tions which deserve to be borne in mind, as they are many of them suggestive.

"The vegetative reproduction through a perennial mycelium is not always easy to prove, but its importance cannot be overrated, for hidden in the tissues of the plant it cannot be reached by the ordinary means for controlling the growth and spread of fungi, but involves the destruction of the plant, or at least of those parts which harbour it. As Australian examples, we may note Uromyces trifolii, which attacks the white clover, and Phragmidium sub. corticatum, or rose rust, in which the mycelium of the acidial stage penetrates all the tissues. and in each succeeding year forms a new layer beneath the old." (P. 5.)

"The indirect relation of water, or the effect of soil moisture, which acts upon the parasite through its host, has also been studied and shown to be of great importance. An abundance of soil moisture at the growing season, in the case of Asparagus rust in California, is stated to increase the vigour and vitality of the host, and retard the development of the fungus." (P. 10.)

"Arthur comes to the conclusion that the æcidium, with its accompanying spermogonia, represents the original sexual stage of the fungus, and that it still retains much of its invigorating power." (P. 17.)

"It is interesting to notice that in some cases the uredospores may be produced, not only at the surface, but within the tissues. This happened with Puccinia pruni, in a Peach fruit, where spore-beds of rust freely producing uredo. spores were imbedded in the tissue, in more or less rounded cavities, up to 5mm. below the surface. The decaying fruit would form splendid matrix for preserving the spores till next season." (P. 19.)

a

"The germination of the teleutospores of Puccinia graminis in Australia was tested under different conditions. Badly rusted straw was placed in the cool stores for three months, one portion being kept at a temperature of 4° C., and another at 18° C. A third portion of the same straw was simply kept in the open, and when tested for germination in the spring, only the spores exposed to the weather germinated." (P. 24.)

"It may be well to bear in mind that in no country in the world probably does Puccinia graminis cause as great injury to wheat as it does in Australia, a country where barberries are practically non-existent, and in which the æcidial stage has never been found." (P. 58.)

"Kirk informs me by letter that barberries are being largely used in New Zealand for hedges, but, up to the present, I have never seen any sign of acidia of P. graminis on them, although I have examined hundreds.” (P. 74.)

"Hennings has recently made observations which tend to show that plants previously sus ceptible to the attacks of a parasitic fungus may gradually become immune when they are changed to rich ground where they are better nourished and more vigorous." (P. 60.)

The above must suffice for our purpose, but there is one other, which is more personal.

"In Cooke's Handbook, published in 1892, there are only 72 recorded"; and again, "The Australian rusts recorded in the Handbook published in 1892 were 72, but the number now has reached 161." Nevertheless, he admits that "When one considers that the material had to be sent such long distances (thousands of miles), and often limited in quantity, as well as imperfectly preserved, it is surprising the number of rusts recorded, and the general accuracy of the descriptions."

In local lists we have observed that a great and rapid increase in the number of species recorded is not always evidence of progress, and may be open to suspicion. We remember some twenty years ago the process of "splitting " was applied to phanerogamic plants to an alarming extent. More recently some such process has

become apparent in fungi. It is so easily done. but always has the odour of a quack medicine. Such old species as Puccinia compositarum or Puccinia umbelliferarum afford admirable facilities for the multiplication of species. It is a suggestion worthy of consideration whether local lists could not be very rapidly extended if it were feasible to constitute a new species, amongst the Uredines, for every separate host plant.

We observe also that our author has not yet purged himself of the opinion that the intermediate form of spore, or mesospore as we have called it, in Puccinia pruni, is really only the true uredospore seen obliquely, or topsy-turvy. How true it is that

or

"Faith, fanatic faith, once wedded fast To some dear falsehood, hugs it to the last." In order to justify this contention, it may be noted that author has modified, our "amended," the diagnosis of the uredospore from the original three or four lines to double that number. The process of amending" a diagnosis, in order to bridge over a difficulty, has always been received with more of condemnation than commendation, and, if sometimes convenient, it is never scientific. M. C. C.

NECESSARY PLANT FOOD.
CONSTITUENTS.

SOME recent investigations by Mr. Albert F. Woods, of the Bureau of Plant Industry, United. States, have indicated that the element potash is necessary to the water pressure in plant-cells. This condition is one of the most important The physical requirements of plant-growth. fact that potash increases water pressure in cells would also indicate that it increases the waterabsorbing power of the plant as a whole, thereby increasing its ability to hold more effectually in times of drought the water which it has absorbed.

Po ash also increases the water-holding power of soils for the same reason, and is, therefore, most valuable from this standpoint on all sandy, porous soils. On the other hand, potash must be used with discretion on soils naturally heavy and wet, as it tends to cement the particles of soil together into hard lumps during very hot and dry weather.

Experiments have shown that a manuring of potash salts enables outdoor herbaceous plants to resist light frosts, probably by increasing the water-holding power of the plant-cells to which we have already referred, thus preventing an excessive withdrawal of the water from their tissues.

POTASH ESSENTIAL FOR MATURATION. A supply of potash in the soil hastens and When in perfects the maturation of plants. combination with phosphoric acid, the wood of fruit and other trees in particular is solidified, thus enabling them to better withstand severe winter cold. Potash is extremely essential in fruit-bud formation. Professor Webber has stated that a lack of potash causes in the Orange tree an excessive growth of weak, immature wood, which does not harden up as winter approaches, and is liable to be injured by frost.

It is further possible that potash may have an influence on the intensity of colour in flowers and fruits, especially where the intensity depends on the amount of acid present in the cell sap. The importance of varying tones of colour is well understood by florists, and the ability to slightly change a shade by the use of chemical fertilisers would be valuable not only to florists, but to fruit growers and other horticulturists. The whole question should receive careful investigation by those capable of conducting such work.

