there placed with a cross fixed in his hands; soon after which, saying the proper masses for his soul, in the middle of their devotion the dead man lifts up his head, and with an audible voice cried out, Vocatus sum.' The pious brethren, as any one will easily imagine, were most prodigiously surprised at such an incident, and therefore they earnestly redoubled their prayers; when lifting up his head a second time, the dead man cried aloud, 'Judicatus sum.' Knowing his former piety, the pious fraternity could not then entertain the least doubt of his felicity, when, to their great consternation and confusion, he lifted up his head a third time, crying out in a terrible tone, Damnatus sum;' upon which they incontinently removed the corpse out of the chapel and threw it upon the dunghill. "Good Bruno, pondering upon these passages, could not fail of drawing this conclusion-that if a person, to all appearance so holy and devout, should miss of salvation, it behoved a wise man to contrive some way more certain to make his calling and election sure. To that purpose he instituted this strict and severe order, with an injunction, sacred as any part, that every professor should always wear hair-cloth next his skin, never eat any flesh, nor speak to one another, only as passing by to say Memento mori.'" This account I found to agree pretty well with what I had before heard, but, at the same time, I found the redouble of it made but just the same impression it had at first made upon my heart. However, having made it my observation, that a spirit the least contradictory best carries a man through Spain, I kept Father White company and in humour till we arrived at Victoria; where he added one thing by way of appendix, in relation to the Carthusians, that every person of the society is obliged every day to go into their place of burial, and take up as much earth as he can hold at a grasp with one hand in order to prepare his grave. Next day we set out for Victoria-it is a sweet, delicious, and pleasant town. It received that name in memory of a considerable victory there obtained over the Moors. Leaving this place, I parted with Father White, he going where his affairs led him, and I to make the best of my way to Bilboa. Entering into Biscay soon after I left Victoria, I was at a loss almost to imagine what country I was got into. By my long stay in Spain, I thought| myself a tolerable master of the tongue, yet here 1 found myself at the utmost loss to understand landlord, landlady, or any of the family. I was told by my muleteer that they pretend their language, as they call it, has continued uncorrupted from the very confusion of Babel; though if I might freely give my opinion in the matter, I should rather take it to be the very corruption of all that confusion. Another rhodomontado they have, for in this they are perfect Spaniards, that neither Romans, Carthaginians, Vandals, Goths, or Moors, ever totally subdued them; and yet any man that has ever seen their country might cut this knot without a hatchet, by saying truly, that neither Roman, Carthaginian, nor any victorious people, thought it worth while to make a conquest of a country so mountainous and barren. However, Bilboa must be allowed, though not very large, to be a pretty, clean, and neat town. Here, as in Amsterdam, they allow neither cart nor coach to enter, but everything of merchandise is drawn and carried upon sledges; and yet it is a place of no small account as to trade, and especially for iron and wooll Here I hoped to have met with an opportunity of embarking for England, but to my sorrow I found myself disappointed, || and under that disappointment obliged to make the best of my way to Bayonne. Setting out for which place the first town of note that I came to was Saint Sebastian, a very rarity in Spain. It has a very good wall about clean town, and neatly paved, which is no little it, and a pretty citadel. At this place I met with two English officers, who were under the same state with myself, one of them being a prisoner of war with me at Denia. They were going to Bayonne to embark for England as well as myself, so we agreed to set out together for Port Passage. The road from St Sebastian is all over a wellpaved stone causeway, almost at the end whereof there accosted us a great number of young lasses. They were all prettily dressed, their long hair flowing in a decent manner over their shoulders, and here and there decorated with ribbons of various colours, which wantonly played on their backs with the wind. The sight surprised my fellow-travellers no less than me, and the more, as they advanced directly up to us, and seized our hands. But a little time undeceived us, and we found what they came for, and that their contest, though not so robust as our oars on the Thames, was much of the same nature, each contending who should have us for their fare; for it is here a custom of time out of mind, that none but young women should have the management and profit of that ferry; and though the ferry is over an arm of the sea, very broad, and sometimes very rough, those fair ferriers manage themselves with that dexterity that the passage is very little dangerous, and in calm weather very pleaIn short, we made choice of those that best