FORESTRY. DEGREES OF THINNING. WITH regard to Oak, although freely used on most English estates for gates, fencing, &c., on account of its being conveniently at hand, it cannot be looked upon as a tree which is planted chiefly for estate purposes; in fact, except as a unit to the ordinary mixed plantation, the planting of this tree is almost entirely neglected at the present time, chiefly on account of its relatively slow growth. But where a sound and permanent system of forestry is to be inaugurated or maintained, we contend that Oak should still form the backbone of woods on heavy soils, for good English Oak never lacks, nor probably will lack, a purchaser, which is more than can be said for the timber of many species. But Oak timber of the present and future is, and will be, put to very different uses to what was the case a century ago. The "wooden walls of Old England" now exist only in verse and tradition; and in view of the development of modern naval architecture, it seems hardly possible to believe that the British Govern. ment should once have thought it worth while to set aside a few thousand acres of land for the purpose of growing Oak-timber for the Navy. But while all ideas of this kind are now obsolete, it can hardly be said that the method of growing Oak for which they are responsible, are equally of the past. Less than a century ago, the most valuable part of an Oak-tree was its bark, and its crooked limbs, the latter forming knees for use in shipbuilding. The greater the number and size of the branches, the better the chance of getting these highly-prized crooks, and the greater the quantity of bark. Naturally, therefore, the old system of thinning Oak brought the density of the plantation very much on a par with that of a Kentish Cherryorchard, and a plantation specimen differed little from one in a park or hedgerow. Probably to prevent what was considered as a waste of ground, the plantation was filled up with Hazel-underwood, forming what is generally known as coppice, with standards, the latter having every inducement to form large, spreading heads, and short, thick boles. It need hardly be said that the demand for trees of this type no longer exists, although the method of producing them does. With bark at a price which just pays for taking it off and no more, and the oncevalued crooks worth their weight as firewood, the man, or rather the series of men, who aim at producing marketable timber, must adopt other methods. Straight, clean timber, of large size, and free from cup- and star shape, now fetch the top price, railway companies using such stuff for wagon-building, &c. Oak timber of this class wants a good soil, a warm climate, and a healthy and vigorous crown of foliage to produce it, and given these and fair treatment, we believe Oak plantations would prove as profitable in the long run as the majority. With the long-lived tree of this description, the survival of the fittest principle comes greatly into play, and the production of first-class timber depends less upon the degree of thinning than upon the constant weeding out of individuals which show little promise of becoming sustained growers. Nothing defeats this end more than the rule-of-thumb species of thinning, which keeps the so-many-feetapart idea steady in view. How often do we find a group of three or four Oaks or other trees in woodlands left pretty much to themselves, which all stand on a piece of ground 6 yards square, and yet contain more good timber than a dozen carefully thinned out traes elsewhere. The explanation of this probably lies in the fact that the soil at that particular spot is deeper and richer than the average, and is able to sustain a much greater growth of vegetation, and the moral is "take full advantage of it." The policy of the thinner of an Oak plantation should be that of carefully picking out these exceptionally favourable sites, and giving the trees thereon every opportunity of reaching maturity. While keeping them sufficiently thick to encourage altitude in the early stages, they should never be left unthinned long enough to get drawn up and lose a properly balanced crown of foliage, for such conditions favour shaky timber as much as any. thing next to quality of soil. Other parts of the wood which exhibit a slow or unhealthy growth had better frequently be thinned and cleared comparatively early, and the ground replanted with something more suitable. If mixed freely with Ash at the time of planting, the thinner has the option of taking out or leaving whichever species he finds doing best, while young Ash timber and poles are more valuable than Oak as thinnings. It is a great mistake, however, to attempt to raise really good Oak woods on the mixed plantation system, and planting single Oaks 30 or more feet apart, in the expectation that each one is going to make a satisfactory tree. In such cases the principle of natural selection never comes into play, and more often than not the plantation never becomes an Oak wood at all, but a mixture of inferior Larch and other Conifers, which produce almost worthless timber on typical Oak soils. Now-a-days, the latter are not planted to any great extent as a means of utilising the soil economically, except perhaps on high and exposed situations, and in such cases the desirability of introducing something which will grow quicker than Oak under the given conditions, is conceivable, and may necessitate a different system in which the Oak is less predominant. A. C. Forbes. (To be continued.) THE WEEK'S WORK. THE HARDY FRUIT GARDEN. By W. H. DIVERS, Gardener, Belvoir Castle, Grantham. Plum Trees on Walls.