than before, to scatter the wool to the right hand, so as to form a thin regular layer; which he effects by duly proportioning the force of his strokes, and the position of the bow. When about one-third part is thus bowed, it is formed by the hands into an oval figure, ending in acute angles at the extremities. This portion of the material, thus formed, is called a batt.

The batt is hardened by a slight pressure with the hands for a short time, so as to connect it together sufficiently to bear careful handling. Another batt is then formed of the same dimensions; and, with the remaining third part, two smaller batts are formed, which are separately inited to the primary ones by a little pressure. This gives each of them a more uniform consistence than would be obtained by forming single batts only. It was formerly common to form six batts for each hat, but few are now willing to devote sufficient labor for the purpose. It is necessary to remark, that the batts are bowed thicker in that part which is designed to form the band of the intended hat; and, to give them a finish, the edges are torn round even by the right hand, while the pressure of the left prevents their being

torn in too far.

It now remains to connect the parts together in some convenient form, and to proceed in the operation of felting For this purpose, a wet cloth is folded so as to form a triangle, and laid on one of the batts. The extremities of the batts, with a small portion of the upper part, is then folded over the cloth, and the edges meeting over each other form a conical cap. This cap is laid on the second batt with the joining downwards, which being also folded up in the same manner, their places of junction will be diametrically opposite each other. This is laid on a second wet cloth, which is closely folded over the whole, so as to preserve the triangular figure; it is then ready for basoning. The bason is a circular piece of iron, exactly the same as those commonly used in Wales for baking over the fire, called backstones. This is laid over a hole in a plank, underneath which is a small grating fitted to the plank for this purpose. The prepared cap is then laid on the warm iron, and the process of felting carried on by folding, pressing, and sprinkling it continually with water. The corners being folded over a little, the base is first turned up towards the tip; and in this state it is worked a short time by pressing with the hands, moving them backwards and forwards, and shifting them about in various directions. Each side is then folded over towards the other alternately, the tip part towards the base; and, in general, it may be folded in any or every direction, repeating the pressure and working of the wool, and sprinkling it successively after every fold. By this pressure, and working the wool in various directions, the points of contact are multiplied; and the agitation given to each hair causing a progressive motion towards the root, and a coalition with each other, it soon acquires some degree of firmness and contracts in its dimensions.

On taking off the cloth, and opening the hood or cap, it will be found that the edges, or original folds, will not have that even and uniform

appearance with the rest of the surface, but small ridges will be formed by a small part of the sides felting together at the outward edges, which wil be considerable if care has not been taken in the first place to fold the batt closely over the inlayer. It is found necessary, therefore, to alter the 'position of the original edges, by turning round the cap, to extend them a little with the finger so as to produce a uniform surface, and with the hood in this position to continue the basoning as before. It is afterwards turned inside outwards, and the same operation continued. The workman afterwards opens the hood, holds it up to the light and looks through it from the inside to discover any parts that may be unusually thin; and on any of these parts, which are deficient, a little wool is added from that which was torn off the edges of the batt; and by working that particular part on the bason it is made to unite. When this is done, the process of basoning is completed, which generally takes from about twenty minutes to half an hour.

The hood now consists of a soft spongy kind of stuff, and its texture is loose and imperfect. To produce a more intimate cohesion of the hairs with each other, and obtain the requisite degree of consistence, it must undergo a kind of fulling, and a more effectual mechanical operation. For this purpose, the hats are first boiled in an iron boiler, in a mixture of about one part urine to six parts soft water, from six to eight hours. To prevent their touching the boiler, they are enclosed in a cloth; a basket, or, more generally, a lining of straw is placed round the sides, and at the bottom of the boiler. The felting is completed by working or planking at a water bath.