pleased us, who, in a grateful return, led us down to their boat under a sort of music, which they, walking along, made with their oars, and which we all thought far from being disagreeable. Thus were we transported over to Port Passage, not undeservedly accounted the best harbour in all the Bay of Biscay. sant. We stayed not long here after landing, resolving, if possible, to reach Fonterabia before night; but all the expedition we could use little availed, for before we could reach thither the gates were shut, and good nature and humanity were so locked up with them that all the rhetoric we were masters of could not prevail upon the governor to order their being opened, for which reason we were obliged to take up our quarters at the ferry house. When we got up the next morning, we found the waters so broad as well as rough, that we began to inquire after another passage, and were answered that at the Isle of Conference, but a short league upwards, the passage was much shorter, and exposed to less danger. Such good reasons soon determined us; so setting out, we got there in a very little time, and very soon after were landed in France. Here we found a house, of very good entertainment, a thing we had long wanted, and much lamented the want of. We were hardly well seated in the house before we were made sensible that it was the custom, which had made it the business of our host to entertain all his guests at first coming in with a prolix account of that remarkable interview between the two Kings of France and Spain. I speak safely now, as being got on French ground, for the Spaniard in his own country would have made me to know, that putting Spain after France had there been looked upon as a mere solecism in speech. However, having refreshed ourselves, to show our deference to our host's relation, we agreed to pay our respects to that famous little isle he mentioned, which, indeed, was the whole burden of the design of our crafty landlord's relation. When we came there we found it a little oval island, overrun with weeds, and surrounded with reeds and rushes. "Here," said our landlord (for he went with us), "upon this little spot were at that juncture seen the two greatest monarchs in the universe. A noble pavilion was erected in the very middle of it, and in the middle of that was placed a very large oval table, at which was the conference, from which the place received its title. There were two bridges raised, one on the Spanish side, the passage to which was a little upon a descent by reason of the hills adjacent, and the other upon the French side, which, as you see, was all upon a level. The music playing, and trumpets sounding, the two kings, upon a signal agreed upon, set forward at the same time; the Spanish monarch handing the infanta, his daughter, to the place of interview. As soon as they were entered the pavilion, on each side, all the artillery fired, and both armies after that made their several vollies. Then the King of Spain advancing on his side the table with the infanta, the King of France advanced at the same moment on the other; till, meeting, he received the infanta at the hands of her father as his queen; upon which, both the artillery and small arms fired as before. After this was a most splendid and sumptuous entertainment; which being over, both kings retired into their several do minions; the King of France conducting his new Queen to Saint Jean de Luz, where the marriage was consummated, and the King of Spain returning to Port Passage." After a relation so very inconsistent with the present state of the place, we took horse (for mule-mounting was now out of fashion) and rode to St Jean de Luz, where we found as great a difference in our eating and drinking as we had before done in our riding. Here they might be properly called houses of entertainment; though, generally speaking, till we came to this place, we met with very mean fare, and were poorly accommodated in the houses where we lodged. A person that travels this way would be esteemed a man of a narrow curiosity who should not desire to see the chamber where Louis le Grand took his first night's lodging with his queen. Accordingly, when it was put into my head, out of an ambition to evince myself a person of taste, I asked the question, and the favour was granted me with a great deal of French civility. Not that I found anything here, more than in the Isle of Conference, but what tradition only had rendered remarkable. Saint Jean de Luz is esteemed one of the greatest village towns in all France. It was in the great church of this place that Louis XIV, according to marriage articles, took before the high altar the oath of renunciation to the crown of Spain, by which all the issue of that marriage were debarred inheritance, if oaths had been obligatory with princes. The natives here are reckoned expert seamen, especially in whale fishing. Here is a fine bridge of wood, in the middle of which is a descent by steps into a pretty little island, where is a chapel, and a palace belonging to the Bishop of Bayonne. Here the Queen Dowager of Spain often walks to divert herself; and on this bridge, and in the walks on the island, I had the honour to see that princess more than once. This villa not being above four leagues