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VIEWS OF SPAI N.'

Taken in the Year 1805.

No. V.

at the present juncture. If the Catholic cler gy in other countries should take the hint, and follow the example set them by those of Spain, we may yet see the machinator of evil meet with a reception befitting his intentions, in countries which his plans and his imagination devote to ruin and overthrow.

We are not so thoroughly satisfied with some of the writer's arguments in the following paper, as he seems to have been himself; but we have made a point of altering none of his sentiments; nor of varying his language beyond what was necessary to render it into correct and perspicuous English.,

SECULAR AND REGULAR CLERGY.

The clergy in general enjoy great preponderance in Spain: although it has diminished materially of late, still their influence on public opinion is considerable.

According to an account taken in 1787, the number of rectors and vicars amounted to 22,460; and the remainder of the secular clergy to 47,710. Supposing that half of these 47,710 individuals be in possession of livings, it will follow that the number of public functionaries is 45,315, and that of ecclesiastics not in functions 23,855: total 69, 120, composing the secular clergy of Spain.

The regular clergy amount to 100,000. In this the religious establishments for women are not included.

Report has stated that the Clergy of Spain have taken a decided and conspicuous part in the present revolutionary movements. It is extremely credible; because they could not have been ignorant of the ravages committed by the French on ecclesiastical property in Italy, and more lately in Portugal. What ever may be the sentiments of the philosophic statesman, we must suppose that the clergy, who are bound by their profession, cannot anticipate the destruction of what they have been accustomed to venerate, without pain, neither would they be backward in their personal endeavours to prevent it, or in those exhortations which are the arms of their profession, to excite the resistance of others, in behalf of the church establishment and church property of their nation. From the following communication we learn that the clergy are in the habit of attending the armies, so that they are inured to scenes of warfare, and to the dangers of the field. We learn, too, that they exhort the inhabitants of Madrid daily, in the open places of It is said that the government intend to forthe city and their harangues, no doubt, bid the admission of novices before the age of have their effect on the auditors. We cannot 25. It is to be hoped, for the sake of the resbut suppose, that under the present commo- pect due to religion, and even for that of tions of Spain, these public addresses, by touch- the state, and of society at large, that this ing on national topics, may tend to inflame prohibition will take place. A man, according to the civil code of different nations, is the public mind, while they direct the public only reckoned such from his majority: he opinion. We have seen several of the Spa- cannot dispose of property before his twentieth nish proclamations signed by bishops and ec- year; why then should he be allowed to clesiastics of high rank: we have seen others dispose of his existence in life, sometimes bedeclining the honour of the journey to Bay- fore he has reached his fifteenth year? onne: and others are said to have even headed lar, are in possession of the most considerable The Spanish clergy, both regular and secuarmies acting against the usurper of the Spa- landed property; they share with the grandees nish throne. Under these circumstances, we almost the whole of the country; but it is to feel a gratification in being able to lay before be remarked, that their property is much better our readers, in continuation of the papers uncultivated and taken care of, than that of der the title of Views of Spain, a character the nobility, who entrust the management of of the clergy drawn from actual observation, their estates to stewards: these receive high salaries, which they gayly spend without tak and extremely favourable to the body ating any sort of concern about the improvement large. That a body which maintains such a conduct should possess great influence is extremely credible, and that this influence will be urged to the utmost in opposition to Buonaparte may easily be believed. Nothing could be worse policy in that usurper than the disgraces he has accumulated on the Pope, VOL. V. [Lit. Pan. Oct. 1808.1

of their masters' lands.

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M. de Lovillanos considers great ecclesiastical property as prejudicial to the civil economy, as well as to the legislation of Spain. remedy this evil, he proposes to prohibit all donations of lands to the clergy, and to sell their property, or commute it into shares ia the public funds,

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presses himself thus: "Every thing reminds one of abundance, and peace of mind.”

Whoever has witnessed the services performed by the uks, either in military hos pitals or in battles where they ran amidst the fire to carry a word of consolation to the dying; whoever has seen them, when the alarm bell has rung, going processionally to the place on fire, each bearing a hatchet, a bucket, or other necessary utensil, not to give it to others, but to use it himself; or at Malaga, Alicant, and Carthagena, devoting themselves to wait on such as were infected with the plague, running about the streets with a bell to acquaint those who were abandoned by their father, mother, brother, or other relation, that charitable souls were comiing to their assistance, such will not reproach the religious orders with being useless.

