Page images
PDF
EPUB

plainly discern in the full moonlight, and perceived the worship which we shall see this Good Friday evening, scarcely less idolatrous than that of wild Africans to a Fetish,-should we not hear his voice wailing again over the city,

[ocr errors][merged small][merged small]

CHAPTER XI.

IDOLATRY.

"Thy Silver is become dross, thy Wine is mixed with water." THE Rev. Dr. Duck declined to go to the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, this Good Friday evening, to see the "Romish mummeries." He had been attending evening prayer at the English chapel upon Mount Zion, and had been kneeling and praying, "From pride, envy, malice, and all uncharitableness, Good Lord deliver us!" Between the courses at dinner, he blandly exposed the "absurd Romish traditions of the sacred spots in and around Jerusalem."

Among other doubts, he had disputed the authenticity of the tomb at Bethany, called the tomb of Lazarus. "I have been to-day to Bethany," said the Rev. Dr. Duck, "and I saw there the cave which the Romanists call the tomb of Lazarus. It is an excavation in the rock, and

we descended several steps before we reached the spot where Lazarus is said to have lain. But, my dear sir, how very absurd to suppose that this could have been the tomb mentioned in holy Scripture, for our Saviour is distinctly stated to have said,—' Lazarus, come forth.' Now would he have used that word if he had meant come up

?" This reasoning sufficed to the Rev. Dr. Duck's mind to destroy the identity of the traditional religious places. Decidedly he could not go to see the "Romish mummeries."

But as we passed into the court of the house, upon our way thither, we heard the Rev. Dr. Duck reading aloud to his family. And these were the words he read.

"The Pharisee stood and prayed thus with himself. God I thank thee, that I am not as other men are, extortioners, unjust, adulterers, or even as this Publican :

"And the Publican standing afar off, would not lift up so much as his eyes unto heaven, but smote upon his breast, saying,-God be merciful to me a sinner!"

The Church of the Holy Sepulchre is possessed by the Latins, Greeks, Armenians, Copts, and Abyssinians. The Greeks are the richest, and are under the immediate protection of Russia, and

they monopolise all the best places in the church, except the Sepulchre itself. The exterior of the building is Byzantine. The interior has no architectural pretension or beauty. The whole middle space is enclosed, forming a church within a church, and the inclosure is the Greek chapel. In front of this is the small temple built around the Sepulchre itself, and upon the sides of the Greek chapel are broad passages in which are shown several spots of traditional interest-as that where the Post of Flagellation stood-which post you may see, and that where the clothing was divided. Finally, you ascend a steep staircase and reach a small upper chapel, which is Calvary, and a circular spot under the altar is the exact site of the cross.

The interior of the church is bare and desolate. The scant and dirty hangings and trappings, the miserable pictures, the soiled artificial flowers, the entire dearth of grace and delicacy are very mournful. There is not a solemn spot in the building, but the tomb itself. A motley crowd is constantly swarming through the passages, and there is the perpetual scuffling of many feet and the hum of hushed voices. The finest figures are the Bedoueen from the desert, who stand in postures of natural grace and dignity, and who, with the flowing robes and brilliant Mecca handkerchiefs,

wreathed around their heads, make the only picturesque and pleasing groups.

The Greek pilgrims are the most numerous, and entirely surpass the Latin in the fervour of their devotions. I have never seen anything so abject as their conduct before the altar in the Calvary chapel. You can scarcely recognise them as men, so sunken do they look in degraded ignorance. Their genuflexions are remarkable for their magical suppleness. They stand, rapidly repeating prayers before the altar, and then fall to their knees, and upon their faces, touching their foreheads, and kissing the floor. Then up again, and down, with incredible celerity. This continues sometimes for a half-hour, and they then stroll away through the church, buying crosses, beads, and mother-ofpearl shells made at Bethlehem.

Directly under the dome of the church, is the Sepulchre itself. It is enclosed in a small temple, divided into two parts, of which the first is an ante-room, and the other a small cabinet, in which is the marble tomb. The ante-room is hung with lamps, and a priest stands at the door, shuffling the crowds of worshippers to and fro, and taking snuff in the intervals. But he has great respect for persons; for when we appeared, although he said that we were heretics, he hustled an unwashed

« PreviousContinue »