like style of foftnefs and fublimity, and to which he would be himself my conductor in the morning, on the condition of my being his gueft that night. This was offered with fo frank an air, with fo much unquestioned difinterestedness, that I intreat of you and your party, if you ever take this tour, to make your beft bows and curtfeys to this hofpitable cottager. His villa is about the midway between Mahuntleth and Dolgelthy; but it is im-. poffible it fhould efcape your notice; for without thefe mementos, I am fure here would your foot be fixed, and here your heart would warm.

Nor is this hofpitality rare in this country. It anciently, you know, formed its characteristick. Modern manners have not altogether refined it I witneffed its existence, during my tour, away. in a great many inftances. In taking the exercifes of the field, for example, every farm, every cottage, is yours, as places of repofe and refreshment, and the bounty extends to your dumb companions as well as to yourself-milk, butter, cheese, and barakerk, oat-bread, a clean cloth, a platter of hungbeef, a jug of beer, and a can of cyder, are placed before you, as matters of courfe, without asking for, and your being a stranger is a fufficient recommendation; nay, you would be thought cruel to fuffer from fatigue, hunger, or bad weather, while fuch shelter and entertainment were within your reach. As this is amongst the facts which a refi

dentiary

dentiary traveller only could know, and as it is really a truth, that runs through the country, especially the northern parts, I feel myself the more bound to mention it. Nor is it confined to the low and middle ranks only. People of family are every where under a prescriptive neceffity of keeping up certain forms, but with refpect to Wales, a very flight acquaintance would secure a moft cordial reception in the houses of the gentry and nobility: and many of these live in the folid fafhions, and keep up the good old cuftoms of ancient days-ftill retaining their hawker, their harper, their domeftic bard, &c.

A venerable man* member for the very county which fupplies the fcenes I have been defcribing, may be quoted as an inftance. His ftate of health has, for fome time, "check'd the genial current "of his foul;" but his houfe has been long the temple of good humour, hofpitality, and cheerfulnefs, in a style that might put to the blufh the proud referves, and felfifh pomps of upftart great-. nefs, and mushroom pretenfions to ftate and diftinction.

Such, in very general expreffions, are the farmers, peasants, and gentry, of the country, which gives a title to the Heir Apparent of one of the most valuable crowns, and to one of the moft ac

* Mr. Vaughan member for Merionethfhire, who died fince this letter was written.

VOL. I.

D

complifned

complished Princes in the Chriftian world. It were undoubtedly to be wifhed, that, with equal truth, I could pay an equal tribute to the peafantry, farmers, and gentry, in England; but I fear the unbought, difinterested urbanity of these to ftrangers, whether of their own country or of any other, must be looked upon rather as exceptions than general rules. When I reflect upon the fubftantial charities and benevolence of the people of England, on all great occafions, I triumph in being myself, an Englishman; but I fhall never cease to regret, my friend, that in the fpontaneous courtefies, the little impromptus of civility, that grow out of the wants and wifhes of the moment, and are to be gratified by dispensing with all formal referves, tedious introductions, and fufpicious balancings, the Welsh, the Scotch, the Irifh, the French, and many other people are their fuperiors.

Whence can this take its rife? Is it pride, diftruft, an apprehenfion of being deluded? Is it an infular kind of refervation? A fhutting up of the heart till it is woo'd and won? Or is it a mixture of all these? Whatever be the caufe, the effect is to be deplored: for much pleasure is loft to him who has too much etiquette, fear, or dignity to ftoop to immediate occurrences; the opportunity of doing a kindness is loft in a moment, and if our doors are to be opened only to receive a friend, and a stranger muft bring credentials of his being

entitled

entitled to the en paffant benevolence, by being known to fome of our friends and neighbours, though unknown to ourselves, a thousand urbanities, which might have been fhewn muft be omitted. A temper betwixt the extremes of French officiousness, and English phlegm, would form a good middle character. From many obfervations, during my late intercourfe amongst all ranks in this country, I am difpofed to think that Welsh courtesy is the happy medium, so far as goes to the reception of, and good offices fhewn to ftrangers. The fire of the French at first fight is too hot to laft; the froft of the English takes too much time in thawing, and though their bounty is but the more folid and effectual, when the ice of their constitutional-perhaps only atmospherical -referve is diffolved, like certain fruits of the earth, after the fnow that long covered them is melted, the occafion is paft away, and the object that ftood in need of our temporary exertions, may have gone even beyond the reach of our beft fervices, while the fires of benevolence are kindling. Not but I know many happy exceptions; amongst which I fhould not fcruple, were I called upon, by way of challenge, to produce a native of the

gloomy ifland," as foreigners fometimes call it, who, to peculiar tenderness of the affections for particular and private friends, unites a large, and indeed univerfal philanthropy, the effect of which extends

D 2

extends courtesy, gentleness and generous actions to people of all nations, difpenfing kind words and good deeds, wherever they are implored, I fhould name yourfelf-and not without exultation, that I have the honour to be your friend.Adieu.

P.S. I fhall leave the northern, and return to the fouthern part of Wales to-morrow, with intent to take a little fea-bathing, before I entirely quit the country. I will give you the reft of my Gleanings from the court of Neptune.

LETTER VI.

TO THE SAME.

Barmouth, North Wales.

I HAVE, as the date will shew

you, altered my route to which I have been induced by a wish to pay my parting tribute to the place from which I now addrefs you. The road from Mahuntleth to Dolgelthy, I truft, my last has made you acquainted with: that from Dolgelthy to Barmouth, a fpace only of ten miles, can, like the other, be done full juftice to only by your own eyes, for its beauties are fo manifold and extraordinary, that they literally "beggar defcription." Suppofe yourfelf mounted on your horfe, or feated in your carriage on a clear genial day, as able from health,

as