-Let the pruning and nailing of these trees be finished without delay. If the fruit-spurs are, as is often the case, of great length, the flowers are more exposed to injury than when the spurs are short, and as the Plum breaks from the old wood very freely in all but very aged trees, these should be shortened or removed. Every young fruit'pur should be shortened to back buds annually, nd well-placed young shoots laid in by the side of the older main branches, removing the latter as those become fit to fill their places. It is a mistake to be avoided to train in young shoots thickly, as the fruits require light and air when ripening, in order to obtain their proper colour and fine flavour, and the young shoots and branches should have not less space than 4 inches between them, and in the case of largefoliaged varieties like Cox's Emperor and Magnum Bonum, 5 inches should be the minimum. Plums like Imperatrice having small foliage may have less than 4 inches; still it is a good rule to adhere to, as from their lateness in ripening the fruits require every ray of sunshine. Bushes are, Plum bushes.-When Plum bushes are much restricted in size, they seldom fruit satisfactorily, owing to the strong annual growth that is made, the only remedy for which is periodical root-pruning. however, more suitable for small gardens than are large standard trees; and it is an easy matter to protect the bloom from frost and the fruit from the birds. The roots of the Plum are very prone to throw up brood-in garden parlance, "suckers"-more especially when the ground is under the spade, and to extirpate these the offending roots should be bared with a spade at this season, and the shoots severed without injuring the roots. These suckers if furnished with roots will, if planted in nursery lines in the reserve garden, form stocks for budding and grafting in a year or two. The Cluster or Crittenden Damson is a variety usually standing on its own roots, and its suckers are, therefore, true. Although not a Damson of the best quality, the Cluster is useful in a scarce year, as it is seldom fruitless, even when all other varieties fail. Last year the fruit was worth £20 per ton. Another small Plum, Mirabelle, is most valuable for all sorts of cooking and preserving purposes; but it is almost unknown in this country, although much grown in Germany, the growth is very similar to Cluster Damson, the fruit pale yellow, sweet, smaller than the common Damson, almost round, and of nice flavour when cooked or preserved. Some authorities confuse this variety with White Myrobalan, from which it is quite dis. tinct, and far more certain in cropping. Black Aphis on Cherries.-This, one of the worst pests the fruit grower has to contend with, usually appears plentifully when the fruits are swelling, and therefore when the use of insecticide is pro hibited. Badly-nourished trees are more liable to attack than those possessing vigour, and much arises from root-feeding. To do this the more readily, bare the upper roots, and apply 4 inches of decayed cow. stall-manure, and mix some good turfy loam, equal to one-half of the staple, mixed, and a few barrowloads of plaster or finely-broken chalk per tree, returning the whole after well mixing it together over the roots, and make it quite firm by treading it. Before the buds expand, syringe the trees with a solution of soft-soap, 24 oz.; common brown carbolic acid, one wineglassful; rain-water, 4 gals., well stirred together, and choosing a calm day; apply it over every part, and do not wash it off the trees. While it is being used, the mixture must be kept stirred or the acid will come to the top. It is important that this should be done while the buds are still firm and before growth advances, a little green showing does not signify, but if the buds are much swollen the acid will burn them. On referring to my note-book I find March 19 was the day we did our trees last year. but this season the date will be much earlier. If Lettuce or Parsley are growing at the foot of the Cherry-walls, the solution if it touch them will destroy them. PLANTS UNDER GLASS. By W. MESSENGER, Gardener, Woolverstone Park, Ipswich. Zonal Pelargoniums.-Plants which, since flowering, have been kept dry, may be pruned close back, and afterwards placed in a gentle heat, to enable them to break into growth. For increase of stock, cuttings may be inserted in sandy soil, and placed in a warmhouse near the glass; and young plants may have a shift into 5-inch pots, making the soil firm round the ball, in order to insure short, sturdy growth. Cliveias.-Last year's seedlings, which have hitherto been in a cool-house, may be shifted into larger pots, using a potting-soil of rich, friable loam, leaf-mould, rotten manure, and sand; pot firmly, afford water, and place the plants in a house having 55° of warmth. They will soon start into growth, and make strong plants during the summer. Old plants which have been partially rested may be started in a gentle heat to flower them, and when in active growth be afforded abundance of water, and occasionally manure-water. Dipladenias. The plants having been kept somewhat dry at the roots may now have the weakly growths removed, and be sponged over to clean them of insects; and those which need more root-space may be repotted in a compost consisting of peat, loam, sand, and small pieces of charcoal, and in well drained pots. Water will not be required before growth pushes freely; and plants that do not require shifting may be top-dressed. Let the growths be trained close to the glass in a light part of the stove, as the plants revel in light, heat, and moisture when growing. Lapagerias.