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New Patterns for French-Chain Work.

La Belle Assemblée N44.

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FASHIONS

For MAY, 1809.

EXPLANATION OF THE PRINTS OF FASHION.

ENGLISH COSTUME.

No. 1-WALKING, OR CARRIAGE COSTUME. A fine cambric round gown, with high collar, finished with needle-work and scolloped Jace; a correspondent trimming round the bottom of the dress. A Spanish spenser of black or puce-coloured velvet, edged with gold face. A waistcoat or wrap front of marble, or leopard satin, with collar the same as the spenser, edged also with gold lace. The Vigonian helmet, or Patriotic bonnet, composed of the same materials; the helmet edged with gold lace, and the crown crossed with gold cord, terminating on one side with a cone tassel. Hoop earrings of wrought gold; necklace of variegated amber; gloves, York-tan, and half boots of tan-coloured kid, laced with

black cord.

No. 2.—EVENING, OR FULL DRESS.

A Spartan robe, with demi-train, of pale blue or grey crape, worn over a white satin slip, ornamented round the bottom and up the front and back seam with gold or silver lace; triangular front, back, and sleeves, formed of the same trimming, and terminating on each shoulder with a topaz or gold brooch; long sleeve of transparent net, or gold tissue, in oblique stripes. Oriental armlets, and bracelets of topaz or wrought gold; earrings and necklace en suite. Spartan cap, with Persian diadem, composed of varied gems; an ostrich and heron's feather placed towards one side, and drooping over the front of the head-dress. The hair in irregular curls on the forehead, and cropped close behind. A Carthage cymar, or scarf of double shot Spanish silk, suspended gracefully from one shoulder and crossing the skirt of the figure behind, is confined towards the front by the natural disposition of the adverse hand. This graceful appendage is

No. XLIV. Vol. V↓,

edged occasionally with full scalloped lace, a binding of silver, or a border of tambour in happily contrasted shades. The boadoir, or toilet mirror, is intended to display the tasteful effect of this costume on the adverse front of the figure.—This robe is furnished by the Misses Walthers, No. 75, Margaret-street, Cavendishsquare.

GENERAL OBSERVATIONS

ON THE MOST APPROVED
FASHIONS FOR THE SEASON.

THE effects of Spring's genial influence has, in a great measure, heen counteracted by the late cold winds and rains, which have confined our fair fashionables to their carriages. and drawing-rooms. Within these few days, however, the sweet season has put forth all its charms; the soul-reviving sun extends its cheerful and enlivening rays through the animal and vegetable world. Buds and blossoms now burst forth in gay luxuriance, and the spirits renovated by the charming scene, lights anew our hopes, awakens our slumbering energies, and gives to our mortal essence a second spring. It is now that the village maid throws aside her woollen cloak and vestment of humble

brown. It is now also that the fair fashionable discards the velvet mantle, and coat of Georgian cloth, for those of more seasonable elegance. Now is seen the unconfined pelissa of gay and pliant sarsnet, the rich and graceful scarf, yielding to each gentle breeze, and sporting gay with zephyrs. Various indeed are the articles which fashion exhibits at this charming season; we shall endeavour to select amidst the vast assemblage a collection of information worthy the attention of our fa readers.

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White gowns now chiefly belong to the morning costume; when introduced in full dress, they are ever decorated with coloured ornaments. Some are seen with embroidered borders in fruit, or flowers, some with deep trimmings of sarsuet, with chenille edging. Amidst these, the following was remarkable for its attractive elegance. It consists of a

crape, worn over white sarsnet; at the bottom it was bound and turned up deep with a rich jonquille sarsnet, and finished at its termination with a narrow checked trimming, or braid, composed of black and gold. The long sleeve which was very large, was gathered into an antique cuff at the wrist, formed of materials similar with the border of the dress. The stomacher was also of jonquille sarsnet, with black and gold edging the same as the trimming of the cuffs and robe, ornamented in horizontal stripes, and finished with rich buttous of wrought gold in the centre. A broad elastic girdle to correspond, confined under the stomacher. Slippers of black satin, the quarters trimmed with gold fringe or cord, terminating with topaz buttons on the instep.

Amidst the variety of out-door habits, the || white gossamer satin, sarsnet, or glazed campelisses still hold a distinguished place; they are now considered most genteel formed in a plain French coat, with high puckered collar, confined at the centre of the throat with a brooch, wrapt over ou one side, and otherwise flowing open in front. The three-quartered, or Barouche coat, is also much in fashionable esteem. This is made to sit close to the form, with a round bosom and full sleeve,|| trimmed with Chinese floss bordering. It is round robe, with demi-train, of white imperial confined down the front with gold barrel snaps,|| and round the waist with an elastic girdle and buckle; the seams are usually finished with a sort of binding the colour of the trimming. Spensers generally form a part of the spring costume; and this season they exhibit more than usual taste. The most attractive of these articles is exhibited in No. 1, of our Prints of Fashion, for the present Number of our work. We have also remarked them formed plain, of coloured sarsnet, with a pelerine of net or lace, with vandyke, or scalloped edging. Calypso mantle is a favourite carriage appendage, and is fancifully constructed of rich brocade sarsnet, or of net muslin, or leno, over coloured silk, and is finished round the throat with full plaitings of Paris net. The square shawl is now quite exploded; but large silk scarfs, with coloured borders, and rich brocade ends, amply and more gracefully supply their place. These with the walking dress, are disposed in the most plain and simple manner, so as to shelter the figure. In the evening dress they admit of various fanciful directions. Caps are invariably adopted in the morning and half dress. In full dress (except on females of advanced years) the hair variously ornamented, is universally admitted. In the walking costume we distinguish the Wardle bonnet, of fine wove straw, ornamented with a laurel border. The helmet, or Vigonian bonnet, of various materials, as given in the present portrait of our walking dress. Small French bonnets fancifully disposed, and worn with short face veils, and the village slouch of straw, appropriate for the retired pedestrain. Beavers are very little worn, we have seen a few dovecoloured riding hats, however, attract by their neat and unobtrusive effect. A greater variety of coloured articles for the several style of robes are introduced this season than we ever remember.

Shot and figured sarsnets, Spanish gause, imperial and vellum net, Turkey, or other fancy lenos, and muslin with large raised spots, each of various shades and colours, are offered for dress gowns; and are worn over

The hair in alternate ringlets and braids, ornamented with a pearl comb, and tiara of pearl jessamine. Necklace, earrings and bracelets, of the same, with topaz snaps. We may safely pronounce that this dress will never be surpassed either in appropriate elegance, or in its animated, tasteful, and becoming effect.

The Grecian frock, the Gallician vest, the Braganza and Andalusian robe, are all articles of much fashionable celebrity. The waist is now brought to a point in front of the figure. Morning gowns are made appropriately high in the neck, with Armenian, or laced fronts ; and in the walking, or carriage costume, is added a pelerine of the same material, consistently ornamented. Our fashionable fair seem unwilling to relinquish the half boot; but surely, if formed of ever so delicate a texture, they can never be admitted in the spring or summer costume. Bunches of fruit are now often seen to decorate the straw bonnet and lace cap; and some of our fashionable fair still further tempt us by blending these attractive ornaments with the hair in full dress; thus affording an ample specimen of the fruitfulness of female invention. Soon may we expect to see revived the entire fashions (if not the entire customs) of our grandmothers; who mounted on their high and stupendous

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