of their mistresses; and even in that condition, not satisfied with what they have barbarously done to themselves, they have their operators at hand, to evince their love by the number of their gashes and wounds; imagining the more blood they lose, the more love they show, and the more they shall gain. These are generally devotees of quality; though the tenet is universal, that he that is most bloody is most devout.

After these street exercises, these ostentatious castigations, are over, these self-sacrificers repair to the great church, the bloodier the better; there they throw themselves, in a condition too vile for the eye of a female, before the image of the Virgin Mary; though I defy all their race of Fathers, and their infallible Holy Father into the bargain, to produce any authority to fit it for belief, that she ever delighted in such sanguinary holocausts.

During the whole time of Lent, you will see in every street some priest or friar, upon some stall or stool, preaching up repentance to the people; and with violent blow on his breast, crying aloud, Mia culpa, mia maxima culpa, till he extract reciprocal returns from the hands of his auditors on their own breasts.

When Good-Friday is come, they entertain it with the most profound show of reverence and religion, both in their streets and in their churches. In the last, particularly, they have contrived about twelve o'clock suddenly to darken them, so as to render them quite gloomy. This they do, to intimate the eclipse of the sun, which at that time happened. And to signify the rending of the vail of the temple, you are struck with a strange artificial noise at the very same instant.

But when Easter-day appears, you find it in all respects with them a day of rejoicing; for though abstinence from flesh with them, who at no time eat much, is not so great a mortification as with those of the same persuasion in other countries, who eat much more, yet there is a visible satisfaction darts out at their eyes, which demonstrates their inward pleasure in being set free from the confinement of mind to the dissatisfaction of the body. Every person you now meet greets you with a Resurrexit Jesus; a good imitation of the primitive Christians, were it the real effect of devotion. And all sorts of the best music (which here indeed is the

best in all Spain), proclaim an auspicious valediction to the departed season of superficial sorrow and stupid superstition. But enough of this: I proceed to weightier matters.

CHAPTER VII.

ALICANT BESIEGED BY GENERAL GORGE-REMARKABLE FEAT OF A SCOTCH DRAGOON-MESSENGER TO ALICANT-LETTER FROM THE KING OF SPAIN TO THE QUEEN OF ENGLANDTHE SIEGE OF CARTHAGENA-SIGNAL DEFEAT OF THE ENGLISH BEFORE VILLENA-COMIC APPEARANCE OF MAJOR BOYD ON HIS JOURNEY TO VENISSA-INTERESTING ACCOUNT OF HERMIT'S CELLS AT MONTSERAT.

WHILE We lay at Valencia, under the vigilance and care of the indefatigable earl, news was brought, that Alicant was besieged by General Gorge by land, while a squadron of menof-war battered it from the sea; from both which the besiegers played their parts so well, and so warmly plied them with their cannon, that an indifferent practicable breach was made in a little time.

Mahoni commanded in the place, being again received into favour; and cleared as he was of those political insinuations before intimated, he now seemed resolved to confirm his innocence by a resolute defence. However, perceiving that all preparations tended towards a storm, and knowing full well the weakness of the town, he withdrew his garrison into the castle, leaving the town to the defence of its own inhabitants.

Just as that was doing, the sailors, not much skilled in sieges, nor at all times capable of the coolest consideration, with a resolution natural to them, stormed the walls to the side of the sea; where, not meeting with much opposition (for the people of the town apprehended the least danger there), they soon got into the place; and, as soon as got in, began to plunder. This obliged the people, for the better security of themselves to open their gates, and seek a refuge under one enemy in opposition to the rage of another.

General Gorge, as soon as he entered the town, with a

good deal of seeming lenity, put a stop to the ravages of the sailors; and ordered proclamation to be made throughout the place, that all the inhabitants should immediately bring in their best effects into the great church for their better security. This was by the mistaken populace as readily complied with; and neither friend nor foe at all disputing the command, or questioning the integrity of the intention, the church was presently crowded with riches of all sorts and sizes. Yet, after some time remaining there, they were all taken out, and disposed of by those that had as little property in them as the sailors they were pretended to be preserved

from

The Earl of Peterborow, upon the very first news of the siege, had left Valencia, and taken shipping for Alicant, where he arrived soon after the surrender of the town, and that outcry of the goods of the townsmen. Upon his arrival, Mahoni, who was blocked up in the castle, and had expe-. rienced his indefatigable diligence, being in want of provisions, and without much hope of relief, desired to capitulate. The earl granted him honourable conditions, upon which he delivered up the castle, and Gorge was made governor.