POTASH IN SOILS.

Clay soils, and particularly clay loams, usually contain about six-tenths of one per

POTASH AS MANURE.

GARDEN FLOWERS.

A lose, warm soil, rich in humus, is the first requisite for a healthy growth, a luxuriant development, and for a plentiful inflorescence of all kinds of garden flowers. But the physical condition of the soil is only one of the needful factors for successful production; the other is a vigorous and plentiful nutrition of the crops.

Plants not only differ in their power of acquiring food, but certain plants are able, because of their peculiar root system, or period of growth, to appropriate food more readily from insoluble sources than others.

Nitrogen, phosphoric acid, and potash are seldom or never present in the same variety or species of plants in the same proportions when grown in different localities. They associate themselves in the living organism not only by chemical affinities, but they are governed by many agencies, as hereditary forces in ti e plant, moisture, sunlight, heat and cold, presence or absence of an abundance of plant-food, and the ease or difficulty of securing it.

At the same time, analyses of soils and plants answer questions which could n t be obtained in any other way, and usually indicate the direction which should be taken to reach the most satisfactory results.

In regard to the production of garden-flowers, we find, as a rule, that phosphoric acid is a inuch more important const tuent than it is in the growth of kitchen vegetables.

The following table gives the proportion of phosphoric acid and of potash in the ashes of ten selected species of flowers, as analysed and recorded by Dr. A. B. Griffiths:

elements. In the case of kitchen vegetables, these proportions are reversed. This indicates the importance of a full supply of phosphoric acid in the soil if satisfactory flowering plants are to be raised.

FUNCTIONS OF PHOSPHORIC ACID IN PLANT GROWTH.

We find that the element phosphoric acid enters largely into the nutrition of the nucleus of all plant cells, and it is important to remember that the nucleus is the most highly specialised portion of every living cell, and is its controlling centre. In the absence of phos. phoric acid, the nucleus can neither grow nor divide for the production of new cells, and the growth of the plant comes, therefore, to a standstill.

Phosphoric acid is also an important constituent of the green chlorophyll bodies. The formation of sugar and starch from the carbonic acid of the air can be accomplished by plants only when the chlorophyllous matters are present. Thus the reduction of phosphoric acid in the soil below a certain amount, besides preventing growth, causes a yellowing of the foliage. Some Orange growers claim to be able to recognise phosphate starvation by the appear. ance of the young leaves. If these, when they first push out, or while they are still young and tender, present a slightly variegated appearance, mottled with light and dark green, it is claimed that they are suffering from a lack of phosphoric acid, and that if a liberal application of superphosphate, basic slag, or bone meal is applied, this appearance may be checked.

A similar mottling of the leaves of garden plants cannot always be cured by the addition of phosphates alone, it is necessary that potash be also added.

Yellowing of foliage due to the lack of iron in the soil usually shows itself first in the young leaf buds, while the older leaves may retain for a long time their normal green colour.

A lack of nitrogen in the soil is usually indi cated by much the same symptoms as are produced by a lack of phosphoric acid and iron. J. J. Willis, Harpenden.

FERN CRESTS.

Even the most casual observer at our exhibitions of towers and foliage plants must have noted how large a proportion of the Ferns exhi bited display tassels on the tips, while nothing of the sort is ever seen in the not infrequently very similar leaves of other plants. The production of these tassels is indeed a very peculiar feature, so many widely diverse species of ferns having developed them in their varietal forms, and in our native species not only have the large majority of them varied in this way, but a number have done so repeatedly and on very different lines. The tassels are produced by the midribs or midveins of the frond or its subdivisions splitting up, or rather branching into a number of minor ones, each of which carries a leafy extension with it, and, in this way, forms a bunchy or fan-like termination instead of a pointed one. This may be explained thus: each sub-division ordinarily is built up by cells, which multiply at the tip, where there is always one mother-cell, the base of which divides and sub-divides and builds up the division as it proceeds. With the tasselled forms this mothercell appears to divide not merely from the base, but also to split up terminally into other mother. rells, each one of which then proceeds to do its best to build up an independent division on its own account; result, a bunch. Leaves of flower. ing plants grow on a different plan, and cannot, therefore, become tasselled in the same way, though we have a sort of imitation of it in the Celosias and other fasciated plants, but in these a number of growing points are really engendered embryonically, and their resulting growths become eventually massed together for lack of room, while a Fern tassel only begins at

its own base and then radiates freely-a fundamental difference. The degree to which this tasselling is carried varies indefinitely. It appears frequently in what may be termed an accidental form in the shape of duplicated or partly-duplicated fronds, where the midrib has split into two branches, each then producing divisions on both sides. There is, however, no permanence in these "accidentals ; the rest of the fronds are normal, and the spore produce normal. The common Hartstongue is very apt to vary in this minor way, by p:oducing forked tips, and a quite common form, "lobatum," has the frond tip multiplied into several and in a constant form; we usually come across several of these in a day's hunting. It is, however, in the divided Terns, such as the Lady Ferns, Male Ferns, Shield Ferns, that we find this capacity for tasselling or cresting most highly developed. In the finest crested wild "sport of the Lady Fern (A. ff. cristatum Kilrush), which feil to the writer's lot in an Irish ditch, the tassels on the pinnæ or side divisions are very long, and so much sub-divided into minor strands that, by actually counting, there are innumerable divisions* in one tassel, while the huge bunch-tassel at the frond tip is also beyond counting. In this, as is usual with thoroughbreds, the pinnules, or secondary divisions, are also tasselled. In wild finds this is as far as cresting goes, but in one of the higher developed selected forms, A. f. f. percristatum superbum, it goes a step farther, for the pinnulets or divisions of the pinnules