BISHOPS.

Let us inquire how far this measure might conduce to the real interests of this country., The number of proprietors would be augmented, without a doubt, but the property would change its nature, the cultivation be Jess attended to, and the revenue of the state would be impoverished. The labourer, some will say, who toils for his master's profit, cares but little for the amelioration of the land -he cultivates, provided he be paid regularly; little does he mind losses by hail and inund tions; whereas, if he became proprietor, his interest would change; his industry would increase; he would enter into details which the Copulent proprietor cannot. This objection would be unansweble, if these domains were subdivided among proprietors in easy circumstances, who had funds sufficient to "support the purchase, and to meet the expen'ces of careful cultivation. But what would. be the consequence, if ecclesiastical possessions in Spain were put up to sale? Would the ca- In Spain episcopal dignities are the reward pitalists and merchants lay out their money of a long life of virtue, and it is not uncom In the purchase of land? Certainly not; formon to see the Cordelier, or Capuchin friat, the produce of land can never be compared quitting his cloister to occupy the see of Sewith that of commercial speculations. Whoville, Toledo, &e. The Spanish prelates ofthen would be the buyers? Labourers, jour-fer an example of the most rigid regularity. hermen, persons who subsist by their daily la- No assemblies, no entertainments, no woHour. To facilitate the purchase, it would be gen, admitted in their houses. Secluded equisite to fix low prices, or settle the pay-from the world, they are wholly taken up ments at distant term, or in annuities, which with spiritual cares. They all enjoy considermany would pay very ill, and some not at all; able possessions, attached to their sees; but for lie who desires to acquire landed property their wealth belongs to the poor. Instead of must, in a certain sense, be rich. A pro- gilt carriages, footmen loaded with lace, you prietor lays out on his estate what money he meet at the doors of their palaces none but possesses beyona Iris wants, by which means poor wretches, waiting for the hour when the he improves it, and reaps material benefit in distributions are made. Women of a better the end. But a first term must be fixed;' and condition, who may have been reduced to inthe purchaser, we have supposed, not having-digence; unfortunate persons, whom calamithat term, would fail in his engagements; he would be tamed out, the property would fall into the king's management, the revenue would get nothing by it, and agriculture would eventually be materially injured.

tous and unexpected events have visited, fill their anti-chambers, and never leave them without being relieved and consoled. For

prelates are at the head of every charitable institution in their provinces, and all lay out the greater part of their incomes in relieving

The enlightened Arthur Young observes, that dividing a large property is only substitut-the indigent." ing a crowd of penurious proprietors, a swarm of starving journeymen, who, if they were not toiling on their own account, would earn enough to exist upon while working for others. He observes, that those counties in 'Eugland, that are the most opulent, are those where there are the fewest small proprietors.

Most travellers have acknowledged how "useful and charitable monastic orders are in every part of the country. In comparing the state of cultivation on their possessions, with that of possessions belonging to the laity, they acknowledge the superiority of the former. Ease and confort reign everywhere," says one; the possessions of the monks are well cultivated, and give life throughout the adjacent country," Speaking of the Carthusian convent at Porta Celi, near Valentia, he ex

In those times of desolation when celestial wrath visited a kingdom formerly called "Most Chrisúan," the faithful priests, running away from an useless martyrdom, found support and assistance in the charity of these virtuous prelates. Who could have been insensible enough, to visit without tears, the palace of the archbishop of Orensé? That palace, transformed into religious barracks, where three hundred priests were hospitably entertained; the bishop confining himself to the smallest apartment, eating at the same table with these martyrs of the faith, supplying them with every article necessary for subsistence, and allowing monthly stipends to those whom his palace had not room to contain and, all this, without curtailing any of his accustomed bounties in his diocese !