-Let all weak shoots be removed with the knife, and the main growths untwined and regulated, for nothing is gained by tying in many growths in a bundle; on the contrary they become weak, flowering not at all, or unsatisfactorily. Afford every part of the plants a copious syringing with an insecticide, both when the growths are unloosened, and after tying them in. A close watch must be kept for slugs of all kinds, which are partial to the tender young shoots, protection being afforded by forming a ring of tobacco-powder around the base of the plant, and sprinkling some over the young shoots as growth proceeds, or by placing a piece of wadding the woolly side outwards round the stems close to the ground. If planted out, remove all the soil down to the roots, replacing it with a compost consisting of good lumpy pieces of loam and peat, plenty of sand, and some small pieces of sandstone. Be sure that the drainage is clear, and in good order. Any of the plants that are growing in pots or tubs that require more rooting space may be repotted, and placed on a cool base in a cool-house, watering them carefully till root-growth is active. Achimenes.-The tubers, or some of them, may be shaken out of the worn-out soil in which they grew last year, and be placed thinly and regularly in baskets filled with light soil, such as peat one half, leafsoil one half, and plenty of sand, or they may be placed rather more thickly together in shallow pans, just covering them and no more with soil and starting them in gentle heat, affording no water at the first, or until the tubers begin to grow, and shading them from strong sunshine. When 2 to 3 inches high, lift each tuber or several together, and plant these in pots or baskets at about 2 inches apart, Primulas.---Plants now in small pots and intended for flowering next autumn, must not become root bound before they get a slight shift, or be allowed to produce any flowers. Seeds sown at this date furnish plants that will flower late in the autumn. The seedpans should be filled the day before sowing with a mixture of equal parts of loam and leaf-mould with plenty of sand added, and be afforded water to moisten the soil. When the seed is sown, just sprinkle a pinch of silver sand over it, and cover with a sheet of glass; shade with a bit of brown paper and place in a mild hot-bed, no water being applied for some time. Plants in bloom will require manurewater occasionally, and a temperature of 50° to 55o, with plenty of air whenever possible. Cyclamens. If seed has not been sown for another season's supply of plants, no time should be lost in sowing some in pans filled with moderately light soil, the seeds being barely covered with the mould. Place in a brisk heat, and when the plants appear, place close to the glass, and admit air gradually. Fuchsias.-Any of the plants after a period of rest may be brought into gentle heat. If pyramidal. shaped plants are desired, cut back the side-growths close to the previous year's growth, and shorten the main leader. Plants struck in the autumn of 1897. as soon as growth becomes active, should be sifted into larger pots; and if more plants are required, some of the old plants should be left unpruned, and placed in a brisk heat in order to afford cuttings, and after taking off the required number of cuttings, these plants may be cut hard back. THE KITCHEN GARDEN. By J. W. MCHATTIE, Gardener, Strathfieldsaye, Hants. Winter Broccoli.-Examine the plants frequently, cutting every head which is large enough for consumption, and if a larger number of heads are turning in than can be kept in good condition if removed from the plants, lift the plants on a dry day, and heel them in, in a cold pit or shed. I have this season had very superior Broccoli from unprotected plantsan unusual occurrence in this part of the country. Autumn-sown Lettuce and Onions.-The plants in handlights should be freed from decayed leaves, and the surface of the soil loosened. The Lettuces planted on south borders should have vacancies in the rows made good from the seed-beds, and dead and decayed leaves removed, some dry soot being spread between the plants to deter slugs, and mix the soot with the soil by using the Dutch-hoe. The Onionbeds should be hand-weeded, and the plants made firm in the soil by trampling carefully on each side of the rows, as they are sure to have been loosened by frost; after doing this, lightly hoe the ground. Dwarf Early Peas.-Make a sowing of some early Dwarf Peas on a warm border or other sheltered part of the garden. Good varieties for this sowing are May Queen, 2 feet in height; Chelsea Gem, height 15 inches; Early Sunrise, 2 feet in height; and William Hurst, I foot in height, a space of 2 feet between the rows being afforded. Those who prefer taller growing varieties should sow Ringleader, height 4 feet; Improved William I., height 3 feet; Kentish Invicta, height 3 feet; and Sangster's No. 1 (syn. Daniel O'Rourke), height 4 feet. Broad Beans.-A good sowing of Broad Windsor, Green Windsor, and the Green Longpod Beans should now be made in the open, in soil which has been heavily manured, in rows 24 inches deep, and 3 feet apart. The Windsor varieties do not commence to form pods before the eighth leaf from the bottom of the stem. Those who like white-seeded Beans may sow Sutton's Mammoth Longpod, which is both early and large. The earliest podding Beans are Dwarf Fan or Cluster, and Beck's Dwarf Green Gem, for although dwarf, they are great bearers, and they force well in frames. Globe Artichokes.