are

dilated into tiny tassels. As all this Occurs on perfectly symmetrical lines, we have the curious fact that at definite specified stages all over the frond and at-many hundreds of points, every mother or terminal cell alters its plan of construction and breaks up into others to form a tassel instead of a point. This is characteristic of all crested forms proper, but in many varieties there occurs instead an irregu lar branching, resulting in repeatedly forked fronds varying from simple forked tips or twin fronds joined at the base to fronds which branch over and over again: in extreme forms of this kind the flat frond formation disappears entirely and the Fern becomes a bunch of ramifications. Scolopendrium v. densum Kelway, a diminutive Hartstongue, and A. f.f. unco-glomeratum, a Lady Fern, have become in this way like balls of delicate moss, with nothing truly Fern-like about them. The character of tasselling proper also varies greatly. Thus a tassel may be formed by one simultaneous division into many pointed tips without re-division (polydactylous or multiceps), the result being a flat radiation, or the divisions may split up again and again in radiating lines forming a compact fan. Both these types of division may also radiate like the tip of a lightning conductor, so as to form bunches (corymbiferous). As a rule such tassels are seen to be practically complete when the frond tips uncoil and only expand subsequently; but, in other cases, the frond and its divisions may unfold without tassels, the tips presenting merely a woolly appearance, which subsequently grows out into, it may be, crests of considerable expansion. We have, indeed, seen a crest as large as a cricket ball developed on a form of Pteris serrulata (Applebyana) from a single point by continuous growth, and forking and re-forking almost ad infinitum, the tips being apparently unable to close, as it were, the cir cuits of growth. Naturally, also, the character of the tassels corresponds with the frond type, a lax frond having lax terminals, and dense, congested ones, equally compact crests. rule, too, the divisions of a frond are really miniatures of itself, so that a frond with a large terminal tassel will bear well-tasselled pinnæ, and probably traces of cresting in the pinnules, but there are a few instances where

As a

*On examining a tassel to give the figures it baffled me, for after splitting up into about a score of strands, each of these had a bunch tassel, defying computation.

the pinnæ, and even the pinnule, are tasselled and the frond tip pointed or only slight y tasselled, and converse cases of large terminal tassel and pointed side. divisions. A curious fact in connection with crested Ferns is that although extra leafiness, i.e., abnormal expansion of the frond forming what are known as the plumose or feathery section of varieties, is accompanied by a decrease in the production of spores, the production of even abundant crests has no such effect, the crests themselves producing spores copiously. These spores, too, as a rule, reproduce the crested type, though frequently on a variable scale, i.e., more or less developed, and it is due to this fact that the Fern selective cultivator has been able to raise varieties in which the cresting is even developed than in the best wild finds. Druery, V.M.H., F.L.S.

more Chas. T.

[The repeated sub-division of the frond so remarkable in Ferns, and doubtless connected with the forked venation characteristic of these plants, is sometimes seen in other plants, such as Kales, Parsley, a particular variety of Anemone japonica, and various water plants where the venation is of a different character. These examples, however, says MrDruery, differ in character from cristate types, and are only akin to the plumose forms of Ferns, in which the extra foliose character is produced by an abnormal continuance of furcate venation carrying the tissues with it. In the Anemone especially the

leaf seems incapable of forming a definite terminal growth, and continues developing at the edges until the growing season closes.-ED.]

THE USE OF THE HOE. IT is against the interests of any grower of an outdoor crop to allow the ground he culti vates to remain untouched by the hoe for any length of time. The advice usually given in country districts to "hoe when there are no weeds, you are sure to do so when there are," is worth remembering, for whilst the secondary use of the hoe is to keep down weeds, its primary value is to keep the surface of the ground moved. Frequent hoeings during dry weather are equal, if not superior, to a mulching, as the 2 inches deep of surface that is broken and powdered up by constant stirring acts as a mulch and serves to keep the ground cool and moist below. A piece of ground that is not frequently hoed during the summer scon becomes very dry and hard, and if there is a moderately long spell of drought the crop on it soon becomes yellow and starved-looking, due partly to the want of moisture, and in a greater degree to the lack of aeration in the soil. By keeping the surface stirred as deeply as possible with the hoe, the subsoil moisture is drawn upwards by capillary attraction for the benefit of the roots; heavy rains are more easily absorbed by the soil, and the ground becomes aerated and sweetened to the benefit of the crop.

The cost of regular hoeing is an important item, but this is paid for by the increased value of the crop. The cheapest way is to hoe by piece-work at so much per acre, the price vary. ing according to the hardness of the ground and the amount of weeds on it. On light soils the highest price is about £1 per acre, the lowest about 8s.; but on heavy lands the prices may be about 25 per cent. higher. The average cost for a season in the former case works out at £3 to £3 10s. per acre, though the cost may be higher or lower according to the season. This may seem a big price to pay for keeping an acre of ground clean, but it must always be borne in mind that it is not only by the keeping down of weeds, but by increasing the value of the crops, that it more than compensates for the cost of cultivating of the ground.

The benefits of regular hoeing, however, depend to a great extent upon the person using the hoe, and also upon the nature of the ground. The latter has much to do with the manner in which hoeing can be done, heavy, clayey lands

case.

being more difficult to deal with than light, sandy soil, though the benefits to be derived from frequent hoeings are the same in each On sandy or gravelly soils the hoe can be used at almost any time, even just after rain; but on close, stiff land, time must be allowed for the water to get away after heavy showers, or the ground will be puddled into a sticky mass unfit for anything. If, however, it is allowed to become too dry after rain before being hoed, it will get so hard that the hoe can make but little impression on it. If cut over with the hoe while it is damp, but not too wet, the ground can be hoed as deeply as possible, breaking all lumps to pieces at the same time, and so forming 2 or 3 inches of fine loose soil on the top, upon which the hoe can play at any time, whether it is dry or not.

