FORESTRY.

TREATMENT OF PLANTATIONS WITHOUT REGULAR THINNING. Some readers may be interested in the results of my final under-planting in my plantation of

six acres.

The Beech and Silver-fir that were planted in 1893, at a distance 6 feet apart in the 20-foot cuts, have grown well. The Beech have grown faster, and have been pruned slightly, whence they overgrew the Silver-fir.

In 1897 the denser plants of the Larch plan. tation, between the 20-foot cuts, were thinned to about 8 feet apart between the plants, and an underplanting of Beech and Silver-fir was made.

Some cutting and some underplanting has been done each year at a cost of £7 2s. 6d., and in 1905 my son planted 400 Douglas Firs, which involved an expenditure of £7 12s. The trees were delayed in transit, and as a consequence the roots were injured, and 68 of the trees died, but these were subsequently replaced. This year we have planted 468 Douglas Firs averaging 2 feet to 2 feet 6 inches in height. They were delivered promptly, and were "heeled" in a field which had been cropped with Mangold Wurtzels, being permanently planted on November 14 and 15.

With seedling Beech, taken up in the plan. tation, we have planted 600 trees in three days.

The mode of treatment in former years left vistas of 12 feet in one direction and 16 feet in another. These cuts had closed in before the wider cuts were made.

In 1887 I saw Mr. McCorquodale's work in Lord Mansfield's woods, and planted a Douglas Fir among Larch and old Oak when it had bare headroom. This, though planted 30 years after the Larch, is now as tall as the latter, and nearly as large. It has no branches an inch in diameter, but forms a beautiful straight trunk. The pits were made in September, and my workman, when I set him to work, pointed out that we had missed some parts of the wood when underplanting, and a strong growth of Hazel had sprung up under the best Larch. This he cleared away, and made 496 pits with 68 failures last year, 544 to be filled. We planted the other pits with Beech and Silver-fir seedlings taken up in the plantation, and planted some more of the seedlings, making 600 trees in all. The Douglas Fir we had this year were 2 feet to 2 feet 6 inches, and some 3 feet in height, being as good trees as I ever planted.

If the Larch are cut when the Douglas Firs are 20 feet high, there will be some good patches of the latter trees at about 6 feet apart. These will probably be free from branches and will grow rapidly.

In planting I use a large stick with a blunt, rounded point, so as not to injure the roots. Trees thus planted and not trodden about their roots never become loose in the soil, and the rain, of which we have recently had plenty, can enter the soil freely. As I am 81, I cannot expect to live to see the Larch felled, and thus know the result of this interesting experiment. I noticed Douglas Fir near Porlock in Sir Thomas Acland's plantations, and elsewhere,

were

much branched, and had lost their tops as soon as they got above the other trees. Henry Rogers, Plymouth.

VEGETABLES.

HARDY KALES.

Although up to the present time moderate successes have to be recorded concerning the respective trials which have been conducted in the Wisley gardens, there is reason to believe that things will, now that the ground is getting into a better condition as the result of manuring and working, greatly improve. At the present time there is to be seen in these gardens a remarkably good trial of hardy Kales. It is one that all interested in these winter vegetables would be pleased to inspect. Although Kales are plants which, given fairly good soil and plenty of room, will very well take care of them. selves, this trial is very instructive, and merits every praise. The considerable breadth, includ ing, as it does, all the best-known varieties, was

seen by a few members of the Vegetable Com. mittee at the end of September, and it was then agreed that at a later date the entire breadth should be carefully examined. That examination it is anticipated will take place during December, by which time each variety or stock should have fully developed its normal features. Some desire was expressed that not only should the test be one of excellence of stock or otherwise, but also that of hardiness. This latter test is entirely dependent on the winter. Still, it is rare that Kales suffer much in our southern winters, and thus the test may not be furnished. Generally, all Kales are fairly hardy, and after standing through so dry a summer as the last, it is not likely that plants will exhibit undue tenderness during the winter. Accepting the fact that hardiness is the general characteristic of all the varieties, the committee would therefore concern themselves chiefly with the respective merits of the stocks, as classed under the headings of tall curled Scotch, dwarf curled Scotch, Arctic curled, Cottagers, Asparagus, Buda, Chou de Milan, Tall Jersey, Hybrid curled, or other type into which Kales are divided. Generally, Kales are most valuable during hard winters, when other and more tender members of the Brassica family have succumbed to frost or are over. It is during the latter winter months that Kales become so useful and valuable, because of their relatively hardy constitution. Their "heads," after being well frosted, form tender, sweet greenfood, and their abundant stem sprouts, coming in gradu. ally, give delicious, tender leafage for several weeks. Could time and space have been spared, a record sowing of seed of all the stocks now growing at Wisley and a further planting some six weeks later than the first one, would have furnished useful evidence of the value of successional crops of this vegetable, the later one as a rule furnishing an ample supply of sprouts up to the end of April. A. D.