-If it be considered necessary, owing to the age of a plantation, to make a new one, seeds of the Green and Purple Globe varieties may be sown in a seed-box or pan, placing the same in a structure possessing a temperature of 50°, and when the seedlings are large enough to be handled readily, pricking them off into a frame placed on a shallow hotbed, and growing them therein till the end of April, when, after due hardening-off for several weeks, they should be planted out in autumn-trenched and heavily manured soil in part of the garden free from trees, 44 feet apart each way, and fully exposed to the Heads can be cut in the autumn following from seedling plants. Old Artichokes produce under ground around the root-stock or neck, a number of shoots, "suckers," and these are usually more numerous on each plant to allow of full develop sun. ment. The plants in March, when the protective covering is removed, should have these suckers exposed, and all but about three of the strongest removed, this being done without unnecessarily wounding the old stools. The best of these suckers should have the wounded parts of the heel trimmed off, and the leaves shortened a little. These may then be planted in the manner recommended for seedlings, or they may be planted in nursery lines, and planted permanently in June or July, thus rendering the results more certain. By planting suckers from proved good varieties, and at various periods from March to July, Artichokes of good quality can be sent into the kitchen for six months in succession without a break. FRUITS UNDER GLASS. By G. NORMAN, Gardener, Hatfield House, Herts. Early Peaches.-After the fruit is set, and before the young shoots become crowded, some amount of disbudding should be done by removing the back and front buds, and on parts of a tree where many of these buds appear remove a shoot here and there, taking care, however, not to remove the best placed lowermost shoots, which will be required in building up the tree, and in their turn to bear fruit next year. The disbudding should be done at intervals of five or six days, so as not to distress the trees, as the removal of many buds at one time would do. In disbudding never omit to leave a shoot in front of a fruit or fruits in order to induce a flow of sap, the resulting shoot being either stopped by nipping the point later or allowed to reached its full length as the case may require. Old weak wood on which the fruit is not set may be shortened back to a young shoot, and in some cases to the young shoot nearest its base. As the shoots grow in length, draw them carefully to the front side of the wires or wooden-trellis, and as soon as they are long enough, fasten them with bast, passing it round the old wood and the young shoots so that the shoot starts in a straight direction from the old wood. If after the fruit is set aphis infest the shoots and leaves, vaporise the house with XL All-compound, which, at this season, is the safest and most effective thing to use if the instructions are adhered to. The thinning of the fruits should be done at various stages of development, first when the largest are of the size of a Hazel-nut, and taking off all fruits situated between the branches, and the smallest where they are too close together to allow of full size being attained. A little thinning of the fruits should be performed each week till stoning takes place, leaving a few to be taken away after that period is finished. Do not remove the fruits indiscriminately, but leave those which are seen to be increasing in size faster than others, and leave much of it on the sunny-side of the tree. The temperature of the early Peach-house should range from 55° at night to 60° to 65° by day with artificial heat, and from that to 75° with sunbeat, and allow it to rise 10° higher on being closed early in the afternoon. At dusk the upper ventilators may be opened a small space, and remain open during the night if the weather be not unfavourable; and maintain a somewhat arid atmosphere, so as to keep the wood and foliage firm and healthy. A syringing of the trees daily, more or less, according to the state of the weather, is good for them, but for the present once on fine days will suffice, and later, twice on fine days. When syringing a tree, direct the water on to both sides of the leaves, and do not always syringe the trees from one side only. Should mildew show itself on fruit or foliage, mix half-a-pint of flowers of-sulphur into a thick paste with a small quantity of water, then blend it with 2 gallons of water, apply with a syringe, wetting the fruit and the foliage, and for a few days discontinue, syringing with. clean water. The borders will probably require attention in the matter of water, but first have them examined, affording copious waterings if the soil is found to be deficient in moisture, and as the season alvances frequent applications will be required. The water afforded should always be tepid. Farmyard-drainings may be added to the water alternately, and do not allow the soil to become very dry at any season. Strawberries. In order to assist fertilisation, the flowers should have a feather or hare's tail passed over them about noon, that is when the pollen is fairly dry and easily distributed. The reducing of the number of flowers, or of fruit, should be performed so that the strength of the plants be not wasted. For many years I have practised the thinning of the flowers when rather more than were sufficient for a crop were expanded with satisfactory results. The number of fruits that a plant will bring to perfection depends upon the variety, whether it is large-fruited or otherwise. Large-fruited