Whatever the nature of the ground may be, the first hoeing of the season is an important one, for if this be properly done the ground will be loose and easy for any future working. This is where the personal element comes in, a deep and thorough hoeing being of the utmost importance, and though it may appear a simple thing, deep and regular hoeing is a task that can only be performed well after constant prac tice. This refers to the use of the draw-hoe, which is the only one that can be used to advantage on large stretches of land. The Dutch-hoe is useful for small gardens, but there is a danger that its constant use will form a hard crust just below the inch or two of surface soil, especially in heavy, or moderately heavy, ground. The draw-hoe, on the contrary, if properly used, breaks the ground differently each time it is used, to the benefit of the crop.

It follows, then, that if the hoe is our best cultivator, care should be taken that it is constantly used, especially during dry weather, always remembering that, as before-stated, the killing of weeds is the secondary consideration, the loosening and stirring of the surface soil being the first. J. C.

THE ALPINE GARDEN.

ASPERULA HIRTA.

THE charming little Asperula hirta is in bloom as this is written. It forms one of the most charming of Alpine flowers, and looks exceed. ingly pretty with its densely-tufted, deep green foliage spangled over with little heads of flowers of a rosy white. When grown in "hard" conditions it is exceedingly neat, and appears less liable to decay than under those frequently recommended for it. Here it is being cultivated on a high and fully-exposed part of my rock garden, sheltered from no wind, and fully exposed to the sun, as well as in a poor, hard and stony soil, such as one finds is appreciated by many Alpines in our moist climate.

It is topdressed, however, with well-decayed turf from the top-spit of very old pasture, and it seems to like this medium in which to form fresh roots. I have cultivated it under conditions which apFeared to be more likely to suit, and gave it peat, loam and grit, with shelter from the north and east, and more frequent supplies of water than it has had this year; but it was never healthier or better flowered than it is at present. This little Woodruff is a native of the Pyrenees, and seems, in the drier parts of our islands, to require a moister position than in others. It was introduced in 1817. It is not widely grown, but should be sought after. I should prefer to plant it in July or August to any other time, giving it some shade when newly planted.

THREE NEW RAMONDIAS. THREE new Ramondias deserve some notice, notwithstanding that they have not as yet attained sufficient size to show their true character, although all are in flower here at present. They are understood to come from an entirely dif ferent district from that in which the other Ramondias in cultivation have been found.

One of the best of the three has been named R. quercifolia, from the fancied resemblance of the leaves to those of one or other of the Oaks. It requires some effort of imagination to dis-cover any near resemblance, save in the general

cutline; but they are, to some extent, lobed, and differ from those of the other Ramondias in form. The flowers are more like those of R. serbica Nathalie than would please those who wish a more distinct plant, and in this respect are not sufficiently different except to those particularly interested in the genus.

R. leucopetala is another of these forms, and its chief distinction lies in the colouring of the flowers, although these come near some seedling forms of R. pyrenaica alba. They are pale lilac, with what may be described as streakings or shadings" of white or paler lilac. The foliage is smaller and less lobed than that of R. quercifolia.

In R. peregrina we have one whose name would lead one to infer that it has a somewhat running habit; but we are not yet in a position to judge as to this, and can only speak of the plant as it appears at present. Its leaves are the smallest of the three, and its flowers, which have been smaller than those of the two preceding, are the deepest in colour of the three, being probably best described by the term deep purple.

It must, of course, be kept in mind that these brief and general descriptions are from pot plants which have only been in my possession for a couple of months or so, and time may modify my impressions of their character. In foliage they come more nearly to R. pyrenaica than to R. serbica, and it is highly probable that they will be recognised by botanists as simply forms of that species. A few plants of R. quercifolia were included in the magnificent exhibit of Messrs. Cutbush at the Temple Show, but they were not shown conspicuously, and probably escaped the attention of many. S. Arnott, Sunnymead, Dumfries,

June 14.

THE HARDY FLOWER GARDEN.

HYBRID BELL-FLOWERS.

IT would be valuable if Mr. E. Horton, who contributes the very interesting notes on hybrid Bell-flowers on p. 410, would give the authority for the parentage of some of the crossbred plants which he names. C. x Hendersoni, for example, is, without qualification, stated to have resulted from the crossing of C. carpatica and C. alliariæfolia, but in the earlier editions of his Dictionary of Gardening Mr. Geo. Nicholson cites C. carpatica and C. pyramidalis as the parents. At a much later date the Kew Hand List gives the same data as Mr. Horton; hence there is reasonable room for doubt. My own knowledge of the plant compels me to adopt the parentage given by Mr. Nicholson, for in the leafage, the greater length of the petioles, and the disposition to form a more than usually woody rootstock, combined with the form of the flowers and the glistening character often seen thereon, are evidences, I think, of the influence of C. pyramidalis. The dwarf habit of the hybrid would suggest C. carpatica as the seed parent. If, however, C. alliariæfolia is one of its parents, such important features as the hoary tomentum, the type of inflorescence, the form of the flowers, and much of the form, as well as the leaf substance, have all been obliterated, which is unusual. For five years in succession I tried to raise a plant from C. carpatica turbinata x C. pyramidalis, and the plant I had hoped to obtain was a dwarfer one than C. x Fergusoni. Imagine my surprise when the only seedling I obtained worth saving was a plant so dissimilar from either parent that one might have imagined it to be a cross between C. pulla and C. rotundifolia. I named it C. x Profusion, in reference to its free-flowering character. In referring to C. x Balchiniana, your correspondent casts a doubt, as I think, wisely, upon the parentage given; and I have no hesitation in saying that I regard this as being no cross-bred plant at all, but simply a well-marked seedling variation. With consider. able frequency this plant, or a portion thereof, loses all its variegated character, and assumes what is almost a replica of C. fragilis hirsuta, a variety known and grown thirty-five years ago. There was also a very hirsute form of C. Barrellieri, a plant of freer growth and with larger blossoms than those of C. fragilis. When C. x Mayi first appeared, the distinctly soft

