Page images
PDF
EPUB

These

to be different in length. columns, which rest on a foundation of trap, about three hundred feet in height, are the largest of the kind in the Feroe islands; for where the rock has been freed from mould, these colossal pillars may be seen with their lower ends standing on another species of stone, and rising to the height of above a hundred feet, all equal in size, being about six feet in diameter. Many of these huge columus, which have fallen down, are now lying at the bottom of the hill; one in particular, sixty fect in length, has been thrown across a deep gulley, with its ends resting on each side, so as to form a bridge over it.

"The village of Eyde in this island is one of the neatest in Feroe; the houses for the most part are roomy and well built; some of them are constructed of neat square stones, and the lanes are paved with flags, which gives the village a handsomer and cleaner appearance. In the wall which surrounds the church there are several stones so large, that, unless they have been placed there by nature, one is astonished to think how they could be conveyed thither by the hands of men. The inhabitants are very industrious, and employ themselves much in fishing.

"At the north-north-west extremity of this island there are two high rocks, projecting from the land, which are called Risin and Kiedlingen, that is, the giant and his wife; they are each about two hundred and forty feet in height. Through the bottom of the latter the sea has worn a hole or aperture, which gives this natural statue two legs. Both these rocks, indeed, at a certain distance, and particularly on the sea side, have a great resemblance to colossal statues formed by the hands of men.

"Near Andford, which lies on. the east side of the island, on a small bay of the same name, is a remarkable stone or rock, called Rinkesteen. This stone, which is situated in the water a few feet from the land, is twenty-four feet in length, eighteen in breadth, and rises above the water, according as it is ebb or flood, from six to twelve feet. It may be called a perpetual motion; for even when the sea is perfectly calm, if touched only with the point of a fishing-rod, its motion may be distinctly perceived; and,, when the breakers are strong, it vibrates backwards and forwards several inches, emitting at the same time a creaking noise, which is considered as a sign of bad weather. Near it is an other stone of a very large size, which vibrates also, but its motion is not so perceptible. It is not improbable that these stones may have rested on a bed of clay, and the clay being washed away by the tide, they have remained suspended on the summits of two pointed rocks.

"8. STROMOE, the largest of the Feroe islands, lies to the west of Osteroe, extending south-east and north-west. It is twenty-seven miles in length, and about seven in breadth.

66

Kollefiord, the first village towards the south on the east side, is the best place for corn in the island. Near it a rivulet precipitates itself from a steep eminence, and then divides into several small branches, which pursue a winding course, amidst large stones that have tumbled down from the hills; while some of them again unite, forming in many places small islands, and in others cascades; so that this spot presents an excellent situation for a water-mill; and, on account of its romantic beauties, would form an agreeable residence to any person

who might be inclined to erect a house on it.

"In this neighbourhood also is a church, which is one of the smallest and worst in the island. The clergyman's income is also very small, partly on account of the frequent reparations which are necessary, and which are often of little utility, as the church is built in a very bad situation, for it stands as it were in a morass, and at the same time so near the sea, that when the weather is tempestuous, the path which leads to it, and which is paved with small stones, is entirely washed away by the violence of the waves, so that the inhabitants cannot go to hear divine service, but by a long and circuitous way; nay, the billows every year sweep away the stones that support the walls, and moisten the timber work in such a manner, that it soon decays. When I left Feroe, this church was ready to tumble down.

"The village of Qualviig lies in a dale on a small inlet of the same name, which extends north-west to the distance of five or six miles. Formerly large shoals of whales were driven on shore here; and on this account the inlet may have acquired its name. There is here a good new church, but it has one defect, which is, that the stone walls which surround it are too close to the timber work; it is also at too great a distance from the village, and stands in so wet a situation, that if one digs near it to the depth of only two feet, water immediately rushes in; and after a heavy fall of rain, it is almost surrounded with water, so

that people must wade through it, when they go to church.

"Near the village of Stromnæs, which lies to the north of Qualvig, the Sound between Stromoe and Osteroe, commonly called the Sound, though in general, from about half a mile to a mile and a quarter in breadth, becomes so narrow, that its width scarcely exceeds half a cablelength. In this narrow sound there are so many sunken rocks, that great skill and caution are necessary to pass through it even with a large boat; and though no current is observed, either at the south or the north end of this channel, the sea flows with such rapidity for about the length of a cable, in the narrowest part, that no little exertion is necessary in the management of the helm, to prevent the boat from being overset; but in going against the current, eight or ten men are necessary to row the boat; and sometimes they are even obliged to get out, and to drag the boat after them; or when it is loaded, to take out the load, and draw the boat over land, till they get past this rapid stream.