from Bayonne, we got there by dinner-time, where, at an ordinary of twenty sous, we eat and drank in plenty, and with a gusto much better than in any part of Spain; where, for eating much worse, we paid very much more. Bayonne is a town strong by nature; yet the fortifications have been very much neglected since the building of the citadel on the other side the river; which not only commands the town, but the harbour too. It is a noble fabric, fair and strong, and raised on the side of a hill, wanting nothing that art could furnish to render it impregnable. The Marshal Bouflers had the care of it in its erection; and there is a fine walk near it, from which he used to survey the workmen, which still carries his name. There are two noble bridges here, though both of wood, one over that river which runs on one side the town; the other over that which divides it in the middle. The tide runs through both with vast rapidity, notwithstanding which, ships of burden come up, and, paying for it, are often fastened to the bridge while loading or unloading. While I was here there came in four or five English ships laden with corn; the first, as they told me, that had come in to unlade there since the beginning of the war. On that side of the river, where the new citadel is built, at a very little distance, lies Pont d'Esprit, a place mostly inhabited by Jews, who drive a great trade there, and are esteemed very rich, though, as in all other countries, mostly very roguish. Here the Queen Dowager of Spain has kept her court ever since the jealousy of the present king reclused her from Madrid. As aunt to his competitor Charles (now Emperor), he apprehended her intriguing, for which reason, giving her an option of retreat, that princess made choice of this city, much to the advantage of the place, and in all appearance much to her own satisfaction. She is a lady not of the lesser size, and lives here in suitable splendour, and not without the respect due to a person of her high quality. Every time she goes to take the air the cannon of the citadel salutes her as she passes over the bridge; and, to say truth, the country round is extremely pleasant, and abounds in plenty of all provisions, especially, in wild fowl. Bayonne hams are, to a proverb, celebrated all over France. not been long before our intended host, the mas ter of the ship, came in very much concerned, and blaming us for not hailing the vessel before we made an attempt to enter. "For," says he, We waited here near five months before the expected transports arrived from England, with-" the very night before my vessel was robbed; out any other amusements than such as are common to people under suspense. Short tours will not admit of great varieties; and much acquaintance could not be any way suitable to people that had long been in a strange country, and earnestly desired to return to our own. Yet one accident befel me here that was nearer costing me my life than all I had before encountered, either in battle or siege. Going to my lodgings one evening, I unfortunately met with an officer, who would needs have me along with him, aboard one of the English ships, to drink a bottle of English beer. He had been often invited, he said; "and I am afraid our countryman," continued he, "will hold himself slighted if I delay it longer." English beer was a great rarity, and the vessel lay not at any great distance from my lodgings, so without any further persuasion I consented. When we came upon the bridge, to which the ship we were to go aboard was fastened, we found, as was customary as well as necessary, a plank laid over from the ship, and a rope to hold by, for safe passage. The night was very dark, and I had cautiously enough taken care to provide a man, with a lanthorn to prevent casualties. The inan with the light went first, and, out of his abundant complaisance, my friend, the officer, would have me follow the light; but I was no sooner stept upon the plank after my guide, but rope and plank gave way, and guide and I tumbled both together into the water. The tide was then running in pretty strong; however, my feet in the fall touching ground, gave me an opportunity to recover myself a little; at which time I catched fast hold of a buoy, which was placed over an anchor on one of the ships there riding. I held fast till the tide, rising stronger and stronger, threw me off my feet, which gave an opportunity to the poor fellow, our lanthorn-bearer, to lay hold of one of my legs, by which he held as fast as I by the buoy. We had lain thus lovingly at hull together, struggling with the increasing tide, which, well for us, did not break my hold, (for if it had, the ships which lay breast-a-breast had certainly sucked us under,) when several on the bridge who saw us fall, brought others with ropes and lights to our assistance, and especially my brother officer, who had been accessary as well as spectator of our calamity, though at last a very small portion of our deliverance fell to his share. As soon as I could feel a rope, I quitted my hold of the buoy; but my poor drag at my heels would not on any account quit his hold of my leg; and as it was next to an impossibility, in that posture, to draw us up the bridge to save both, if either of us, we must