The Week's Work.

THE FLOWER GARDEN.

By HUGH A. PETTIGREW, Gardener to the Earl of PLYMOUTH St. Fagan's Castle, Glamorganshire.

Hardy Climbers.-At this season of the year, when planting is in full operation, and alterations in the garden are being carried out, a few reminders of suitable climbers or plants for garden-walls may not be out of place. Having already in previous notes dealt at some length on the uses of Roses in similar positions, it will be unnecessary here to repeat the names of the varieties, as they will readily occur to the intending planter, and it will suffice to remark that Roses are invaluable for the purpose.

Clematis. In the category of climbers, Clematis are bound to take a foremost place, for there is none more diversified in growth, and in the period of flowering, or more gorgeous in bloom. The Clematis are graceful in habit, and in colour embrace almost every shade of red and blue in combination, and even include scarlet and crimson, while yellow flowering species and pure white are common. By a judicious selection of species and varieties they may be had in flower from April until frost puts an end to their blooming. In order to grow them well, at the foot of a wall, the ground should be prepared and good drainage secured, as nothing is more inimical to Clematis than wet, cold, undrained soil, which induces soft spongy growth. The soil should be a rich loam, Amongst the best of spring-flowering Clematis are the following:---C. montana grandiflora, Sir Garnet Wolseley, Duke of Edinburgh, Miss Bateman, Mrs. Quilter, and the Queen. Autumn-flowering varieties are:-Ville de Lyon, Nelly Moser, Mrs. George Jackman, Countess of Onslow, Coccinea, La France, C. flammula, and B. flammula rubra marginata.

Honeysuckles.-These charming and fragrant flowering plants are delightful aids for the adornment of a wall or porch, but perhaps the two best are Lonicera japonica Halliana and L. j. flexuosa. The former is particularly useful, as its deliciously sweet-scented flowers, which are borne profusely. appear in July and last until nearly Christmas, and both are vigorous growers. For gardens situated in the south and south-west, L. Hildebrandiana, which bears flowers 6 or 7 inches long, of a beautiful orange-crimson colour, with

large dark, glossy leaves, should not be omitted, as also L. sempervirens, the Trumpet Honeysuckle. All the Honeysuckles are easy of culture in any soil.

Jasmines.-The ordinary hardy Jasmines, Jasminum officinale and J. nudiflorum, are too well known and their value too much appreciated to require any reminder here, but mention might be made of the new species lately introduced from China, J. primulinum, which is a decided acquisition amongst plants for walls. It flowers profusely in the summertime having large semi-double goldencoloured flowers, while its dark-green foliage is highly ornamental and is evergreen. J. humile (J. Wallichianum) is worthy of more extended cultivation, as it has a light, graceful habit, and it flowers in summer.

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

By J. GIBSON, Gardener to His Grace the Duke of PORTLAND, Welbeck Abbey, Notts. Spring Cabbages.-If the plants have grown strongly and now show part of their stems, draw a little soil slightly towards them to afford them some protection during hard frost. As a rule, the stems are the weakest part and should be protected. Select a dry day, when the soil is not in a pasty condition, for doing this work, or more harm than good may result.

