but the nature of the exercises we were called to engage in, demanded the utter exclusion from the mind of all such trivial subjects, and reminded us of the necessity of another kind of clo

thing" the robes of righteousness, and garments of salvation."*

Though the morning was rainy, the church was well filled. Having gone through the altar-service, the clergyman went to the door, and taking a female by the hand, who had stood

Though I do not recollect seeing a richer Icelandic dress than that of the clergyman's wife at Háls, yet, as I had afterwards frequent opportunities of observing the costume of the Icelandic females in general, I shall here present the reader with a description of it.—Next to the body they wear a Skirta, or shift, which is generally made of single wadmel, and is fastened round the neck by means of a silver or brass button. Besides two or three blue petticoats of the same material, to which they give the name of fat; they have in front a svinta or apron of blue cloth, bordered with black velvet, and hung above with an ornament of silver or gilt brass. The bodice or waist-piece, (upphlutur) consists of red or black wadmel, on the back of which are three stripes of velvet covering the seams, and in front are two broad borders of the same stuff, elegantly ornamented with five or six silver clasps, by which it is fastened, and a profusion of lace embroidery. Exactly beneath the bodice, the petticoats are fastened by means of a velvet girdle (lindi,) which is studded with ornaments of polished stones, plate, &c. Round the neck is worn a thick ruff of black velvet (strutur,) about two inches in breadth, and nicely embroidered with silver. The treya, or jacket, is made to fit close to the body, and consists of black wadmel; the sleeves also sit tight, and are ornamented at the wrists with Erma-knappar, or buttons silver-gilt, and sometimes exhibiting the initials of the husband and wife. Over all goes the Hempa, or cloak of black cloth, the borders of which are lined with velvet of the same colour, and tied in front by means of clasps. The stockings (Sockar) are of dark blue, or red worsted, and the shoes of the Icelanders are made of seal or sheep skins, by cutting a square piece the length of the foot, and sewing up an indentation made at each end, so as to make them fit close. Excepting the pointed toe, they exactly assume the form of the foot, and are kept on by two leathern thongs, one of which binds from side to side across the instep, and the other, which is fixed at the heel, is brought round the ancle, and tied once or twice about the leg.

Such of the Icelandic females as are in better circumstances, suspend elegant silver chains from the neck, with large medals of the same metal, on which are different figures and inscriptions of a religious nature.

The most curious and fantastic part of the female costume is the head-dress. It consists of a faldur or turban made of white linen, and stiffened with an immense number of pins. It is generally between fifteen and twenty inches in height, roundish where it leaves the head, but instantly assuming a flattish shape, and after rising to the height of about twelve inches, by a curve backwards, it again bends forward, and terminates in a square form, not less than six inches in breadth. It is fastened to the head by means of a black, or dark coloured silk handkerchief, which is wound round it several times, and, falling close behind the ears, completely hides the hair. The bridal-dress is still richer, espe

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