indeed, in order to remain true to his plan of travels, left nothing unseen, and wrote every evening in his journal how many churches and galleries he had gone through, and always ended with a " God be praised."-A certain dull and tedious uniformity is invariably inseparable from a detailed description of buildings, picture galleries, museums, country seats, and gardens. This is frequently carried so far as to obliterate even the wish of being present ourselves, either at the periods or situations referred to.

After this preface, simple historical relations will not be expected in the following sheets, but attempts rather to connect more general considerations with the individual ones, to bring the past to the present, and, upon the brilliant theatre of events, to introduce recollections of those persons who have moved, acted, and played their part, perhaps, even centuries ago. This has introduced here and there some historical episodes, which certainly may possess but little interest for many of our readers; but still, perhaps, as they are taken from the fountains, will contain something new, and at any rate must become newly interesting, by the history they afford, of our own time. In representing the impressions made by single objects, it is, moreover, impossible to avoid speaking of one's self. But is not almost every description of travel a journal of our own biography?

The report spread in various places, that these Travels had been undertaken by high appointment, for particular purposes, and even at the public expense, with reference partly to the system of English universities and schools, I positively refute. I am ready to pay the merited compliment to the excellence which all Europe have acknowledged in the customary tribute to the English constitution. Much, however, as is certainly excellent in it, greatly I fear a great part of it is not applicable to the situation of my own country. But when the grand effects of public spirit, and of unrestrained energy of every kind, which the government affords to the citizen in that relation, are compared with other constitutions, where so frequently every remedy is expected from narrow proposals, little-minded formalities, and a mistrustful watchfulness, which only lame and oppress, it becomes difficult to forego the wish, that we approach not nearer the British public spirit.

It was my rule to give an impartial representation of every thing I found in Oxford, Cambridge, and Eton. Notwithstanding, however, the above assertion, I am just as far from giving my unconditional disapprobation of every thing to be found in those places, as to agree with the culogiums tipon

them, made by some of my own countrymen, who were certainly influenced rather by the deception which the appearance of perfect order and morality occasions, than by a profound acquaintance with the whole regulations of the interior.

The religious and church institutions were certainly a principal object of my observation; and I have endeavoured, as far as it was possible, to touch upon their various parties. Most of the works which have appeared in England and Germany upon them, have been hitherto little satisfactory; it is, however, difficult, in forming a comparison of so many opposite ways of thinking, not to incline, in our judgment, somewhat more to the one than the other, according as we ourselves, in the one or the other, think we discover more satisfaction to our own religious views. The point of union, however, is highly remarkable, which, in our days, thousands of the members of all these churches and spiritual corporations have discovered, and have extended, by their united endeavours, the empire of Christianity throughout the world.

From early youth no foreign country possessed so high an interest in my mind as England. Many circumstances conspired to awaken and to cherish this favourable predilection.

My first education was formed at a period when, notwithstanding the continually augmenting number of German classics, translations from British poets and prose writers, appertained to the most approved productions, and gained thereby a very considerable influence over the taste and the ton of many dispositions. In the collection of works belonging to the Belles Lettres, from which we were allowed every week at school to select one book, were to be found by the side of Bodmer, Haller, Klopstock, Kleist, &c., the works of Milton, Thomson, and Glover; the English Spectator, Harvey and Richardson; together with the first German translation of Shakspeare by Wieland; and, above all, Young, whose dignified melancholy imparted itself to all young people of both sexes, who were at all inclined to serious consideration. Foreign writers, in fact, were more frequently sought after than those of our own country. Successful, indeed, as many translations into the German have been, I panted still more after the original, and the more tasteless I found the French literature at that time, from not being acquainted with the best works in that language, the more zealously I cultivated the English.

I found every opportunity of speaking and writing the English language in the society of Mr. Samuel Thornton, at

that time a young Englishman who was studying with me at the school, and whom, exactly 50 years after our first school acquaintance, I again met with as the first Bank Director of London. Whenever I wrote small notes to him, he gave himself the trouble to correct them, and supplied me occasionally with the lecture of those periodical works, &c. which he was in the habit of receiving from England. Thus my inclination towards every thing which came across the channel found much food in the years I passed at the University from 1771 to 1776; added to which two young people from Calcutta, who were to return to their native country, were given over to my care, in order that I might freshen their memory with the remembrance of their native language, which they had entirely forgotten. Moreover, a young Gentleman of the name of Meyer, from London, who studied at the University, and was frequently my companion, contributed no little to my improvement in the English language; as in his frequent walks with me, it was his delight to speak of his native country, of the life he had led in England, and the friend his heart had left behind, in preference to study and sciences: and this conversation took place in English.