Protection of Vegetables.-So far there have been no severe frosts, and crops have continued to grow without check. Autumn Cauliflowers have been abundant, and early varieties of Broccoli, such as Michaelmas White and SelfProtecting. All this, howver, may be changed at any moment, and every effort should be put forth to save the crops immediately the change does take place by lifting any that are approach. ing maturity and planting them in frames or outhouses. Ventilate very freely during mild weather all frames containing vegetables. Parsley and Lettuce in frames should have their decaying leaves picked off periodically. Let a sprinkling of lime be worked amongst young plants of Cauliflower in frames to prevent their being damaged by slugs.

Digging. As soon as the ground becomes clear of crops such as Celery, Broccolis, &c., endeavour to get it dug or trenched in readi ness for the next crop. Prepare the ground at the earliest opportunity, because other and unforeseen work may afterwards claim attention. The absence of frost in the mornings has not been helpful to manure-wheeling, but by the use of a few planks the work can be carried out. Do not allow the manure to remain on the surface of the ground longer than is necessary; it is untidy, and it soon loses some of its good qualities when thus exposed to the weather.

Preparing for next season.-It is useful at this season to prepare a general plan for the cropping of the kitchen garden next year. This is a great help, especially to the inexperienced, for he is thus in a much better position to get the best results from the ground, and it will help him in his estimates for seeds, which should be ordered as soon as the gardener can estimate his requirements, or he may find that stocks of certain varieties are exhausted. It is always cheapest in the end to get the best seeds. No can reasonably expect to grow the best crops from inferior seeds.

one

The Frame Ground.-The recent wet weather has hindered the work of digging, and even getting on the land, in gardens where the soil is heavy, but in such weather an opportunity occurs for putting everything in proper order in the frame ground. Manure that is ready for wheeling and carting on to the square should be protected with boards to prevent heavy rains from running through it. More often than not no manure water tank exists, and this material is lost in the drains. This should be remedied, if possible, and such liquid drainings from the manure saved for use on the crops. Litter and leaves should be placed in readiness for the making of hotbeds. Decaying vegetable matter should be turned occasionally to assist decomposition, mixing a little lime with it. Hedges round the frame yard should be examined, and any gaps made good. If no hedge at present exists, it will be advisable to plant one. Privet makes rapid growth, and affords suitable shelter from winds. It is also of neat appearance.

THE HARDY FRUIT GARDEN. By W. A. Cook, Gardener to Sir EDMUND G. Loder, Bart., Leonardslee, Sussex.

Training wall trees.-Defects in trained trees are easily apparent when the branches are defoliated. The shoots of horizontally-trained trees need to be nailed at regular intervals of space, which is easily accomplished on walls where the lines of bricks are visible; but if they are not a chalk line should be drawn or some other such means adopted. The branches should be trained at about 14 inches apart, which will equal three courses of bricks. Fan-trained trees I consider the most suitable for growing as large specimens. The bottom branches of these should be trained horizontally, and the next should be at a slight angle, and so on till the whole is fan shaped, with the central branch in a perfectly vertical position. These trees should now be pruned and trained as fast as opportunity permits. Any scions required for grafting in the spring should be collected, labelled, and be "heeled in" on a north border.

Planting. All kinds of fruit-trees and bushes may still be planted in mild and dry weather. The Bullace and Damson should not be omitted, as the fruits of these are very useful, especially in a season when Plums are scarce. These trees are very hardy, and may be grown in the land skirting an orchard, or they may be given a better position, and be grown as shapely standard trees. Shepherd's Bullace (with large green fruits), Black Bullace (a very late variety) and Veitch's Bullace (a free bearer) are three of the best varieties; while among Damsons Bradley's King, Cheshire and Frogmore may be given as desirable varieties to plant.

a

Blackberries, etc.-These should be planted as soon as is possible, and the stakes or wires for training be had in readiness. The Logan berry is the most popular of this class of fruit. The Mahdi (Raspberry and Blackberry) is also proving a useful variety. Rubus phoenicolasius, the Wine berry, is very suitable for jam making. Rubus palmatus, the so-called Strawberry-Raspberry, is not worth growing except as novelty. The variety Wilson Junior has long, handsome berries, and is regarded as the best of its section. Rubus leucodermis is at this season very handsome, and its flowers and fruit in July are both pretty and sweet. This species should be given a Larch pole, about 7 feet in length, for a support. These brambles are pleasing when trained over wire arches or supports.