And you, respectable archbishop of Toledo, When the members of the royal family Cardinal Lorenzana; you now enjoy the re-happen to be at Madrid, during Passion compense › promised to the just. This pious week,-on foot, dressed in black, and surprelate during the whole time of the persecu-rounded by a numerous train of grundees, tion, not only employed the uttermost of his and guards, they all attend the procession, princely income, but even incurred debts, in and increase the majesty of the ceremony by order to support the French ecelesiastics who their august presence. took refuge in his dioceses, I say dioceses, be cause the archbishop of Toledo is at the saine time bishop of Madrid.

This same archbishop-cardinal repaired, and re-established, at his own expence, the Alcazar of Toledo, the ancient habitation of the Gothic kings; and formed establishments in that palace; where the indigent receives succours from his infancy to his death. Two hundred children are brought up there with care; seven hundred poor are employed in silk manufactures; and old men meet with a hospitable retreat for their last days.

To particularise all the individuals who have distinguished themselves by their benevo ent generosity in times of calamity, would be to name every prelate in Spain.

Ought I not to mention the bishop of Corduba, who, over since the scarcity of 1804, the principal cause that produced the epidemical fevers that raged in the south of Spain, distributes among his indigent diocesans 12,000 ratios of bread a day?-These are his carriages, his servants, and his liveries!

PREACHERS AND PASSION WEEK. Nothing is more common at Madrid, than to see monks, or other religious persons, mounted on a stone, or a seat, and preaching the Gospel to the surrounding crowd.

MADRID.

After eight days' travelling I reached Madrid. I entered that capital by the gate of Alcala; but a bird's eye view of the city must be taken to discover the Custom-house, the Post-office, and the Plaça-mayor. This square is almost at the centre of the city, on the left, and at some distance from the postoffice.

The city of Madrid, the capital of Spain, is situated under 400 38 min. N. lat. long. 14° 23 min. From Don Ferdinand Gonzales, in the year 904 down to Garcia, Castille was governed by Counts. Garcia died without issue, and the sovereignty devolved on his sister Nuria, who married Sanchez

the Great, King of Navarre. That sovereign erected Castile into a kingdom. Henry, his successor, dying without children, left the crown to his nephew Ferdinand II. King of Leon, who united the two crowns, in the year 1217. In 1477, Ferdinand and Isabella added the kingdom of Arragon to them; and from that period, Spain became a single sovereignty, divided into separate provinces.

Madrid is governed, as to its civil concerns, by two corregidors, forty regidors, and as many alcades as there are districts. There is a military governor besides, and the captaingeneral of Castile resides in the city.

The functions of a corregidor are of Roman origin. The Emperor Augustus named a magistrate, who was especially charged with the care of the police, and civil government of cities; he gave him the name of Prætor. The kings who gave laws to Spain, followed the example of Augustus; and established Prætors in the principal cities of the kingdom; with this difference only, that the Prætor of the Romans is the Corregidor of the Spa

niards.

Passion week offers a most majestic and edifying sight to the observer. The numerous processions, the union of the various monastic orders, following the representations of the Passion, the different scenes of which, cómmemorated in paintings, are carried about by the several corporations of citizens; the general mourning (men and women are dressed in deep black, during Passion week); that absence of all kind of tumult in a large capital (for no one can ride in a carriage during three days, the shops are shut up and the play houses, likewise, during the space of fifteen The economical part of the government of days), the crowd that fills the churches, that the capital, is entrusted to fifty-eight Gremios. general combination of Christian and moral These are the commercial corporations, that subjects, reminding the faithful of the suffer-elect the chiefs who are charged with the ings their Divine Redeemner underwent for their sake, must surely tend to bring back 10 principles of virtue and piety those who had been misled for a time by the transports of the passions: and society cannot but prove a gainer by their return. Happy would the nations be, if all were animated with this samme religious zeal; and if preachers of destructive doctrines did not dry up the very sources of virtue? 415 41

execution of ordinances relative to their respective branches. Every city in Spain has its gremios, who follow the same principles and regulations as those of the capital.

The fifty-eight gremios of Madrid are di vided into five gremios majores, and fiftythree minores. In the year 1733 the five head gremios obtained certain privileges from the king; and were entrusted with the laying and levying of taxes on merchants, traders,

and artificers. To them alone recourse is had, | pany which undertook it with an exclusive for the augmentation and payment of taxes.

In 1763 the five gremios obtained leave to form themselves into a company. The king granted that new establishinent full privileges to carry on maritime and interior trade.