and woolly leaves caused much speculation as to their origin, for neither C. fragilis nor C. isophylla the reputed parents-possessed such leaf characters. I made the following remark that: "If C. fragilis had aught to do with its origin, it was more likely to be through its variety hirsuta than the type." I can see no evidence in this remarkable plant of any influ ence of C. fragilis. The leaf formation, the petioles, the more abundant habit of growth, the size and form of the flowers, and even the whitish external colouration of the ovarybluish in C. fragilis-all these characters, together with a profuseness of flowering never seen in C. fragilis, point unmistakably to C. isophylla; moreover, there is nothing of the brittle character of C. fragilis in the handsome plant we know as C. x Mayi.

In Van Houtte's Bell-flower there is good external evidence of a plant of hybrid origin, and one has but to recall the stoloniferous shoots of the hybrid to connect it with such a plant as C. punctata, while the slender habit also suggests this species as a parent, although I more than suspect C. latifolia in some form or another of playing a small part in its origin.

In the genus Campanula a rare opportunity is afforded the enthusiastic hybridist, and the rock garden is as open as the herbaceous border to receive good additions of these plants. Readers not having prior experience should know that the anthers in the genus Campanula shed their pollen before the corolla opens. Hence the need for early emasculation and subsequent protec tion. E. H. Jenkins, Hampton Hill.

The Week's Work.

THE FLOWER GARDEN.

By HUGH A. PETTIGREW, Gardener to the Earl of PLYMOUTH, St. Fagan's Castle, Glamorganshire.

Care of hardy flowers.-Though some gar deners have the idea that after planting there is very little further to be done in connection with this class of plants, it

is a mistaken one, for, unless the border is attended to both with care and regularity, no matter in what manner it has been arranged, it soon becomes disappointing. At the present

moment there is much to be done on the borders, staking some of the taller-growing plants such as Hollyhocks, Phlox decussata, Gladiolus, Lavatera, etc., which should be done neatly and effectually, and in pegging down others, such as Phlox Drummondii, Verbenas, etc., thinning out the growths of strong growers, cutting off flowers that are over, and keeping the whole border free from weeds. Besides this, many plants require a little special treatment, according to the weather that is experienced. For instance, the Calochortus and Portulacca murus blooms should all be guarded from the fare badly when the soil is soddened, and Ereeffects of the rain to keep them in perfection, while, on the contrary, if dry weather is long continued, watering must be resorted to if certain plants are to be sustained in good condition. Again, in addition to the above, arrangements should be always made for filling up gaps that may occur, either by planting out plants that are being reserved in pots, or resow. ing by some quick-growing annual, according to circumstances. The present and two following months are wonderfully rich in hardy flowers, and during this time the borders ought to be most interesting and attractive.

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

By J. GIBSON, Gardener to His Grace the Duke of PORTLAND, Welbeck Abbey, Notts. Peas. The present season has been a good one for this crop generally, and late Peas promise to be remarkably good. The dry weather, however, if continued much longer, will give cause for anxiety. Plenty of water should be applied at the root and overhead as often as possible. Much more good is done by syringing than is apparent, and if this work is not done, the Pea moth will have every opportunity of puncturing the pods and depositing its eggs; but syringing would dislodge many moths, and so hinder them. The damage done by moths can easily be seen in the pale-green spots on the little pods, and they increase in size as the pods continue to grow. Peas from the latest sowings should be staked early, but at this

season of haymaking, etc., certain items of importance are apt to escape notice until it is too late to remedy the evil. Apply a mulch of long litter or lawn mowings between the lines at the same time.

Leeks. Plant the main crop of Leeks as soon as the ground can be got into suitable condition. When liiting them for transplanting trim the roots and tops, and dibble them in deeply in lines drawn at one foot apart, allowing a space of six inches between the plants. Ground from which early crops of Potatos have been taken can be profitably used for Leeks. Those required for exhibition will need earthing up from ume to time until the stem for about 15 inches is blanched. The earlier this can be done the better, as the more time will be allowed for the stems to thicken. Do not allow any soil to tail in between the leaves, as this cannot be readily got out, and is sure to show itself at a ume when nothing of the kind should be ap parent. Abundant overhead waterings are alvantageous, therefore Leeks grow quickly in autumn when there are heavy dews in the morning.

Ce.erias. Encourage the plants to make good growth by applying a top-dressing, and occasional doses of 1.quid manure. In order to get fine roots, run the finger round the tieshy part so as to reduce the number of rootlets, when a better and more uniform head will be the result. This is best done when the heads begin to form and when quite young.

Late Savoys are generally of more value than the earlier crop, owing to the scarcity of other vegetables at the time. Make a separate plantation of these as soon as convenient, choosing a hardy, late variety.

Salading Onions.-Make a small sowing of these periodically, as they are very useful in salads. Any surplus seed may be used up in this way through the season.

Chicory.-Complete the thinning of this crop without delay if it has not been done already, as nothing is more injurious to vegetables of this class that depend on their summer development for their later success than the crowding of them together.

Weeds. The dry weather has been suitable for the destruction of weeds, and it is necessary for all crops to be kept thoroughly clean and the soil well worked between the lines.