For the convenience of any particular number of workmen, an apparatus, called a battery, is generally made use of for this part of the process, consisting of a proportionate number of wooden planks, joined together in the form of the frustum of a pyramid, supported by stone or brick-work, and meeting at the bottom in a kettle, under which is a fire-place. The number of planks is most commonly from five to seven; and, according to the number made use of, it is called a five, six, or seven-room battery, &c. Each plank is from two to three feet broad at the upper edge, and about two feet deep. The kettle is generally of cast-iron or lead, and kept full of soft water, as nearly boiling as the nature of the operation will admit. To facilitate the felting, it is found necessary to add some softening material to the bath: for this purpose, some spermaceti, a marrow-bone, or shreds of washleather, have been thrown in; but oatmeal is at present almost universally used; about a tablespoonful is thrown into the kettle, and occasionally repeated as fresh water is added, or as it may be found necessary. The more greasy substances will answer for the purpose of planking, but it prevents the hats from taking a good dye; leather-shreds answer very well, but are not always so easy of access as oatmeal.

The operation commences by dipping the article in the bath, and gently rolling it in various directions, observing a degree of regularity, as

in basoning or its receiving more work in some parts than others will soon give it an irregular and shapeless appearance. It is necessary to be careful at first to turn the hood inside outwards, and to shift the position of its sides frequently to prevent their felting together, of which, in the subsequent stages of the process, there will be no danger. By working a short time in this way, the article will be found to have acquired a considerably firmer texture, and to have contracted very rapidly in its dimensions. The workman then applies leathern gloves, or flat pieces of stout leather, to the palms of his hands, to secure them in some degree from the heat of the water, and continues to dip it much oftener, and to roll it much harder than before, as it requires more labor, in this degree of felting, to obtain the firmness and consistence. In the first gentle rolling, an impulse, nearly equal, was given to the hairs in every direction, and hence it so readily contracted in its dimensions at the same time that it acquired a degree of firmness in substance. In rolling it harder the pressure is more particularly on the flat surface of the felt, and this acquires a more compact texture, without an equal contraction in the size. It is how ever necessary to prevent any contraction in size when it is sufficiently shrunk, and yet worked to any degree of consistency. For this purpose a small roller of wood, called a walking-pin, is made use of: over this the edges of the felt are turned, and the whole is rolled in various directions with the walking-pin enclosed by the surrounding felt; at the same time continuing to dip it often in the bath. This completes the working at plank; and on the labor thus given its service in wearing will principally depend.

The intended hat, after the preceding operation, still possesses the conical figure first given it, consisting of a soft flexible felt, capable, with a moderate degree of force, of being extended in every direction. The next thing to be done is to give it the required form. For this purpose the edge of the hood is turned up about one and a half or two inches: the point is then indented with the fingers, and the hood turned over, so as to produce a second inner fold about the same depth. From three to five folds are thus formed, and the whole has the appearance of a flat piece, consisting of a number of concentric circles, or wave-like undulations. This is laid upon the plank, and the workman, keeping it wet with clean warm water, extends the central point with the fingers of his right hand at the same time pressing it down with his left, and turning it round on the plank, till a flat portion is formed equal to the intended crown of the hat. The flat part is then placed in a block, and the remainder pulled down with the hands round its sides and a string tied tight round; it is forced down to the bottom of the block with a wooden or copper stamper, which forms the band. The brim will now have a curling inclination towards the crown, but is soon flattened by wetting and extending the edges. The water is afterwards pressed out of the hat with the blunt edge of the stamper, and the nap is raised by carding it in any direction with a small wired instrument called a raising card. The hat is then taken off the

block and placed in a stove to dry, when it is ready for the subsequent operations of dyeing, stiffening, and finishing. These instructions for blocking refer particularly to the common round hat now generally worn; but from the nature of the felt it will be seen that any form may easily be given it by the skill of the workman, with a corresponding block.