"A little farther north from Qual viig, near the sca-coast, is a small eminence, almost always covered with verdure, called Olvahoi, which is said to have been the abode of hobgoblins, or subterranean spirits, at a period when a belief in such beings was much more prevalent than at present.

"A mile north from Qualviig is that beautiful double water-fall, called Fosaa.

*

"Tyorneviig, the most northern village in Stromoe, is surrounded on

Qual, in the Feroese language, signifies a whale.

The way hither by land, and especially towards the north, is exceedingly danger ous, as it passes along the edge of a high rock that overhangs the sea; sometimes it is so slippery, that it is difficult to prevent the feet from gliding, and to fall would be attended with certain destruction.

all

all sides by high steep hills, except towards the sea, where there is a small open bay. When the wind blows in-shore, the waves here are exceedingly boisterous, and on this account landing is dangerous. To secure boats from the violence of the billows, it is necessary to draw them up a high perpendicular bank, which requires great labour and trouble.

"It is very remarkable, that every bull, whether bred here, or brought hither from any other place, becomes exceedingly ferocious and dangerous. The cause of this singularity, perhaps, may be explained by the situation of the place; for being inclosed by two high hills, which stand opposite to each other, and which produce a very loud echo, when a bull or a cow bellows, these animals may consider the reverberated sound as a challenge, or defiance, from some of their own species, and thence become irritated and furious.

"To the north of Tyorneviig is the most northerly extremity of Stromoe, which projects into the sea. A few feet above the surface of the water it is perforated by a hole, which, as far as I could judge without measurement, may be above two hundred feet in length; and which proceeds in a direction from southeast no north-west. Being in a boat at the south-east aperture of this hole, about ten o'clock one summer's evening, 1 saw through it the sun sink into the ocean, which afforded me a very curious and singular spectacle.

"Close to the extreme point, a little from the land, stands a high rock, called Stakken; the southern side of which resembles the opposite rock, whence it appears to have been torn by some convulsion; but on the northern side it seems to be

an assemblage of immense trunks of trees joined together, with their semicircular sides turned outwards,' and their branches interwoven in a singular and fantastic manner.

"About a mile to the west of this rock is a promontory looking towards the north, called Mylingen, which consists of perpendiculat rocks, said by the people who reside in the neighbourhood to be two thousand four hundred feet in height; and if this be really the case, Mylingen is the highest rock in the Feroe islands.

"The village of Saxen lies on the north-west side of Stromoe, on a small bay of the same name The neighbourhood affords good pasture for sheep, and the rocks abound with sea-fowl. This village belongs to the parish of Tyorneviig, the road to which is very long and difficult The direct distance between these two places is little more than three miles; but the height of the hills, which it is necessary to pass over, and the crookedness of the road, which winds round the summits of these hills, render the distance double; nay, the road in some places is so narrow (and the case is the same in many other parts of the Feroe Islands), that two people can scarcely walk alongside each other. It may be, therefore, readily cenceived bow tiresome it must be to carry a corpse along this road to the place of interment. Very often the body must be made fast to a board, and conveyed in that mauner upon men's shoulders. At Saxen formerly there was an excellent harbour, inclosed by high hills; the entrance of it is narrow, being not wider than from seventy to a hundred feet, with a hill on each side; but the entrance, as well as the harbour itself, is now so choked up with sand, that at low water one can cross it with

dry

dry feet, and only those acquainted with the ground can enter it, or come out from it, even with a boat. On one side of it, however, there is a narrow part said to be fifteen fathoms in depth.

"Two miles south of Saxen lies the village of Westmanhavn, on the west side of the island, where there is a good winter harbour of the same

name.

"There is good pasture here, and the sheep are said to be the largest and best in the island; but, during severe winters, many of them are lost in the snow. Sea-fowl are found here also in great abundance: the rocks principally frequented by them are situated towards the north, and exbibit in summer, at which time they swarm with them, a very singular appearance The following short description will serve to convey a faint idea of it. Before the rock which forms the sea-coast stands a long rock, resembling a wall, which rises to the height of twelve hundred feet, so that it is almost equal in height to the coast itself. The bottom of this rocky wall, which throws out many projections, is almost entirely covered with fowl which, as they are seldom scored by the presence of men, and still seldomer hear the report of a gun, are exceedingly tame. All the shelves and cavities of this rock are also filled with them. It has an opening in it like a lofty gateway, through which you can proceed in a boat towards the coast, and when within it, you then perceive that this wall s'ands at a distance from the coast, so that a long channel is left between them; and this channel is so wide, as to admit a large boat to turn in it. As the long rock consists of several strata, and as the thinnest of these in general is hardened clay, which is softer than the