THE HARDY FRUIT GARDEN. By W. A. COOK, Gardener to Sir EDMUND G. Loder, Bart., Leonardslee, Sussex.

are

Early Peach and Nectarine trees that ripening crops should be given a good watering and some approved fertiliser should be employed. If the trees have been supplied with waterings from the farmyard tanks, they will be swelling their fruits rapidly. Do not syringe the foliage after the fruits commence to ripen. The first variety to ripen is generally Amsden June, closely followed by Waterloo. All early Peaches are unsatisfactory if not severely thinned, there being too much "stone" and too little flesh. Gathering needs to be done with exceeding care, taking them in the palm of the hand, or the fruits will be bruised. Place the fruits in a box or basket containing some fine wood-wool, which is the best material on which to convey them to the fruit room. The shelves in the fruit room should also be covered with a layer of this material. Nectarines do not ripen quite so early as Peaches-Earl Rivers and Cardinal are the earliest varieties, and these are followed closely by Lord Napier.

Strawberries.-Layer runners for subsequent planting out of door, and if sufficiently early they will bear excellent fruits next season; in these gardens we get the finest Strawberries from such plants.

Summer Pruning.-Persevere with the summer pruning of Apple and Pear trees, thinning out the fruits at the same time. The Apple crop being very heavy needs much thinning, or the fruits will be small in size and of bad shape. Large culinary varieties should only have the centre fruit left in each cluster. Blenheim Pippin should be well thinned, as should Cox's Orange, and Ribston Pippins, Peasgood's Nonsuch, Bismarck, Bramley's Seedling, Gascoyne's Scarlet Seedling, and others of the same type. The smaller varieties ought also to be thinned, if only to allow each fruit to become of a proper shape. In all cases where it is possible let

trees bearing heavy crops be afforded manure water or a chemical manure.

Bush Fruit.--Gather all small fruits as Currants, Raspberries, etc., as they become fit for bottling or preserving purposes. The fruit should be in a dry condition at the time of gathering. On very light soils Gooseberries need frequent waterings, and occasionally with diluted farmyard manure water.

THE ORCHID HOUSES.

By W. H. WHITE, Orchid Grower to Sir TREVOR Lawrence, Bart., Burford, Surrey.

Odontoglossum citrosmum.-Now that the flowering season of this species is past, the plants may be repotted or top-dressed, as each may require. Shallow pans are suitable for them, and, being suspended, the flower spikes, which are pendulous, are seen to the best advantage. As a rule the growths produce but few roots, therefore the pans should be small in proportion to the size of the plants, ample drainage should be afforded, and the rooting medium may consist of peat and sphagnum-moss, with a handful of small crocks mixed in to keep it porous. It is advisable to pot rather firmly, as by so doing the pseudo-bulbs retain their plumpness better during the season of rest than if the materials are loose. Suspend the plants to the roof of the Cattleya or Mexican house in a light, well-ventilated position. Afford water carefully till the new growths and roots are fully active, but afterwards let abundance of water be given until growth is fully made up.

Cattleyas.-C. Dowiana, C. D. aurea, C. Gaskelliana, C. labiata and C. guttata Leopoldi have made considerable progress with their new growths, and many flower sheaths are noticeable. While in this stage care should be taken that water is not allowed to remain in the growths. The plants will require considerable water at the root until the flowers are open when less will suffice. Such Cattleyas as C. Mendeli, C. Mossiæ, C. Skinneri, C. intermedia, C. Lawrenceana, C. Schröderæ and C. Warneri, also many hybrid Cattleyas, Lælias, Lælio-Cattleyas, &c., will require attention as regards repotting, &c., full instructions for which were fully given in my Calendar for May 5, p. 278. Plants of Cattleya gigas may also be repotted when they have passed out of bloom, as very soon after this the current season's growth will send out from their base a large number of roots that will at once enter the new potting compost, and thereby become quickly re-established. This work should not be delayed, as after the roots start, any disturbance of the compost is attended with danger.

Lalia purpurata and L. tenebrosa should be placed in a cool, well ventilated part of the house, affording just sufficient water at the roots to keep the pseudo-bulbs plump, but nothing should be done that will induce the growths to start, as the earlier growths are seldom satisfactory, whereas the late summer and autumn growths are stronger, and invariably produce flower sheaths at the proper season. Lælia Dormaniana, L. Perrini, L. elegans and Lælio-Cattleya Schilleriana may be repotted if necessary, afterwards affording them generous treatment. Cattleya Bowringiana has begun to make new growths and should be elevated well up to the light, and where there is a good circulation of air. The plant should not be disturbed now, the proper time for repotting being soon after the flowering stage, as it is then that the new pseudo-bulbs produce most roots.

PLANTS UNDER GLASS.

By B. CROMWELL, Gardener to T. SUTTON TIMMIS, Esq., Cleveley, Allerton, Liverpool.

Need for top dressings.-Any specimen plants which have not been repotted for a season, whose roots are in a healthy and active condition, would (in most cases) derive much benefit from a top dressing with decayed COW manure and the siftings of charcoal and sand. The young roots would soon push into this material, and plants advancing in the flowering stages would show a marked improvement from this increase of root action.

Hard wooded plants out of doors.-Although a sheltered position has been chosen, a little extra care will be necessary in securing such plants as Azaleas, Heaths, Camellias, and greenhouse Rhododendrons from the effects of strong winds. If stood on a bed of coal ashes and made perfectly level, they may be safely ensured by driving down three strong stakes suffi. ciently deep in the ground and close to the rim

of the pot; this should be done as each plant is placed in position, and there will then be no further need for anxiety. Syringing with water overhead each day will keep the surroundings cool during hot, dry weather. The plants generally will then be improved by the outdoor treatment. Spray the plants occasionally with XL-All insecticide, as thrips are usually troublesome on plants placed outside. Considerable care is needed to prevent greenhouse Rhododendrons that have completed their growth from starting again; they are much more liable. to do this than either Azaleas or Camellias, and although they enjoy a liberal quantity of water at their roots, they should not be allowed to become saturated either from the water pot or

heavy rains. Lapagerias may also be placed out of doors in a shady position, and as they are now approaching their flowering stage, the substance and colour of the flowers will be improved; afford water freely to the roots, and a weak stimulant may be applied at every alternate watering.