still have perished had not the alarm brought off a boat or two to our succour, who took us in. I was carried as fast as possible to a neighbouring house hard by, where they took immediate care to make a good fire; and where I had and that plank and rope were a trap designed for the thieves if they came again, not imagining that men in an honest way would have come on board without asking questions." Like the wise men of this world I hereupon began to form resolutions against a thing which was never again likely to happen, and to draw inferences of instruction from an accident that had not so much as a moral for its foundation. One day after this, partly out of business and partly out of curiosity, I went to see the mint here; and having taken notice to one of the officers that there was a difference in the impress of their crown pieces, one having at the bottom the impress of a cow, and the other none: "Sir," replied that officer, "you are much in the right in your observation. Those that have the cow were not coined here, but at Paw, the chief city of Navarre, where they enjoy the privilege of a mint as well as we; and tradition tells us," says he, "that the reason of that addition to the impress was this: A certain King of Navarre | (when it was a kingdom distinct from that of France), looking out of a window of the palace, spied a cow, with her calf standing aside her, attacked by a lion, which had got loose out of his menagerie. The lion strove to get the young calf into his paw, the cow bravely defended her charge, and so well, that the lion at last, tired and weary, withdrew and left her mistress of the field of battle and her young one. Ever since which," concluded the officer, "by order of that king, the cow is placed at the bottom of the impress of all the money there coined." Whether or no my relator guessed at the moral, or whether it was a fact, I dare not determine; but to me it seemed apparent that it was no otherways intended than as an emblematical fable to cover and preserve the memory of the deliverance of Henry the Fourth, then the young King of Navarre, at that eternally ignominious slaughter, the massacre of Paris. Many historians, their own as well as others, agree that the house of Guise had levelled the malice of their design at that great prince. They knew him to be the lawful heir; but as they knew him bred what they called a Huguenot, barbarity and injustice was easily concealed under the cloak of religion, and the good of mother-church, under the veil of ambition, was held sufficient to postpone the laws of God and man. Some of those historians have delivered it as a matter of fact, that the conspirators, in searching after that young king, pressed into the very apartments of the queen his mother; who having, at the toll of the bell and cries of the murdered, taken the alarm on hearing them coming, placed herself in her chair, and covered the young king, her son, with her farthingale, till they were gone. which means she found an opportunity to convey him to a place of more safety, and so preserved him from those bloody murderers, and in them from the paw of the lion. This was only a private reflection of my own at the time, but l¦ By think carries so great a face of probability, that I can see no present reason to reject it; and to have sought after better information from the officer of the mint had been to sacrifice my discretion to my curiosity. Amsterdam, to set me ashore at Dover, stayed behind, waiting for that ship, as did that for a fair wind. In three or four days' time a fine and fair gale presented, of which the master taking due advantage, we sailed over the bar into the Bay of Biscay. This is with sailors, to a proverb, reckoned the roughest of seas, and yet on our entrance into it nothing appeared like it; it was smooth as glass; a lady's face might pass for young, and in its bloom, that discovered no more While I stayed at Bayonne, the Princess Ursini came hither, attended by some of the King of Spain's guards. She had been to drink the waters of some famous spa in the neighbourhood, the name of which has now slipt my memory. She was most splendidly entertained by the Queendowager of Spain; and the Mareschal de Mon-wrinkles; yet scarce had we sailed three leagues trevel no less signalized himself in his reception of that great lady, who was at that instant the greatest favourite in the Spanish court; though, as I have before related, she was some time after basely undermined by a creature of her own ad-pearing out of the water. The sailors, one and vancing. before a prodigious fish presented itself to our view. As near as we could guess, might be twenty yards in length; and it lay sporting itself on the surface of the sea, a great part apall, as soon as they saw it, declared it the certain Bayonne is esteemed the third emporium of forerunner of a storm. However, our ship kept trade in all France. It was once, and remained on its course before a fine gale, till we had nearly long so, in the possession of the English; of passed over half the bay, when, all on a sudden, which had history been silent, the cathedral there was such a hideous alteration as makes nachurch had afforded evident demonstration, being ture recoil on the very reflection. Those