Pruning, &c.-Continue to prune, root-prune, and train Pear, Apple, Cherry, Currant, and Gooseberry trees, and if the soil is in a very wet condition use planks for stepping upon. These remarks apply especially to bush and standard trees, this work being more easily carried out in the case of trees growing against walls. The present is a good time to prune and train Morello Cherry trees, this being long and tedious business in cold weather. Most of the old wood should be cut away, laying in straight young shoots and keep. ing them rather thinly disposed. The pruning and training of this Cherry much resembles that of Peach and Nectarine trees.

a

Fruit Room.-Examine the fruit regularly, and remove all decaying specimens.

Orchard trees that are in a bad condition should have all the weak growths and wood cut out, more especially from the middle of the tree. Expose every branch, if possible, to the atmosphere and sunshine, remembering that one bushel of good fruit is equal in value to three or more bushels of inferior quality, whether for supplying the market or for home consumption. These trees should

also be sprayed. It is surprising how many can be treated in a day or week in fine weather by earnest workers. Grass-grown orchards may be much improved by surface cultivation.

THE ORCHID HOUSES. By W. H. WHITE, Orchid Grower to Sir TREVOR LAWRENCE, Bart., Burford, Surrey.

Dendrobiums. Many of these, especially the deciduous ors emi-deciduous species which finished their new growths early in the season, and were thoroughly ripened by the autumn sun. shine, are now prominently showing their flower buds. Among them, may be noted D. aureum, D. nobile and its many varieties, also the garden hybrids D. Wiganianum, D. Melpomene, D. splendidissimum grandiflorum, D. rubens grandi. florum, D. Ainsworthii, D. Artemis, D. Bur

fordiense, D. Cybele, D. Sibyl, and others. In order that an early and effective display of bloom may be made, the more forward plants may be removed from their resting quarters into a house where the atmospheric temperature at night will be about 55°, and in a few weeks, when the flower buds are nearly 1eady to burst open, if they are again removed to the lightest side of the East Indian house, it will assist the flowers to expand, and their colours to become clear and rich. From the present time until the flowers open, a light spraying overhead on warm, bright days, will be helpful to them. Watering must still be carried out very carefully, and only at comparatively long intervals of time, or the "breaks" that are visible at the base of the pseudo-bulbs may grow away and prevent the flower buds from coming to perfection. D. Wardianum and some of the hybrids which have been obtained through its agency, as D. Euterpe, D. Clio, D. aureo-Wardianum, D. Eurycles, D. Alcippe, D. micans, and D. Aspasia are also showing for bloom. These plants invariably produce new growth in conjunction with the flower buds, but if the plants are kept moderately dry at the root, these new breaks will remain almost dormant until the plants have finished blooming, after which time, if the plants are placed in a warm, moist atmosphere, these young growths will develop vigorously. The pretty hybrid D. Wardianojaponicum succeeds best under comparatively cool treatment, such as is usually afforded to Masdevallias. There are some species, as D. primulinum, D. Parishii, D. tortile, D. albosanguineum, D. Pierardii, D. cretaceum, D. cre. pidatum, D. cucullatum, D. transparens, D. crystallinum, D. superbum, and its varieties Burkei, Huttonii, Dearei, and others which are still growing, should on the completion of their growth be kept on the dry side until the pseudobulbs show for bloom, when they should be treated as indicated for the earlier flowering varieties. The rare D. sanguinolentum thrives best if placed with the Mexican Lælias, while such species as D. glomeratum, D. subclausum, D. Jamesianum, D. infundibulum, D. Wattianum, and D. tetragonum should be kept in the coolest part of the intermediate house. Being evergreen plants, they should not be subjected to drying off, the roots requiring to be kept in a moderately moist condition all times. These remarks apply also to such evergreen species as D. thrysiflorum, D. densiflorum, D. Farmerii, D. suavissimum, and D. chrysotoxum, also to the nigro-hirsute section as D. Lowii, D. formosum, D. cruentum, D. draconis (eburneum), D. bellatulum, &c., but they require a few degrees more heat at all seasons. Plants of D. phalaenopsis, after they have done blooming, require a long season of rest. Place them in a light and dry position in the Cattleya house, or, if more convenient, they may be suspended at that part of the warm house where the ventilators are kept more or less open at all times. Strong plants which are well rooted will require very little, if any, water, until growth recommences. The cultivator should not permit the pseudo-bulbs to shrivel to a harmful degree.

at

PLANTS UNDER GLASS.