varieties, growing in 5-inch pots will carry six fruits, and if in 6-inch pots ten. When thinning is not practised, the production of first-class fruit is not so great as when thinning is practised. The plants should be strong ones to carry the numbers given above, and if weak the crop should be one or two fewer fruits per plant. Plants with flowers set should have a liberal supply of water at the root as often as moisture is required, which will vary in accordance with the weather, water being always afforded before the soil has got dry. If manure-water be afforded, it should be much diluted, and used at every third watering. If an artificial kind be used, it should be readily soluble when sprinkled on the surface of the soil near to the edge of the pots. No reliance should be put on any one kind, but changes made from time to time. Red spider will be sure to give some trouble, and the best check to the ravages of this mite is to thoroughly syringe the plants on fine days in time to let the plants get dry before nightfall. If the plants stand on shelves near the glass, it is not difficult to wet the under sides of the leaves, where red spider chiefly harboura. Fumigate the plants, if aphis be present, in order to have them clean when the fruit colours. Never fumigate the house when fruit is colouring, as it imparts a disagreeable flavour to it. Let the ventilation be more or less according to the state of the weather, and close the house soon in the afternoon, but afford a slight amount again at dusk if there be no frost or strong wind. Let the temperatures range from 60° at night, 65° on dull, and 75°on sunny days. Do not practice syringing the plants when the fruit begins to colour, or apply manure of any kind; and afford less water and fuller ventilation. THE FLOWER GARDEN. By H. WALTERS, Gardener, Eastwell Park, Ashford. Violas.-The autumn-struck cuttings, or those plants which have been raised from seed sown in the months of August and September, will now be ready for planting in the beds or borders, thus having time to get well established before dry weather occurs. Violas are now become almost indispensable plants in affording material for midsummer bedding, especially as ground work or carpeting under taller plants, and the colours of many of the varieties lend themselves admirably to the prevailing methods of planting, besides affording a long season of flowering. Violets.-The removal of decayed leaves from these plants will require constant attention. The plants are blooming a great deal earlier than usual; and the fogs and humid atmosphere have caused considerable loss by the damping off of the leaves, especially with the more compact growing double-flowered varieties. Where hand-lights or frames are placed over these, on outside borders, great care should be exercised previous to the placing of them to see that all decayed matter be removed, and that a light surfacing of leafmould and sand be placed around them, which will aid in preventing damping off, and afford nutriment to the lateral roots of the plants; afford air liberally in mild weather. Annuals. It is quite time that a careful perusal was made of the seedsmen's catalogues, with a view to acquiring those varieties of flower seeds which will make the garden as bright as possible during the summer and autumn months. For outdoor sowing, the following are amongst the best :-Candytuft, in three distinct colours, white, crimson, and carmine; the average height of each is 1 foot, and the spiral varieties are most effective and useful as cut flowers. Linum grandiflorum, in three colours, white, blue, and scarlet, the last colour being the most effective; for continuity in flowering, and when an elaborate display of colour is required at a minimum cost, the Linum has no equal. For small beds, or for edgings of larger ones, the dwarf varieties of Nasturtium are exceedingly pretty. These can be obtained in various colours; they average in height from 6 inches to 1 foot, and bloom profusely if planted in poor soil. Of Nemophilas, insignis, the bright blue flowered one is the best, and varies in height from 6 to 9 inches. It makes a bright display of a colour peculiarly its own, but to maintain continued bloom two or three sowings are needed. Saponaria calabrica is another capital annual, the flowers in their shape suggest a cross, and are borne in great profusion, and continue for a considerable time. It rarely grows more than 6 inches in height, unless in very strong soils, and is therefore exceedingly useful as an edging plant. The varieties enumerated above, with the addition of the several varieties of Marigolds, will, if properly treated and the seedlings well thinned out, afford at a little cost great satisfaction to those who grow them. Dahlia Tubers and Cuttings.-When a large number of any special variety is required, and the stock of tubers is limited, the latter should be placed forthwith in an early vinery or other warm-house, with a not lower degree of warmth than 55°. With this temperature the cuttings are short-jointed, whereas in a higher degree of heat the cuttings come weak and long. The cuttings should be taken from the root-stock, stripped with, if possible, a bit of it, as this ensures quicker rooting. Dahlia cuttings root readily in sand or cocoa-nut fibre, if either be kept moist in a temperature of from 60° to 70°. Let them be potted-off as soon as rooted in any kind of light soil, with a fair amount of sharp-sand and leaf-mould mixed with it; and gradually harden off as the season advances. A sharp look-out must be kept for wood-lice, which are very destructive to the cuttings and young plants. THE ORCHID HOUSES. By W. H. WHITE, Orchid Grower, Burford, Dorking. Epiphronites Veitchiix.