ever felt the

gray old olive grove on the shore of the Brook Kedron, to be the true Gethsemane ?

And because Solomon's song had been the proem and the poem of the day, it was difficult to see in the hazy headland, like a point in Nicholas Poussin's landscapes, the Carmel of grim history.

We spurred along the beach upon the full run. Golden Sleeve dropped chibouque and kurbash, scrambled off his horse and on, and gave gallopping chase. The Arabs swarmed after, wide-flying-as Homer would have sung-on the shore of the loudsounding sea. The Pacha and I dashed ahead of the turbanned crew, Coeur de Lion and Philip Augustus before Saladin, the Crusaders before the Saracens.

-Or Julian and Maddalo, rather, who ran along the Lido shore of the same sea,—

"For the winds drove

The living spray along the sunny air

Into our faces; the blue heavens were bare,
Stripped to their depths by the awakening North,
And from the waves sounds like delight broke forth
Harmonious with solitude, and sent

Into our hearts aerial merriment."

I leaned over the neck of my horse, straining ahead. But in an instant I rolled upon the sand. The stirrup in which I was thoughtlessly hanging

my whole weight, broke, and I fell toward the sea, that laughed at me softly with inextinguishable laughter.

"Kooltooluk!" cried the Pacha, reining up.

My good Arabian stopped instantly, turned to look at me, and the next moment we were all wideflying again, in the exhilarating air, Crusaders and Saracens, and the sun left us climbing Mount Carmel.

XIX.

SEA OF GALILEE.

A SHEET of dark-blue water among naked hills, is the Sea of Galilee. Only the dismal little town of Tiberias breaks the mournful monotony of the shore, from which the bold hills gradually recede higher and farther, to the snowy sublimity of

Hermon.

We came over the mountains from Nazareth, and as we descended to the lake and saw the shattered walls of Tiberias with a few palms, sad and unhandsome in the wind, it seemed to me the most desolate and forlorn of towns. In 1835 an earthquake shook down the village, and the whole landscape has the sullen aspect of a volcanic region. We looked in vain upon the dead calmness of the lake's surface for any trace of the beautiful Jordan, which flows through it. Not a ripple disturbed its dream. Indeed, the profound solitude and mountainous sternness of the region, reminded me of the bewitched desolation of the Dead Sea. Here again the woe

denounced against the cities of the shore has blasted the sea.

With what melancholy curiosity the eye followed Golden Sleeve's finger toward the site of Capernaum.

The tent was pitched on the high bank over the lake, with the door toward Mount Hermon, upon which the dying day played wondrous symphonies to the eye. There was no sail or boat upon the lake, and we strolled into the town.

It was at Tiberias that Eothen attended the congress of fleas, and the filth and squalor of this chapel of ease to the holy city of Saffet in the mountains, do not belie their fame. The town is thronged with Flemish Jews who await here the coming of the Messiah, who will reign at neighboring Saffet, before going to Jerusalem. The men, clad in every variety of sordid rags, with long elfish earlocks, a wan and puny aspect, and a kind of drivelling leer and cunning in the eye, were a singular combination of Boz's Fagin, and Carlyle's Apes of the Dead Sea. Never, surely was so bewitched and strange a population. They had the sallow chalkiness of complexion peculiar to German tailors, and wore the huge bell-crowned black hat which they wear everywhere else in the world. But the women, as if to complete the confusion, were even comely, and their

fair round faces, with caps, and the coarse substan tiality of the German female costume, perplexed the fancy upon the Sea of Galilee.

Artistic Leisurlie drew a Christian girl with her water jar, and tried to draw a Muslim boy. But he was afraid, and ran shouting away, laughingly pointing out one of his companions as a proper victim. But we started upon seeing him. Retzsch had been before us, and in his Mephistophiles has drawn only a horribly perfect likeness of that boy of Tiberias.

The morning was more merciful to the Sea of Galilee. The sun clomb out of the east over toppling clouds, while we skirted the lake, often walking our horses in the water.

The shore blazed with flowers. Had ours been the bridal train of Helen, skirting classic seas, the way could not have been more festally adorned. One rhododendron upon the shore of Galilee flames in my memory yet, a symbol of the tropics. The tangled luxuriance of flowers brushed against us, as if to secure in our hearts sweeter remembrances of Galilee than that of the apes of the Dead Sea, with long ear-locks who haunt the miserable Tiberias. These flowers are the relics of Capernaum, for so utterly has the city vanished from the earth. A few cattle grazed on the lake-side, or stood contemplative in the water. Two or three Bedoueen shepherds