By B. CROMWELL, Gardener to T. SUTTON TIMMIS, Esq. Cleveley, Allerton, Liverpool.

erroneous

The watering of plants.-There is a right and a wrong method in applying water to plants. At this season of the year there is even greater necessity than usual for the exercising of caution now that the roots of most plants are almost inactive. Such caution is needed particularly in respect to plants that were potted late in summer and autumn, and which have not yet filled their pots with roots; also to hard-wooded plants, pot Roses, and Pelargoniums. A very method of watering plants is that of giving them a little each day, just to prevent them from becoming dry. Some plants will succeed under this kind of treatment longer than others, but they will eventually become unhealthy from the reason that the roots are never properly dry nor thoroughly wet. No plants are affected by careless watering than Azaleas, and often the leaves will fall from the plants to such an extent as to leave them miserable objects to look upon. A plant should not be watered until the soil has become moderately, but not too dry, and then fill the pot from the surface of the soil to the level of the rim, thus giving

sooner

FRUITS UNDER GLASS.

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By T. W. BIRKINSHAW, Gardener to Lt.-Col. Sir CHAS. HAMILTON, Bart., Hatley Park, Bedfordshire. Early Peaches and Nectarines.-Houses containing early varieties of Peaches, such Alexandra and Duchess of Cornwall, and Early Rivers, Cardinal, and Advance Nectarines, should by this time have been thoroughly cleansed inside and the trees made ready for forming into growth, which should be commenced towards the latter part of the present month. If any of the trees are in pots, these should be started into growth first, leaving the forcing of the permanent trees until a little later to provide a succession of fruits. Trees in pots possess this advantage: they can be moved readily, and thus their growth can be better regulated; but if no pot trees are grown, and riper fruits are required early in May, the permanently planted trees should be started into growth slowly. Thoroughly examine the borders, and if they appear to be at all dry give them a good soaking with tepid water. The tenperature to commence with should not exceed 45° at night time and 55° by day, with a rise of 5° during sun-heat. Very little fire-heat will be necessary to maintain these temperatures. Whenever the weather is favourable afford a little ventilation at the top of the house every day, and syringe the trees during the morning and the afternoon. A slight fumigation should be given once or twice before the flower buds are open, but all must be perfectly dry when this operation takes place.

Successional trees, the forcing of which is to commence on New Year's Day, should be cleaned, and receive any necessary pruning, if this has not been already performed. Trees started at this date or after the turn of the year should be afforded somewhat higher temperatures than the above, but an abundance of ventilation must be provided on all possible occasions. Houses containing later trees should be kept as cool as possible by admitting plenty of air both during the day and the nighttime. Any further proposed additions or altera. tions to the borders should be accomplished with as little delay as is possible, and the roots must never be allowed to become dry, for this is the first cause of bud-dropping.

Vine borders. Outside borders containing the roots of early and mid-season vines should now be covered with a thick layer of freshly-dropped leaves and long straw. This protection will prevent excessive rain and snow from penetrating the border, and will also keep the roots warmer. These borders should be examined occasionally to ascertain if rats, are present, for these pests will soon attack and injure vine

roots.

Nectarine Précoce du Croncels.-This variety is worthy of extended culture, for the fruits pos sess a splendid flavour, and can be had early in the season. They are of a desirable size, being pale yellow in colour, flushed with scarlet on the exposed side.

EDITORIAL NOTICE.