General remarks.-Now that most of the plants have been repotted, the work in the houses will consist of the tying and staking of plants, and in keeping everything in a state of perfect cleanliness. In the staking of plants use stakes which have been previously painted, and as few of these as possible, so that the plants may have a natural appearance of growth. Bamboo canes can be had in various sizes, and are the most economical to use, hence there is no excuse for having plants roughly staked. Propagate the young growths of choice varieties of Pelargoniums by placing them singly in small pots, and putting them in a frame in which the atmospheric temperature is 55 to 60 during. the day; afford a little ventilation at night, and see that the cuttings are kept free from aphis.

FRUITS UNDER GLASS.

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By T. W. BIRKINSHAW, Gardener to Lt.-Col. Sir CHAS HAMILTON, Bart., Hatley Park, Bedfordshire. Tomatos. The first batch that was planted in. the final pots in the early part of February and have since grown in a warm house will now have finished fruiting. If plants are infested with the white fly, they should be carefully cut out and taken to the fire heap. Any fruits. that are still green may be cut and placed on shelves in a warm house to ripen; they will be. very useful for the making of soups, &c. Successional plants succeed much better when planted out in narrow borders, even in wooden boxes made about 8 inches deep, a foot wide, and 3 or 4 feet long, according to the amount of space at disposal. Plants that have set their fruits should now be given a top dressing of loam, with a little bone meal mixed with it. Tomatos are very fond of bone meal, also diluted liquid manure, and soot water occasionally. Continue to keep all side growths pinched out, and when the fruits are ripening, some of the foliage should be cut away, in order that air may the better circulate about the plants. Those plants at present in flower may be given a gentle tapping each day, to assist the distribution of the pollen, and therefore the pollination of the flowers. Some varieties set their fruit much more freely than others; such, for instance, as Duke of York, Vick's Criterion, Northern Beauty, and The Peach. "The Peach is delicious for dessert, but is only small in size. If good-sized Tomatos are required for exhibition purposes, the bunches should be thinned out freely while in their early stages of growth.

Strawberries.-Young plants that were layered into 3-inch pots early last month should now be in such a condition that they may be severed from the mother plants without suffering injury. They should be brought from the beds and be placed on the sides of the garden paths, or, if it is very hot, plunged in fine ashes. In this position they will succeed very well until they are ready for putting into the pots in which they will fruit.

Cape Gooseberries.-It ample accommodation exists in the fruit houses, these should beplanted out at once. But where room is limited a few can be grown in 9 or 10-inch pots, using rather poor soil, or the plants might make too much growth, but set very few fruits. The fruits are very pretty when ripe, and the flavour is somewhat peculiar. The plants require plenty of sun, light, air, and water.

EDITORIAL NOTICE.

ADVERTISEMENTS should be sent to the PUB. LISHER, 41, Wellington Street, Covent Garden, w.c. Letters for Publication, as well as specimens and plants for naming, should be addressed to the EDITOR, 41, Wellington Street, Covent Garden, London. Communications should be WRITTEN ON ONE SIDE ONLY OF THE PAPER, Sent as early in the week as possible, and duly signed by the writer. If desired, the signature will not be printed, but kept as a guarantee of good faith. Special Notice to Correspondents.-The Editor does not undertake to pay for any contributions or illustrations, or to return unused communications or illustrations, unless by special arrangement. The Editor does not hold himself responsible for any opinions expressed by his correspondents. Illustrations. - The Editor will be glad to receive and to select photographs or drawings, suitable for reproduction, of gardens, or of remarkable plants, flowers, trees, &c., but ne cannot be responsible for loss or injury. Newspapers.-Correspondents sending newspapers should be careful to mark the paragraphs they wish the Editor to see. Local News.-Correspondents will greatly oblige by sending to the Editor early intelligence of local events likely to be of interest to our readers, or of any matters which it is desirable to bring under the notice of horticulturists

the once noble Cedars are spectral monuments of bygone stateliness. But on a fine July day and on such an occasion there is no need to dwell upon anything but the excellence of the show and the beauty and interest of its surroundings, From the full report given on another page it will be seen that the great summer show of the R.H.S. was as attractive as any of its predecessors, although we cannot indicate any particular exhibit as standing out prominently by reason of its novelty or interest. The ordinary flower-show visitor, however, would not have noticed the deficiency, so entrancing was the feast of beauty laid out for his delectation.

was

The luncheon given by the council to the members of the several committees and the judges a pleasant function. The friendly gathering and the recognition thus afforded by the governing body of the disinterested labours of the committees all through the year do much to promote mutual understanding and

AVERAGE TEMPERATURE for the ensuing week, deduced from observations of Forty-three Years at Chiswick-63 4ACTUAL TEMPERATURES:LONDON.-Wednesday, July 11 (6 P.M.): Max. 68°; Min. 532.

Gardeners' Chronicle Office, 41, Wellington Street,

Covent Garden, London.-Thursday, July 12
(10 A.M.): Bar., 301; Temp., 65; Weather-
Fine.
PROVINCES.-Wednesday, July 11 (6 P.M.): Max. 61°
England, South-east; Min. 54° Ireland, North-

Holland Park has one great The Summer advantage over the Temple Show of in the greater space availthe Royal Horticultural abie, and, consequently, in Society. the enhanced comfort of exhibitors, exhibits, and visitors. The R.H.S. is thus under a great obligation to Mary Countess of Ilchester for the privilege of holding its show in the paddock fronting the picturesque and historic mansion known as Holland House. The Temple is rich in historic associations, but it may be doubted whether the average flowershow visitor pays much heed to far-off abstractions of that kind At Holland Park the open space and the delightfully picturesque mansion compel attention, even from the most thoughtless. Entering direct from the busy thoroughfare of the Kensington Road to the avenue of Elms with an undergrowth of Foxgloves, Campion and the ripening capsules of the Wood Hyacinth, it is impossible for the moment for the visitor to realise that he is still in the midst of London. At this season the foliage is attractive, but a second glance shows only too plainly that the trees have passed their best and that the Elms are experiencing the effect of London atmosphere and excessive drainage, whilst

exchanged between the resident, as the mouthpiece of the Council, and the representatives of the committees and judges, as voiced by Sir Michael Foster, Sir John Llewelyn, and Mr. Challis, those congratulations were amply justified.