-Plants of this lovely hybrid are now showing their flower-spikes from the apex of the newly-made growths, and at this time if the compost be made too wet, the small leaves become spotted. This free-growing species should be kept in a cool, shady part of the intermediate-house. Do not remove the old stems when the flowers fade, because these frequently produce young plants, which should be constantly watched, so that as soon as they begin to root they may be removed with a portion of the stem attached, and put into small pots in sphagnum-moss only; in two or three months afterwards it will be necessary to repot them. The older plants should be repotted as soon as growth recommences into a rooting material of sphagnum-moss and a few pieces of fibry peat and broken crocks, taking care to well drain the pots. I have tried to grow this plant suspended near to the roof-glass, but it failed to thrive, though upon the stage, in company with Miltonia vexillaria, it grows luxuriantly. Epidendrum Wallisii requires a similar position, and should now be watered freely. E. EndresioWallisii and E. elegantulum x, producing their spikes, need careful watering; both hybrids need the same treatment as the Epiphronites, and should be shaded from strong sunshine. Miltonias. Examine Brazilian Miltonias, and afford more rooting-space to any needing same. The dwarf-growing M. spectabilis, M. Moreliana, M. Lubbersiana, and M. bicolor, being scandent growers, require considerable space wherein to extend themselves, and shallow pans are suitable. Such of these plants that have become bare in the centre may be broken up, and all decayed bulbs removed from them before the growing pieces are made up afresh. The pans used should be quite half filled with drainage; and as compost, use good fibrous peat (devoid of fine matter) and a liberal quantity of broken crocks. In repotting the specimens, some of the pieces with but few roots must be pegged firmly down to the compost. M. Clowesii, M. Regnelli, M. Russelliana, M. candida, and its variety grandiflora, are strong-growing species, best grown in pots, using similar compost; and when potting, keep the plants well elevated above the rim of the pot, with the base of the bulbs just on the surface of the compost. Insert a few thick pieces of crock here and there among the peat, so that when the plants are in full growth, water may be given freely without causing sourness. Plants of M. cuneata must not be disturbed at present, as their flowerspikes are in course of development. All of these Miltonias may be grown in the coolest part of the intermediate-house, choosing a rather shady place for them. The rare M. Schroderiana, a distinct and handsome species, is now in full growth, and should be kept moist at the roots. Masdevallia tovarensis having flowered, it is advisable to remove the spikes at once, because if they be allowed to produce secondary flowers, they tend to unduly weaken the plant. The plants are now making fresh leaves, and if any plant requires to be repotted, the work may now be done. Either pots or pans may be used, and it is very important that they be well drained; they should be filled up to within an inch of the rim with clean crocks, over which place a thin layer of moss, and keep the plant well up on a compost of fibrous peat and sphagnum-moss. Do not pack the material around the plant too closely, but compress it just sufficiently to make the plant firm. Water sparingly until the young leaves are well advanced. The coolest part of the intermediatehouse will suit the plant for the present. Border Plants, Shrubs, Roses, Fruit Trees, &c., at Stevens' Rooms. Continental Plants, Roses, Greenhouse Plants, Begonias. &c., at Protheroe & Morris' Rooms. Japanese Lilies, Palm Seeds, Roses, Örnamental Plants, &c., at Protheroe & Morris' Rooms. Roses, Fruit Trees, Shrubs, &c., at Stevens' Rooms. Azaleas, Carnations, Hardy Bor der Plants and Bulbs, &c, at Protheroe & Morris' Rooms. 22 Cases of Araucarias, 200 Cases of Japanese Lilies, Plants, Roses, &c., at Stevens' Rooms. Important sale of Odontoglossum crispum and other Orchids, by order of Mr. Thos. Rochford, at Protheroe & Morris' Rooms. AVERAGE TEMPERATURE for the ensuing week, deduced from LONDON.-February 9 (6 P.M.): Max., 48°; Min., 36°. Royal Horticul COMPLACENCY reigned at the general meeting of the Royal tural Society. Horticultural Society, on Tuesday last, on all points but one, which will be referred to in another place. The President, council and officers are well entitled to indulge in this feeling, for they have done their best and have achieved success. Who that remembers the South Kensington times could have supposed such a measure of success possible? Whilst thanking all those who have contributed to this result, we may be allowed to congratulate the President on the widely altered circumstances and on his devotion to the Society through ill report and good report. He should have been the chief among the Victoria Medallists, and it is a pity that some such proposal was not put to the meeting. We have already published the report and extracts from the balance sheet. Sir TREVOR LAWRENCE'S address to the Society naturally followed the lines of the report very closely, so that there is little room for comment. We may, in passing, allude to some of the points of interest. The expenditure on Chiswick amounting to £1800, or nearly one-third of the Society's income, shows no material diminution; but then, it must be remembered, that the establishment had