ADVERTISEMENTS should be sent to the PUB. LISHER, 41, Wellington Street, Covent Garden, W.C. Letters for Publication as well as specimens and plants for naming, should be addressed to the EDITOR, 41, Wellington Street, Covent Garden, London. Communications should be WRITTEN ON ONE SIDE ONLY OF THE PAPER, sent as early in the week as possible, and duly signed by the writer. If desired, the signature will not be printed, but kept as a guarantee of good faith. Special Notice to Correspondents.-The Editor does not undertake to pay for any contributions or illustrations, or to return unused communications or illustrations, unless by special arrangement. The Editor does not hold himself responsible for any opinions expressed by his correspondents. Illustrations.-The Editor will be glad to receive and to select photographs or drawings, suitable for reproduction, of gardens, or of remarkable plants, flowers, trees, &c., but ne cannot be responsible for loss or injury. Newspapers.-Correspondents sending newspapers should be careful to mark the paragraphs they wish the Editor to see. Local News.-Correspondents will greatly oblige by sending to the Editor early intelligence of local events likely to be of interest to our readers, or of any matters which it is desirable to bring under the notice of horticulturists.

APPOINTMENTS FOR THE ENSUING WEEK.

SATURDAY, DECEMBER 8-Dutch Gard. Soc. meet. MONDAY, DECEMBER 10

Unit. Hort. Ben. & Prov. Soc. Com. meet.

TUESDAY, DECEMBER 11

Roy. Hort. Soc. Comms. meet.

WEDNESDAY, DECEMBER 12

Nat. Chrys. Soc. Exh. of Market Chrys. in the Foreign
Flower Market, Covent Garden.

THURSDAY, DECEMBER 13

Nat. Potato Soc. Exh. at Roy. Hort. Hall, Westminster (2 days).

Manchester and North of England Orchid Soc. meets. SATURDAY, DECEMBER 15-German Gard. Soc. meet.

AVERAGE TEMPERATURE for the ensuing week, deduced from observations of Forty-three Years at Chiswick-40-8°. ACTUAL TEMPERATURES:

LONDON. Wednesday, December 5 (6 P.M.): Max. 54°;
Min. 42°.

Gardeners' Chronicle Office, 41, Wellington Street,
Covent Garden, London.-Thursday, December
6 (10 A.M.): Bar., 29.8°; Temp., 45; Weather-
Overcast.

PROVINCES.-Wednesday, December 5 (6 P.M.): Max. 48°
S.W. Ireland and Cornwall; Min. 41°.

SALES FOR THE ENSUING WEEK, MONDAY AND WEDNESDAY

Sale of Roses, Plants, Bulbs, &c., at Stevens' Rooms, 38, King Street, Covent Garden, W.C.

TUESDAY AND WEDNESDAY

Unreserved sale of the whole of the Nursery Stock at The Ling Nursery, Maidstone, by Protheroe & Morris, at 12. WEDNESDAY

Bulbs, Border, &c., Plants, at 11; Roses at 1:30 and 3-30; Azaleas, Palms, Plants, Fruit Trees, &c., at 3:30. At 67 & 68, Cheapside, E.C., by Protheroe & Morris. WEDNESDAY AND THURSDAY

Unreserved two days' Sale of the whole of the Closes Hall Collection of Orchids, at Closes Hall, Gisburne, near Clitheroe, by Protheroe & Morris, at 12.30. THURSDAY

Special Clearance Sale of Nursery Stock at the Nurseries, Eynsford, by order of Messrs. H. Cannell & Sons, by Protheroe & Morris, at 12,

the Act, and not to offer secret discounts or commissions, or to run the risk of incurring the very heavy penalties imposed by the law. At the meeting of nurserymen held on November 20 it was agreed that the provisions of the Act should be loyally obeyed. Large and representative as the meeting was, it is certain that very many of the trade were not present, and that even now many may not be aware of the very stringent provisions of the Act. If they refer to p. 279 of our issue for October 20 they will find the terms of the Act printed in full. We must again remind some of our readers who have written to us on the subject that the Act is not specially directed against nurserymen and gardeners in particular, but applies to all trades and occupations in which secret and corrupt discounts or gifts are, or have been, offered or accepted. The words "secret and "corrupt" have no terrors for the honest, straightforward man who supplies goods of adequate quality at reasonable prices. The unscrupulous man, who is reputed to have ordered more goods than were required in the hope of getting a larger discount will live in apprehension, and the merchants who offer it will assuredly suffer in reputation and public esteem even if they manage to escape the full penalties of the law.