seas, in every respect of the English model, and quite that seemed before to smile upon us with the different to any of their own way of building in aspect of a friend, now in a moment changed their France. flattering countenance into that of an open enemy, Pampelona is the capital city of the Spanish and frowns, the certain indexes of wrath, preNavarre, supposed to have been built by Pom-sented us with apparent danger, of which little pey. It is situated in a pleasant valley, suron this side death could be the sequel. The rounded by lofty hills. This town, whether fa-angry waves cast themselves up into mountains, mous or infamous, was the cause of the first institution of the order of the Jesuits; for, at the siege of this place, Ignatius Loyola, being only a private soldier, received a shot in his thigh, which made him incapable of following that profession any longer; upon which he set his brains to work, being a subtle man, and invented the order of the Jesuits, which has been so troublesome to the world ever since. and scourged the ship on every side from poop to prow. Such shocks from the contending wind and surges! such falls from precipices of water to dismal caverns of the same uncertain element ! Although the latter seemed to receive us in order to screen us from the riot of the former, imagination could offer no other advantage than that of a winding-sheet presented and prepared for our approaching fate. But why mention I ima At Saint Stephen, near Lerida, an action hap-gination?-In me it was wholly dormant; and pened between the English and Spaniards, in which Major-general Cunningham, bravely fighting at the head of his men, lost his life, being extremely much lamented. He was a gentleman of a great estate, yet left it to serve his country; dulce est pro patria mori. About two leagues from Victoria there is a very pleasant hermitage placed upon a small rising ground; a murmuring rivulet running at the bottom, and a pretty neat chapel standing near it, in which I saw Saint Christopher in a gigantic shape, having a Christo on his shoulders. The hermit was there at his devotions; I asked him (though I knew it before) the reason why he was represented in so large a shape? The hermit answered with great civility, and told me he had his name from Christo Ferendo; for when our Saviour was young, he had an inclination to pass a river, so Saint Christopher took him on his shoulders in order to carry him over, and as the water grew deeper and deeper, so he grew higher and higher. At last we received news that the Gloucester man-of-war, with two transports, was arrived at Port Passage, in order for the transporting of all the remaining prisoners of war into England. Accordingly, they marched next day, and there embarked. But I having before agreed with a master of a vessel, which was loaded with wine for theirs about them in full stretch; for, seeing the yet those sons of stormy weather, the sailors, had wind and seas so very boisterous, they lashed the steer herself, since it was past their skill to steer rudder of the ship, resolved to let her drive and her. This was our way of sojourning most part of that tedious night; driven where the winds and waves thought fit to drive us, with all our sails quite lowered and flat upon the deck. If Ovid, in the little Archipelagian sea, could whine out his jam jam jacturus, &c. in this most dismal scene, and much more dangerous sea (the pitchlike darkness of the night adding to all our sad variety of woes), what words in verse or prose could serve to paint our passions or our expectations? Alas! our only expectation was in the return of morning; it came at last; yet even slowly as it came, when come, we thought it come too soon, a new scene of sudden death being all the advantage of its first appearance. Our ship was driving full speed towards the breakers on the Cabritton shore, between Bordeaux and Bayonne, which filled us with ideas more terrible than all before, since those were past and these seemingly as certain. Besides, to add to our distress, the tide was driving in, and consequently must drive us fast to visible destruction; a state so evident that one of our sailors, whom great experience had rendered more sensible of our present danger, was preparing to save one by lashing himself to the mainmast against the expected minute of desolation. He was about that melancholy work, in utter despair of any better fortune, when, as loud as ever he could bawl, he cried out, "A point, a point of wind!" To me, who had had too much of it, it appeared like the sound of the last trump; but to the more intelligent crew it had a different sound. With vigour and alacrity they started from their prayers, or their despair, and with all imaginable speed unlashed the rudder, and hoisted all their sails. Never sure in nature did one minute produce a greater scene of contraries. The more skilful sailors took courage at this happy presage of deliverance; and according to their expectation did it happen, that heavenly point of wind delivered us from the jaws of those breakers, ready open to devour us, and carrying us out to the much more welcome wide sea, furnished every one in the ship with thoughts as distant as we thought our danger. We endeavoured to make Port