during the evil days we mentioned been allowed to get into the uttermost state of disrepair. All that is put straight; old houses long condemned have at length disappeared, and new ones have Leen erected in their stead. The great vinery is in good repair, and the establishment generally is in excellent condition. The thought of deriving profit from Chiswick is out of the question; and it is a matter for regret that the none. Society is forced under existing circumstances to devote any portion of its staff or their energies to the sale of produce. Commercial marketgardening can be better done by others, while by practising it the Society wastes energy which might more advantageously be devoted to other purposes. Chiswick should be within its limitations a model garden, an experimental garden, and an educational establishment. We hear of prizes and scholarships being awarded, but for what purpose is scarcely apparent. No course of instruction is given; and as for initiation into the principles of the science and art, there is Now that a Professor of Botany is appointed, something might be done to secure to the Chiswick lads a fuller modicum of instruction than they now get. We suspect that the feeling expressed by one of the speakers at the meeting to the effect that Chiswick is a "white elephant" is shared by many besides himself. It must be admitted that sentimental attachment to the old gardens induces the whole of the older Fellows to hope for the preservation and improvement of the old garden, but the vast mass of the new Fellows who have joined the Society within the last few years have no such feeling. They know nothing of its glorious past, and are indifferent to its present state. Still, among them are surely some who would, if it were explained to them, appreciate the necessity for an experimental garden, and a school of horticulture. The allusion to new members induces us to mention that there was a net increase of 325 new Fellows elected last year; while the members elected for this present year, which is only a few weeks old, amount to 113, and this without the aid of band or balloons, fireworks, or frivolity. Ahall for horticulture" is, at the present moment, not a matter of practical politics. However desirable it may be, there is no chance of getting it just yet, even if the President's suggestion, that the guinea Fellows should double their subscriptions, were carried into effect. There must be central places in London more suitable for exhibitions than the present Drill Hall, which was only regarded as a makeshift, but which has proved a very serviceable one. The subject of the awards of Medals, which the Council thinks has been carried on too lavishly, brought Mr. ALEXANDER DEAN and his brother, Mr. RICHARD DEAN, to their feet, and they represented the seething feeling of irritation at the new edict propounded by the Council. No doubt this matter can readily be adjusted, because clearly no slur was intended to be cast on the committees, whilst, on the other hand, there is no doubt that there is outside the Society a very prevalent feeling that the number of awards made is much too large, and that the reputation of the Society and the value of the awards would be much enhanced by a re-arrangement and simplification of the whole system of medal-giving. In order that our readers may the better understand the position of affairs, it is necessary to give a slight account of what passed at the Floral and other Committees, held immediately prior to the general meeting: At the Floral Committee the paragraph in the Annual Report of the Council, circulated some days since, in which that body gave expression to the opinion that "there still app ars to be a tendency to multiply unduly the awards recommended" by the various Committees, was, on the occasion of the meeting of the Committees on Tuesday last, followed by a letter from the Secretary, the Rev. W. WILKS, to the Chairmen of the Floral, Orchid, and Fruit Commit ees, in which the opinion of the Council was reiterated, but in a fuller manner; the Council requiring that for the future the awards made to collections and groups should be determined by a Committee formed of three members of each Committee nominated by their respective Chairmen. Beyond the Chairman of the Floral Committee, who is a member of the Council, declaring that he thought the new arrangement a slur upon the committee-an opinion which was generally concurred in by a numerously-attended meeting, no discussion took place; but the chairman enforced his remarks by informing the committee that from the first meeting in January until the last in December, as many as 1248 entries were made of subjects which came before the committee. The awards made were as follows: 24 First-class Certificates, 209 Awards of Merit, 4 Cultural Commendations, and 4 Botanical Certifi cates. The number of Medals awarded during the same period was 266, and of this number 221 were awarded by the Floral Committee, and the remainder at the Temple Show by the judges. The Medals awarded by the Floral Committee to exhibits at the Drill Hail were 2 Gold, 18 Silver-gilt Floral, 18 Silver-gilt Banksian, 69 Silver Floral, 81 Silver Banksian, 7 Bronze Floral, and 26 Bronze Banksian. The Fruit and Orchid Committees have followed practice of making Awards to collections of fruit and vegetables, or to groups of Orchids in a body. In the case of the Floral Committee a different course has been adopted; the chairman would nominate three or four members in his opinion best acquainted with the particular subjects staged, to act with himself as a jury, and they recommended