The first funds advanced by the members were to the amount of 15,000,000 reales, about £156,250: the holders of shares only, and not the corporations, were declared answer. able one for the other. Besides these 15,000,000 reales, employed in commercial speculations, the company was authorised to receive funds bearing interest.

It was decided, that two directors should be appointed, and changed every four years. A general revision of accounts takes place at every renewal of directors. A third part of the profits are refunded, for the augmentation of the capital; and the other two thirds divided between the five gremios, who allot the respective dividends to each holder of shares, according to the number and amount of his shares.

The directors have permission to establish factories abroad, in America, and wherever they may deem it eligible, for the interests of the company. They are also allowed to take shares in banks, insurance companies, &c. &c.

In order to facilitate the consumption of animal food in the capital, five markets have been established. The most considerable is that in the Plaça-mayor; the circuit of which is upwards of sixteen hundred feet, Alcades superintend the weight and quality of the provisions brought to market.

privilege for thirty years.

The canal begins at the bridge of Toledo, and receives the waters of the Manzanares, Xarama, and all the rivulets that are found within a circumference of twenty leagues; it is intended to reach the Tagus, and fertilize, by its numerous irrigations, that part of Cas tile which it will traverse.

The necessity of a junction between the river Manzanares and the Tagus, had been felt so far back as the reign of Jonn II. Philip IV. thought of it seriously; but his death remitted the plan he had proposed, to oblivion. Some Flemish speculators revived that project in 1673, but the execution of it was reserved for Charles III.

The company, which had undertaken this canal, resigned their privileges, and it has been carried on at the king's expense ever since. Although it is not completed, yet considerable advantages are already derived from it, by flour mills, &c. which have been erected on it, and by the facility it has afforded of removing, by means of vessels of six or seven hundred tons burthen, all the dirt and filth: of the capital, which fertilizes the fields adjacent to the canal.

Although the city of Madrid be situated almost in the centre of the Peninsula, yet it carries on a considerable maritime trade, by means of factories, established principally at Cadiz and Valentia. Foreigners at Madrid have monopolized almost the whole importation trade. It consists in hardware, jewellery, fans, stockings, camlets, baracans, flan nels, silk stuffs, fine cloths, sugar, salt-fish and spices.

Among the splendid monuments which the capital of Spain contains, I must not The trade with the interior consists, with forget to mention the magnificent bridge of the kingdom of Valentia, in articles of the Segovia, on the river Manzanares. Some silk manufactures of that city, of Alcoy wags have sarcastically asserted that this bridge Enquera, and Bocayrente; woollen cloths, wanted nothing but a river. If, during the of Alcoy and Segorva paper, and others, the summer season, the Manzanares is but a rivu- importation of which into the capital is cal let, yet swelling during the winter into a dan-culated at 30,000,000 reales; with the prin gerous torrent, it sufficiently shews the necessity of that bridge. It is a thousand paces in length, and twenty-two broad at its entrance; but it narrows towards the centre where it measures but twelve. It is con structed of free stone, and is lined with a parapet, adorned at regular distances with stone balls. This bridge was built under Philip II. on the plans of Don Juan de Herrera.

Having crossed the superb bridge of Segovia, we cannot help following those avenues that lead to a charming walk, called la Florida, where you inhale the cooling breeze of the Manzanares, and are sheltered by lofty trees from the heat of the sun. Those delightful walks lead on to the canal begun in the year 1770, after the plans of Don Pedro Martinengo. Charles 111 invested the com

cipality of Catalonia, in the produce of its manufactures, such as cloths, flannels, cot tons, paper, and silk stockings, very inferior to those of French manufacture. The shoemakers of Catalonia supply nearly the whole of the inhabitants of Madrid. The trunks. and boxes that are sold in that city come, likewise from Barcelona. Arragon supplies cloths manufactured at Albarracin, common woollen stuffs, from Eubielos, and Villa-real. Toledo and Talavera have established ribbon manufactories on the model of those in France; but they do not equal their perfection as yet. The province of La Mancha furnishes wine, oil, and fruit. Brandy and spirituous liquors are distilled in Spain; but on a recapitulation of the goods that are entered at the Custom House, the foreign trade with the capital is found to exceed that with the interior by far,

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-The population of Madrid, according to the latest accounts, amounts to about 140,000 persons.