Passage, but our ship became unruly, and would not answer her helm; for which reason we were glad to go before the wind, and make for the harbour of St Jean de Luz. This we attained without any great difficulty; and to the satisfaction of all, sailors as well as passengers, we there cast anchor after the most terrible storm (as all the oldest sailors agreed), and as much danger as ever people escaped. Here I took notice that the sailors buoyed up their cables with hogsheads; inquiring into the reason of which, they told me that the rocks at the bottom of the harbour were by experience found to be so very sharp that they would otherwise cut their cables asunder. Our ship was obliged to be drawn up into the dock to be refitted, during which I lay in the town, where nothing of moment or worth reciting happened. I beg pardon for my error; the very movements of princes must always be considerable, and consequently worth recital. While the ship lay in the dock I was one evening walking upon the bridge, with the little island near it (which I have before spoken of), and had a little Spanish dog along with me, when at the further end I spied a lady and three or four gentlemen in company. I kept on my pace of leisure, and so did they; but when I came nearer I found they as much out-numbered me in the dog as they did in the human kind, and I soon experienced to my sorrow that their dogs, by their fierceness and ill-humour, were dogs of quality, having, without || warning or the least declaration of war, fallen upon my little dog, according to pristine custom, without any honourable regard to size, interest, or number. However, the good lady, who, by the privilege of her sex, must be allowed the most competent judge of inequalities, out of an excess of condescension and goodness, came running to the relief of oppressed poor Tony, and, in courtly language, rated her own oppressive dogs for their great incivility to strangers. The dogs, in the middle of their insulting wrath, obeyed the lady with a vast deal of profound submission, which I could not much wonder at when I understood that it was a queen-dowager of Spain who had chid them. Our ship being now repaired, and made fit to go out again to sea, we left the harbour of Saint Jean de Luz, and, with a much better passage, as the last tempest was still dancing in my imagination, in ten days' sail we reached Dover. Here I landed on the last day of March 1713, having not till then seen or touched English shore from the beginning of May 1705. The I took coach directly for London, where, when I arrived, I thought myself transported into a country more foreign than any I had either fought or pilgrimaged in. Not foreign, do I mean, in respect to others, so much as to itself. I left it, seemingly, under a perfect unanimity; the fatal distinctions of Whig and Tory were then esteemed merely nominal, and of no more ill consequence or danger than a bee robbed of its sting. national concern went on with vigour, and the prodigious success of the Queen's arms left every soul without the least pretence to a murmur. But now, on my return, I found them on their old establishment, perfect contraries, and as unlikely to be brought to meet as direct angles; some arraigning, some extolling of a peace; in which time has shown both were wrong, and consequently neither could be right in their notions of it, however an over-prejudiced way of thinking might draw them into one or the other. But Whig and Tory are, in my mind, the completest paradox in nature; and yet, like other paradoxes, old as I am, I live in hope to see, before I die, those seeming contraries perfectly reconciled and reduced into one happy certainty, the public good. Whilst I stayed at Madrid I made several visits to my old acquaintance, General Mahoni. I remember that he told me, when the Earl of Peterborough and he held a conference at Morvidro, his lordship used many arguments to in. duce him to leave the Spanish service. Mahoni made several excuses, especially that none of his religion were suffered to serve in the English army. My lord replied that he would undertake to get him excepted by an act of parliament. I have often heard him speak with great respect of his lordship; and was strangely surprised that, after so many glorious successes, he should be sent away. He was likewise pleased to inform me that, at the battle of Saragoza, it was his fortune to make some of our horse to give way, and he pursued them for a considerable time, but at his return he saw the Spanish army in great confusion; but it gave him the opportunity of attacking our battery of guns, which he performed with great slaughter, both of gunners and matrosses; he at the same time inquired who it was that commanded there in chief. I informed him it was Colonel Bourguard, one that understood the economy of the train exceedingly well. As for that, he knew nothing of; but that he would vouch he behaved himself with extraordinary courage, and defended the battery to the utmost extremity, receiving several wounds, and deserved the post in which he acted. A gentleman who was a prisoner at Gualaxara, informed me that he saw King Philip riding through that town, being only attended with one of his guards. Saragoza, or Cæsar Augusta, lies upon the |