The interest I took in the constitution of Great Britain, and the History of the Nation, was increased by the reading of the Public Papers, and still more by that of the English Historians, Burnett and Hume. None of the Histories of modern States attracted my notice so much. To me it appeared, particularly in many of its periods, like a great drama which offers inexhaustible matter to the reflection, presents new views to the sentiments, and which, precisely on this account, can be continually read over and over again without tiring. By this repetition I became also so well acquainted with the particular circumstances that had occurred in that period, that I only wanted to gaze on the local picture, upon which once the principal characters, partly so noble and so heroic, and partly so dreadful and horrible, had figured, until they either terminated their career in the Tower, or found their tranquillity in Westminster Abbey.

Still, however, my longing after that Theatre of great events, and the Pantheon of immortal Britons, could only be satisfied in the years which are better devoted to repose than to new wanderings. Every other plan of Travels appeared to me more easily to be carried into execution, than a flight over the sea. No inducement offered from companions who were equally inclined; exaggerated representations of the indispensable expenditure of time and money; even the idea which had easily influenced me, that, in order not to be received coolly, it was

necessary to be a perfect master of the language---all this moderated my wishes, and weakened my expectations.

My hopes, all of a sudden, received new life in the dreadful years of war, in which the sight of the endless misery of the thousands who had gained the victory by their death and wounds, on the neighbouring plains of battle around Leipsic, scarce left us the 'feeling or sentiment arising from a deliverance. It is well known what England then contributed towards those' families in Germany who were become wretched. It became my agreeable commission to be the Agent and Letter Writer for this Committee. As our Orphan-house, at that time a large Hospital of more than 2500 sick and wounded, was deprived of almost all its resources, I renewed the connexion with my old school-fellow, of whom I have already spoken, and was happy enough, through his influence, and that of other excellent men, such as Dr. Steinkopf, Messieurs Schwabe and Ackermann, to meet with the most ardent support, which proved alike blessing to the town and the orphans.

The respect I had always borne towards a noble nation, which wished to appropriate to herself, by a great liberality, at once the fortune and the misery of a war, which set the continent in flames, and which she only viewed from afar upon her secure island, was now augmented by a warm sense of gratitude. This I had been enabled to express to one of those persons most actively employed for the relief of Germany, the celebrated artist, Mr. Ackermann, upon the occasion of his visiting his native country in the year 1818, when I shewed him the benevolent institutions which had been also assisted through his influence in the years of the greatest misery. Much conversation upon England followed; and the assurance I received from him of a friendly reception, and that, according to his avowal, even an imperfect acquaintance with the language would be sufficient, gave greater weight to his pressing invitation.

A year later the long wished for company offered itself quite unexpectedly in the person of a gentleman who had been long established in the Bookselling business in London, Mr. Bohte, who was returning to England from the Eastern Fair of Leipsic. What could have been more welcome to me, to whose companionship could my anxious friends have better entrusted me, than to one who had experienced so much in his Travels, both by sea and land, who was moreover in full possession of the language, and who united the most pleasing, the most urbane, and social disposition, with a thorough knowledge of the country and its manners?

Our journey took the direction of Halberstadt, Brunswick,

Hanover, Bremen, Oldenburg, and a part of East Friesland. As far as Hanover all was new to me; this heightened the interest. But it was of importance to us all to stop no where for any considerable time, and to attain the end of our journey as quickly as possible. "What," might I say with Goethe in his Travels to Italy, "what did I not leave unseen, both on right "and left, in order to carry into execution the one intention, "which had almost grown too old in my soul."

We left Halle on the 26th of May. Where is the man who does not feel some anxiety upon quitting his home, his friends, and his office, for a considerable period? Nothing so much recompenses us at such a moment, as a fine sky, good roads, and expeditious travelling. On the enjoyment of all these we had to congratulate ourselves. Nature every where surrounded us with the nuptial ornaments of Spring. No cloud on the horizon predicted any interruption. The most magnificent sunset followed one of the most serene days, and the evening refreshed us with its fragrance and coolness.

Brunswick, 28th May.

In the year 1770, I first greeted the old town of the Guelphs. To what men had not the youth to look up at that time? Ebert, the translator of Young, Zachariah, Gartner, Schmidt. The young Eschenburg was then in the bloom of youth, alike elegant in person and mind, possessing a high sounding pathos in his declamation, and surrounded by all the superb works of British art. To him Germany was indebted for her acquaintance with English Literature. His Translation of Shakspeare has only been rivalled by the later one of Schlegel.

Five and forty years after our first acquaintance, I now availed myself of the opportunity which the interval of preparation for our further progress afforded, to find him out, and to solicit his blessings for the country with which he was so well acquainted. It was surprising to me that, so well versed in the English language, and connected with so many Englishmen living in his house, he should never have seen the country, and even scarce knew where to give an address to an acquaintance. "But so it comes to pass," said he, "when we continually put "off what appears easy to carry into execution. And at last "the summons to our last journey hurries us on." And so it has happened. He died on the 29th February, 1820, and though he did not belong to the original genius, Germany acknowledges how much she is indebted to him for the liberal participation he afforded her in the rich treasures of his literary acquirements.