It rests, then, with the merchants to co-operate in carrying out the law, it devolves upon the agent and the purchaser to do nothing which can be deemed either secret or corrupt. The provisions of the Act are aimed, not at individuals, but at a system which has been abundantly proved to be fraught with evil consequences.

The London Chamber of Commerce which was incorporated for the purpose of guarding the commerce of the principal city of the world, recognised that in many cases fair trading was being fettered by corrupt considerations, and promoted the Prevention of Corruption Act which, largely owing to the protracted efforts of Sir Edward Fry, the late Lord Russell of Killowen, Lord Alverstone, Lord Halsbury, and others, has duly become law. The Secret Commissions and Bribery Prevention League (58, Coleman Street) has been formed with the support of the leading members of the Secret Commissions Committee of the London Chamber of Commerce for the purpose of taking active measures for the enforcement of the Act. With this object in view the League will take every legitimate means in its power to combat the evil of secret commissions and bribery.

If co-operation on the part of the dealers is necessary it is no less so on the part of the gardeners. There are many gardeners who accept the position and receive the wages of a garden-labourer. The British Gardeners' Association is founded with the object of remedying this state of things, by offering some guarantee to the employer that the man he employs is really, and not merely nominally, a gardener, and by urging the necessity of paying the duly trained gardener at a rate commensurate with his abilities and the responsibilities incident to his position. In too many cases the gardener receives a lower salary than is accorded to other servants in the same establishment, whose attainments and responsibilities are much less. Gardeners are of necessity so isolated that, individually, they can do little, but by legitimate co-opera

tion they can, while scrupulously respecting their employers' interests, improve their own position and do away with the unwholesome competition with untrained and incompetent

men.

Roses.

we

The National Rose Society has issued a new 66 official " catalogue of Roses, which heartily commend to all Rose lovers-that is to say, to everybody. It is distributed among the members of the Society, but outsiders can

procure a copy for half-a-crown through the mediation of one of the elect. In its compilation the requirements of the ordinary Rose-grower are fully catered for, whilst the interests of the "exhibitor" are not overlooked. First of all we have a descriptive catalogue, arranged alphabetically, and with brief indications of the particular purpose for which each variety is best suited Then we have a list of Roses arranged according to the classes to which they belong-H.P., T.. H.T., &c. This is followed by selections for general cultivation, for bedding, for standards, for walls, for pillars, for pergolas, for covering banks, for edging, for pot culture, for towns, for exhibitions, &c. The most fra. grant Roses, as here enumerated, are Alfred Colomb, Camille Bernardin, Cherry Ripe, Common Provence, Dr. Andry, Dupuy Jamain, Exposition de Brie, General Jacqueminot, Heinrich Schultheis, La France, Mdme. Isaac Pereire, Maiden's Blush, Marie Baumann, Mrs. John Laing, Paul Jamain, Rosa Mundi, Senateur Vaisse, and Ulrich Brunner.

The whole list is so instructive that it will prove valuable to amateurs. There are many, perhaps the great majority, who only care for a Rose for its beauty and fragrance, but there are some few who would like to know a little more about their favourites. What constitutes a noisette? What is the difference between a T. and an H.T.? and so forth. They would like also to know why one Rose is globular, another conoid; why one Rose is quartered like the Souvenir de la Malmaison; why one has a tangled mass of petals in the centre like Gloire de Dijon, whilst another, like A. K. Williams, is symmetrical and regular in the disposition of its petals; why some petals recurve and others remain flat, or nearly so, and so forth.

A little information on such points as these would not detract from the pleasure of looking at a Rose, whilst to many they would be a source of additional interest.

To those who have followed the progressive development of a Rose from the time it is no bigger than a pin's head, till it arrives at the full size, these details are, of course, more or less familiar. The great body of rosarians have neither leisure nor opportunity to make recondite researches of this kind, but they could, and many would, appreciate a statement of the general results at which the morphologists have arrived, and which could be readily explained by means of diagrams. By their aid the "reason why" of the varied Rose forms could be set forth without entail. ing too much uninteresting toil on the Rose lover. We are rather apprehensive as to the reception these suggestions may meet with at the hands of rosarians, but as no one is obliged to adopt them we may hope for a charitable appreciation of our motives.