The Meteorological Society had an interest. ing exhibition hard by, but we venture to think that anyone conversant with the affairs of the R.H.S. would hardly need to inspect the instruments to realise that for the present the indications are "set fair."

But the Meteorological Society's display did not constitute the only collateral subject of interest. By the thoughtful kindness of Mary Countess of Ilchester the private gardens of Holland House were thrown open for the inspection of visitors on payment of a small fee, the proceeds of which are to be devoted to the gardening charities. Judging from the numbers of persons we saw availing themselves of this privilege, the charities should benefit substantially, and, as to the visitors, they must have been obtuse indeed if they were not charmed with the delicious oldworld garden, and the varied outlines of the grey mansion, with its gables and turrets, its projecting bays and deep recesses. How often have we heard the lament that it is impossible to grow Roses in London? Those who saw the long double border of Caroline Testout Rose in full beauty in the garden at Holland House were literally amazed, and the wonder was not confined to the casual visitor, but found expression even from expert cultivators, whose experience is gained in country parks and gardens far removed from the untoward climatal surroundings entailed by a London atmosphere. Holland House gardens, too, furnish an object-lesson to controversialists prone to wrangle over the comparative merits of the formal and the natural style of gardening. We do not think the most rabid opponent of the formal style could object to the quaint Elizabethan flowerbeds so thoroughly in keeping with the architectural features around them, nor can we conceive the most ardent devotee of formalism finding ought to object to in the shrubbery walks, the dells, and other features of this delightful garden lying between the vast highways of the Hammersmith Road on the one side and the Bayswater Road on the other. Flower shows come and go and repeat themselves, but the charm of a house and garden like Holland House is perennial and persistent.

OUR SUPPLEMENTARY ILLUSTRATION this week shows how a flat, monotonous surface may be broken up and converted into a rocky, fernlined dell through which a cascade comes tumbling over the rocks as if to the manner born. The "formal" gardener may scoff at the artificial dell and the sham rocks. Let him indulge his artistic taste if he will, but let him not attempt to deprive others of efforts which are in every way as charming as those of the best designed terrace garden. We do not know what were the conditions in the Torquay garden, shown in our illustration, before Messrs. PULHAM took it in hand, but our readers can see for themselves what a beauty spot they have created, and the gardener and the botanist can readily appreciate the opportunity offered for the protection and culture of their favourite plants.

THE BOTANICAL MAGAZINE.-The July number contains coloured illustrations of the following plants :

EUPHORBIA PROCUMBENS (Miller), tab. 8,082.— A very curious dwarf Spurge with short, thick, succulent, spineless stem and numerous spreading branches, short, curved, subulate leaves, and heads of yellow flowers, provided with scarlet, kidney-shaped glands. The figure is taken from a plant in the collection of Mr. JUSTUS CORDEROY, here described by Mr. N. E. BROWN.

thick

DEUTZIA WILSONI (Duthie), tab. 8,083.—A handsome species collected for Messrs. VEITCH in Western China by Mr. WILSON. The leaves are broadly lanceolate, sharply toothed; the numerous white flowers are terminal, much branched panicles.

PAPHIOPEDILUM GLAUCOPHYLLUM (J. J. Smith), tab. 8,084.-A species allied to P. (Cypripedium) Chamberlainianum, but differing in its broader, self-coloured, glaucescent leaves and pubescent petals. It is a native of Java. The plant figured flowered at Kew, and is described by Mr. ROLFE. GURANIA MALACOPHYLLA (Barbosa Rodrigues), tab. 8,085.-A climbing, tendril-bearing Cucurbit, with soft, cordate, ovate leaves, and heads of scarlet flowers on long axillary stalks. The specimen was sent to Kew by Mr. ED. ANDRE, who originally described the plant in the Revue Horticole 1901, p. 388, as G. eriantha, but G. eriantha, as pointed out by Mr. SPRAGUE, has spicate, not globose inflorescence.

GENISTA CINEREA (De Candolle). tab. 8086.—A shrub, native of the West Mediterranean region, with ascending, slender, silky branches, and linear leaves. The papilionaceous flowers are yellow and disposed along the ends of the branches; Kew. The plant is described by Dr. STAPF.

THE TEMPLE SHOW.-The average Briton is aware of his lack of taste in decoration, and of his inability to compete with Frenchmen and Belgians in this particular. The Revue de l'Horticulture Belge takes exception to the arrangement of the exhibits of the Temple Show, where, although space is so precious, far more variety might be introduced in the staging and grouping. The exhibition of this year," says the writer, "differed but little from its predecessors. The tents in their old places, the same arrangements of the exhibits, all show no desire to produce a good general effect. In this respect the shows of the Société Nationale d'Horticulture de France and the Ghent Quinquennials are far in advanc、. The English are men of business essentially and expose their exhibits to attract clients. If their plants were arranged more tastefully and artistically and temptingly it would be a gain to trade exhibitors. What is especially required is a larger and more suitable exhibition ground, as the number of entries increases yearly." We must all acknowledge the justice of these criticisms, the more so, as we know, more fully than our Belgian contemporaries can do, the reasons for the deficiencies he points out.