the award of certain Medals. In the course of his remarks on the letter received from the Council, the chairman expressed his conviction that no single Medal had been awarded that was not well deserved, and not till after the fullest consideration. discussion also arose; and it must be admitted that a In the case of the Fruit Committee, an animated considerable majority of the members of both the Floral and Fruit Committees held that the new regu lations put into force that day were, as the Chairman of the Floral Committee expressed it, a slight upon the Committee. The Orchid Committee took matters more philosophically, and whatever they felt they did not give much expression to it. The San José Scale. SOME of our readers may have already seen the following notice in the columus of the Times; but the matter is, or may be, of such importarce to our fruit-growers, that we do not hesitate to reproduce it, and at the same time to publish a note from one of our valued American correspondents, who is in a specially good position to know what amount of injury is being effected : "BERLIN, February 3.-Considerable excitement has been caused for the last few days in German trading circles by an order prohibiting the impor tation of fresh American fruit. On January 30 the Customs officials at Emmerich received telegraphic instructions from the Minister of Finance to stop the importation of fresh fruit from America, and on the following day a similar order was issued by the Hamburg Senate. The reason for this step was stated to be the discovery of a species of plant-bug, the Aspidiotus perniciosus, or San José plant-bug, in a case of American Apples. Protests against this measure secured from the Hamburg Senate permission, first of all, for the further export of consignments to England, and subsequently for consign. ments of American Apples that had already reached Germany to be delivered to the addres ees. To-day the subject occupied the attention of the Federal Council, which decided that the importation of fresh fruit is only forbidden when the same is discovered to contain the plant bug.' The prohibition does not extend to dried fruit. The importation of windfalle, packing material, and plants, is altogether forbidden." The official Reichsanzeiger of Feb. 4 publishes the following, which we take from the Daily News: "The report published by the American Agricultural Department on the San José shield-louse gave rise to an official enquiry here into the circumstances under which fruit is imported from America. On January 29 Professor FRANK found on some Pears which were obtained from a consignment of Californian fruit, entered in the Hamburg free port, numerous living hield-lice, in a condition to propagate, which the Professor found to be absolutely identical with the States, notably Oregon and British Columbia, have taken against it. The official organ then continues: "It is thus the unavoidable duty of the Government to give efficacious protection to the home fruit industry from the threatening danger of disease. Therefore is the importation of living plants and fresh plant-refuse entirely prohibited, and the importation of fruit and fruit-refuse prohibited, subject to the condition that at the port of entry of the said imports investigation of the consignment establishes the presence of the San José shield-louse." The the most severe and general fright which we have known for many years. The very mention of the San José scale is enough to put any horticultural assemblage into a fidget. horticultural papers are full of talk about this insect; almost every experiment station in the land has published some sort of an account of it; and all the horticultural meetings, now in full blast throughout the States, show the most intense interest in any information which is offered on this subject. The San José scale is, in truth, doing serious damage in many widely true San José shield-louse. He consequently expressel the opinion that the home fruit cultivation was exposed to great and imminent danger by the importation of American fruit. A conference of other important specialists, and the reports of the Imperial Office of Health, confirmed this view in (very point, and thus the necessity for prompt measures of protection was fully demonstrated." The Reichsanzeiger goes on to describe in connection with the publication of the Washington Agricultural Bureau the extraordinary perniciousness of the San José shield-louse, as well as the measures which various American The Reichsanzeiger shows by the example of the Phylloxera the danger of not adopting immediate measures of protection, while contrariwise the Colorado-beetle was kept out in time. The journal announces the regulations which are to be adopted internally to combat the shield-louse, and expresses the hope that the German fruit industry, on which a large community depends for its livelihood, may thus be protected from danger. Our own correspondent writes from Vermont: "The fruit-growers of America are suffering distributed localities; and its spread has been so thorough and so insidious that tree planters are entirely bewildered, and know not where to look for protection. This scale was introduced into eastern nurseries from California. When it was first brought to the attention of entomologists a few years ago it did not seem to be widely distributed, nor to have done very great injury, and we were assured that it could not live over a very wide range of territory, especially northwards. Since that time, however, the successive limits set for it have been successively passed, and the pernicious insect has |