other strata, these layers of clay are in many places washed out and destroyed by the force of the waves, and leave cavities which serve the fow. as places of resort, where they build their nests and rear their young. On the upper edge of the harder strat, the fowls, with their white breasts projecting, arrange themselves in rows one above the other, as regns larly as if they were porcelain figures disposed on shelves; and if the, have not been before frightened by firing at them, you may shoot several of them before they are aware of their danger, and without the rest being in the least disturbed. Tuose even which were placed close to the fowls that have been killed remain quiet in their places, and those which con cealed themselves farther back in the cavity readily come forwards to oc cupy the places of those that have been shot; so that the row is again soon completed. To describe this spectacle properly is impossible; no pn can do justice to it: to form a proper conception of it, one must have actually seen it.

"The village of Skalling lies at the bottom of Skællingsfield, which is the highest hill in the Ferne islands. Between this village and the taim of Leinum, but somewhat to the south of the former, there are several tissures, which beginning at the seacoast, proceed to a considerable height in the hills. Two of them, which I have often examined, as well as several mote, are lined on each side with perpendicular walls, composed of small basaltic columns, lying in a horizontal position.

"On the south side of Skællingsfield, the basaltes assumes the columnar appearance; but at a considerable elevation in the hill: at a short distance these columns disappear, but they soon show themselves again; and the farther south one

goes,

But

goes, the horizontal stratum of the basaltes is the more perceptible, for the extent of about two miles. about three miles south of Skælling, the appearance of these basaltic pillars is more striking, as they stand here at a great height in the hill, close to each other, in several tiers, exhibiting themselves in greater or less projections; and where the pillars are of unlike size, sometimes in flat rows, sometimes in semicircular rows with the cavity turned inwards, and sometimes in semicircular rows with the cavity turned outwards. A little farther on, or to the north of Dalsnypen, is a small inlet under a steep rock, and in this rock are seen several strata almost perpendicular, of different kinds of rock stone; but in the middle of the inlet there is 2 columnar rock entirely detached from the land. Still nearer Dalsnypen is a rock called Steyren, which 'consists of a grey hard kind of stone. The columnar rock has in it several fissures, in which basaltes is seen lying in various directions.

"A branch of basaltic pillars, which in some places stand upright, proceeds from Dalsnypen towards the south; and where they pass over a gulley, their upward ends incline a little downwards, after which they again become perpendicular, till they approach the hili Nygvan. On this hill the basaltic columns proceed up wards in an oblique position to the very summit, which they cover like a cap. Nygvan itself is about fifteen hundred feet in height, and consists of many strata, perfectly horizontal, of various kinds of rock.*

"At Kirkeboe there is a very neat church built of stone; it is the only one of the kind in these islands, and contains several wooden images, the remains of popish superstition,

which are now almost mouldered into dust.

"This was formerly the residence of the bishops of Feroe; and some ruins of a stone edifice still point out the place where his habitation was situated. But the most remarkable monument of antiquity is the shell of an edifice still standing, which was destined for a church. It consists of four walls, twentyeight feet in height; the side walls are seventy-two feet in length, and the end walls twenty-two. The thickness of the walls is thirty-five inches. On the east side is a building joined to the side walls, which is called the Cloister; but whether it was destined for that purpose, I will not pretend to say. It is about twenty feet long in the inside, and twelve and a halt broad. Four stones are built into the side walls of the church, on one of which is carved out a face; on the others there are faces also, but they seem never to have been finished. On the outside of the south wall there is a stone, on which is cut out a representation of Christ on the cross between the two thieves. The walls are built of large cut stones, cemented with lime; and the arches of the windows are constructed of thin stones, or slate. The lime has probably been made in the island of calcined muscle shells. This church, or rather these walls, are said to have been built by a bishop Hilarius, in the beginning of the twelfth century, some say in the year 1111; but as the bishop died the same year, the work remained unfinished. But, however this may be, it is certain that these walls have stood several centuries without any roof, exposed to the influence of the atmosphere and weather, and yet have sustained no injury, except

* See Forn's Brevvexling i Naturh. Selsk, Skrivter, Vol. IV. No. I. p. 31.

what

« PreviousContinue »