PLAÇA MAYOR.

The Plaça Mayor is the largest of six places or squares in Madrid. Its circuit is one thousand five hundred and thirty-six feet. One hundred and thirty six houses, five stories high, adorned with balconies, and supported on pillars that form noble galleries, compose the four sides of this square.

The prospect it offers is extremely beautiful, the houses bring remarkably elegant, and lofty. It is not true, as some have asserted, that all bull-fights take place in this square; that is only the case on the occasion of royal festivals: the spot commonly destined to those exhibitions being out of the city, near the gate

called Alcala.

THE BUEN RETIRO.

A governor has the special care of the Buen Retiro, which is situated upon an eminence, at the extremity of the city. Never had-a royal mansion less the appearance of a palace.: It is a very irregular building, and exhibits nothing majestic in any one point of view. It contains, however, a long suite of apartments, which, at a small expences might be made habitable. The gardens into which they have a view are neglected. The want of wa ter, and the nature of the soil render them little susceptible of embellishment. There are several statues worthy of the attention of the curious. The gardens of the Buen-Retiro are at present a public walk, which has long been famous in Spanish comedy and romance: at first, indeed, these alone were what gave it celebrity: there was nothing remarkable in the place itself; its reputation rose from what passed in it.

THE LAST GRAND ANNIVERSARY OF THE
FESTIVAL OF DOORGAH TACKOOR," OCTO-.
BER, 1807.-BY A NATURALIST.

[Compare Panorama, Vol. III. pp. 545, 791.]

The public amusements of European society in Calcutta, if not throughout British India, are so limited in number and variety, that it is not at all surprising, that even Calcutta Nautch should engage the attendauce of those who have repeatedly experienced its insipidity; while, to those who are strangers, and have had no previous opportunity to witness any specimen of the religious pageantry of Bengal, curiosity alone will raise a desire, personally to behold one of the most celebrated and costly rites of paganism.

I went to visit the Buen Retiro. That palace, built under Philip IV, formed the habi- DESCRIPTION OF A CALCUTTA NAUTCH, AT tation of the Kings of Spain of the house of Austria. It is kept in repair at considerable expence by those of the reigning dynasty. The interior of the palace is nearly in the same state as it was left by the expelled prince. The gardens have been considerably increased and beautified: they are near a league in extent, and have been formed out of different plots of ground which the Count of Olivares engaged Philip IV to purchase. Those gardens offer delightful situations, and are open to the public. In one of the parts that have been recently added to the gardens, Charles III has caused a very extensive building to be erected, where a porcelain manufactory has been established. This very expensive establishment works for the king only, or on his account: vases of the most exquisite workmanship are made here. The hills of Guadarama supply the waters of a pond about three hundred paces square that you find in the gardens. The king, during his residence at Madrid, from the middle of Jime to the end of July, enjoys here the diversion of duck hunting.

Among the beauties of this garden, is admired a Narcissus made of bronze viewing himself in a bason which receives a fountain to which he gives his name. This fountain is an imitation from the antique: I have seen its model at Florence. The bason is of black marble, and on a square of white mare ble you read the following inscription:

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Philantiam fuge;
-Respice Arcus:
Ploses? Certò

Gudque peris.

Florem te estimas,

Narcisse?

Certius citiùsque

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From the operation of these causes, the Nautches of the Doorgah Poojah, are more fully attended by Europeans, than we should expect, were the amusement or entertainment they afford considered as their sole attractions. Another motive gives a number of visitors to this ceremonial. Many gentle men, filling the higher stations, and others, at the Presidency, attend an invitation to a Nautch, as a matter of compliment to the parties inviting, who are highly gratified by this acquiescence, which they consider as a much more weight than a complimentary mark of respect and condescension, and of visit on any other occasion.

To the causes already enumerated, as combining to enlarge the attendance of Europeans at the Calcutta Nautches, we may add another, to which, in common with assemblies in general, they are frequently indebted for a greater number of their visitants, than to any other ;-a motive long since recog nized in the words of the Roman Poet: Veniunt spectentur et ipse,"

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