Upon his lordship's taking ship at Valencia, I had an opportunity of marching with those dragoons which escorted him from Castile, who had received orders to march into Murcia. We quartered the first night at Alcira, a town that the river Segra almost surrounds, which renders it capable of being made a place of vast strength, though now of small importance.

The next night we lay at Xativa, a place famous for its steadiness to King Charles. General Basset, a Spaniard, being governor, it was besieged by the forces of King Philip; but, after a noble resistance, the enemy were beat off, and the siege raised; for which effort, it is supposed, that on the retirement of King Charles out of this country, it was deprived of its old name Xativa, and is now called San Felippo; though to this day, the people thereabout much disallow by their practice, that novel denomination.

We marched next morning by Monteza; which gives name to the famous title of knights of Monteza. It was, at the time that Colonel O'Guaza, an Irishman, was governor, besieged by the people of the country, in favour of King Charles; but very ineffectually, so it never changed its

COURAGE OF CAPTAIN MATTHEWS.

377

sovereign. That night we quartered at Fonte de las Figuras, within one league of Almanza, where that fatal and unfortunate battle, which I shall give an account of in its place, was fought the year after, under the Lord Galway.

On our fourth day's march we were obliged to pass Villena, where the enemy had a garrison. A party of Mahoni's dragoons made a part of that garrison, and they were commanded by Major O'Roirk, an Irish officer, who always carried the reputation of a good soldier, and a brave gentle->

man.

and

I had all along made it my observation, that Captain! Matthews, who commanded those dragoons that I marched with, was a person of much more courage than conduct; he used as little precaution here, though just marching under the eye of the enemy, as he had done at other times. As I was become intimately acquainted with him, I rode up to him, and told him the danger, which, in my opinion, attended our present march. I pointed out to him just before Villena, a jutting hill, under which we must unavoidably pass; at the turning whereof, I was apprehensive the enemy might lie, and either by ambuscade, or otherwise, surprise us; I therefore entreated we might either wait the coming of our rearguard, or at least march with a little more leisure and caution. But he, taking little notice of all I said, kept on his round march; seeing which, I pressed forward my mule, which was a very good one, and rid as fast as her legs could carry her, till I had got on the top of the hill. When I came there, I found both my expectation and my apprehensions answered: for I could very plainly discern three squadrons of the enemy ready drawn up, and waiting for us at the very winding of the hill.

Hereupon I hastened back to the captain with the like speed, and told him the discovery I had made; who nevertheless kept on his march, and it was with a good deal of difficulty that I at last prevailed on him to halt, till our rearguard of twenty men had got up to us. But those joining us, and a new troop of Spanish dragoons, who had marched towards us that morning, appearing in sight; our captain, as if he was afraid of their rivalling him in his glory, at the very turn of the hill, rode in a full gallop, with sword in hand, up to the enemy. They stood their ground till we were ad

vanced within two hundred yards of them, and then in confusion endeavoured to retire into the town.

They were obliged to pass over a small bridge, too small to admit of such a company in so much haste; their crowding upon which obstructed their retreat, and left all that could not get over to the mercy of our swords, which spared none. However, narrow as the bridge was, Captain Matthews was resolved to venture over after the enemy; on doing which, the enemy made a halt, till the people of the town, and the very priests, came out to their relief with fire-arms. On so large an appearance, Captain Matthews thought it not advisable to make any farther advances; so, driving a very great flock of sheep from under the walls, he continued his march towards Elda. In this action we lost Captain Topham and three dragoons.

I remember we were not marched very far from the place where this rencounter happened, when an Irish dragoon overtook the captain, with a civil message from Major O'Roirk, desiring that he would not entertain a mean opinion of him for the defence that was made; since, could he have got the Spaniards to have stood their ground, he should have given him good reason for a better. The captain returned a complimental answer, and so marched on. This Major O'Roirk, or O'Roork, was the next year killed at Alkay, being much lamented; for he was esteemed both for his courage and conduct, one of the best of the Irish officers in the Spanish service. I was likewise informed, that he was descended from one of the ancient Kings of Ireland: the mother of the honourable Colonel Paget, one of the grooms of the bedchamber to his present majesty, was nearly related to this gallant gentleman.

One remarkable thing I saw in that action, which affected and surprised me; a Scotch dragoon, of but a moderate size, with his large basket-hilted sword, struck off a Spaniard's head at one stroke, with the same ease, in appearance, as a man would do that of a poppy.

When we came to Elda (a town much in the interest of King Charles, and famous for its fine situation, and the largest grapes in Spain), the inhabitants received us in a manner as handsome as it was peculiar; all standing at their doors with lighted torches, which, considering the time