PREFACE. THE Author, in submitting the following OBSERVATIONS to public notice, is alone influenced by his love for the Arts. Having found from experience that the architectural descriptions of the buildings on the Continent which have been usually given by Travellers were not sufficiently explanatory or detailed, either in regard to outer form, materials, or internal decoration, he induced while passing through France and Italy to take Notes and Sketches of the principal Structures which appeared to him most worthy of attention: and if he has conveyed a more certain outline of their beauties and defects than has been hitherto given, in a general way, his object is attained. It has been his particular wish to afford correct and satisfactory information to those whose pursuits may incline them, but who PREFACE. may never have an opportunity, to visit those countries. In regard to the style and composition of the Work, the Author fully relies on that indulgence which may be fairly claimed by one whose time has been chiefly devoted to the study of his Art. PROFESSIONAL OBSERVATIONS ON THE ARCHITECTURE OF FRANCE AND ITALY. I WILL endeavour, in as clear a manner as I am able, to give a faithful account of the architecture of France and Italy, with remarks on the painting and sculpture, written from sketches and memoranda made on the spot during a Tour through those countries in the latter end of the year 1802 and the beginning of 1803: together with various reflections respecting the arts in general; and some local observations on the different parts I visited, which are occasionally introduced to relieve the unavoidable dulness of technical description. I landed at Calais from the packet; and here the shore is so extremely flat, that, at the time of low water, passengers are under the necessity of being carried on men's shoulders even from the ship'sboat to land. The pier, which runs out as a protection to the harbour, is constructed with wooden piles, connected together in different directions, B and the spaces between them are filled in with large rough stones; the upper part, on which people walk, is covered with planking: but the whole appeared to be in a neglected state. The only public buildings worthy of observation in this town, are the church of Notre Dame and the town-hall, constructed chiefly with stone; but they have no beauty of architecture either within or without to excite particular attention from the artist. The church is a heavy Gothic structure, and, as usual in all Roman-catholic countries, forms a cross on the plan: and that which may be considered as a great advantage to the interior of the churches on the continent is, that they are all without pews; so that on entering them you have a complete and uninterrupted view of the whole at once; which is the case only in our metropolitan churches. The seats used by those who attend them, are moveable benches and chairs. At the east end of the cathedral is the chapel of the Virgin Mary, the plan of which makes an oval; the walls are enriched with double Corinthian pilasters supporting an entablature, and large circular-headed windows are placed between them. Above the entablature is an attic with oval windows over those below, and thence a dome springs with a lantern in the centre, which affords additional light to the interior. I thought the general character of this chapel pleasing; but as the inside is finished with common plastering, it had, nevertheless, a great meanness of appearance. Several indifferent pictures are seen against the walls: one represents a shipwreck, executed in the year |