The above account comprises the general principles of hat-making, and is the foundation of every variety in the art. Common wool hats, or plain cordies, are of one uniform contexture throughout; but ingenuity has contrived a method of making the most of the materials employed, by placing the best side outwards. This is done by laying on the body of the hat, when partly felted, a finer and more valuable material, in the same direction it has when on the back of the animal. For the purpose of covering wool hats, the articles made use of are cod-wool and camel's hair: the former of which, after washing and carding, is boiled about an hour and a half in one part urine to about twelve or fourteen parts of water. The hats covered in this manner are bowed, basoned, and boiled in the usual manner, the common materials being used only in less quantity, proportioned to the addition intended to be made. A thin layer of the prepared codwool, with or without the addition of hair, is then bowed for each side of the triangular hood, so as just to meet at the edges; and another piece to go all round on the inside to the depth of the intended brim. The pieces are laid on the principal stuff or body of the hat, and worked on by basoning in the manner already described: the hairs assuming a motion towards the root, uniformly fix themselves in that direction, leaving the extremities outward which constitute the required nap. After this addition of the nap, the planking takes place as before.

For obtaining a variety of cordies, of different value, they are partially as well as wholly covered with different proportions of napping, and on bodies of wool more or less valuable. Next to the plain hats succeed the tips: these have only a nap sufficient to cover the crown and reach a short way down the sides. To save the trouble of basoning the nap on this kind of hats, it is only laid on with the hands, the hood turned so that the nap may be inside, and a layer of some proper flexible substance, commonly long horsehair, placed between the sides to prevent its uniting: in this manner it is taken immediately to the plank. The second class is tips and naps; these, as well as a cod-wool tip, have a nap of the same on the underside of the brim. And, lastly, succeed the covers. A good cover takes about two ounces of cod-wool, and a hair cover about half an ounce of hair in addition to the cod-wool; these are commonly bowed together; and the former is scarcely ever used for a nap without the addition of the latter.

Stuff hats appear to have been originally made throughout of beaver; the instructions given in the old accounts of hat-making is, to mix three parts of old coat with two parts of castor; but hats made in this way would be much higher in price than any now in general use. The beaver at present is scarcely ever used except in the

outward nap, and the body of the hat is composed of various inferior stuffs in any proportion; commonly with the addition of a little Spanish or vicuna wool, and sometimes a small quantity of silk is added. A patent was granted Mr. James Burn, of Alnwick, Northumberland, for making superfine hats, which, contrary to general modern practice, appear to have been of one uniform consistence. The composition consists of three ounces and a half of moles' fur, two ounces and a half of beaver, and a quarter of an ounce of Aleppo wool; and, in order to subdue the obstinate nature of the mole fur,' says Mr. Burn, so that it may incorporate with other furs usually made into hats, I use a little aqua regia; but, as that process destroys the elastic quality of the fur, I correct it by a little sweet or Florence oil, which sheathes the pungent points of the aqua regia.'

Stuffs possess, in general, a greater tendency to felting than wool, and in consequence some small difference is observed in the manufacture. As the fibres are more easily separable, a slighter bow, with a finer bow-string, is used than that made use of in wool. When the stuffs are bowed in the usual way, the batts are formed and gently pressed down with a piece of osier work, called a gathering basket, consisting of open straight bars only interwoven sufficiently to connect it together, and preserve it in form; it is from eighteen to twenty inches square. This is constantly kept on the hurdle, for the purpose of shifting the stuff as well as for forming the batts. Sometimes one or two of these baskets are placed under the stuff to separate any impurities that may pass through. To obtain this end more effectually, in the metropolis and several places in the north of England, a fine movable wire frame is placed on the hurdle on which the stuff is broken over, which is again removed, and the impurities swept off the hurdle for forming the batts.

These have their first degree of compactness given them by laying on a hardening skin of smooth leather, or sailcloth; and gently pressing with the hands, which are at the same time slightly moved backwards and forwards, to cause the entangling of the fibres. The cap is formed in the same manner as wool hats, only the inlayer for stuff is a piece of wetted paper instead of cloth. When folded up in a wet cloth, it is worked on the hurdle in the same manner that other hats are on the bason, but without any heat except what is imparted by the hands or any subsequent sprinkling. After being thus basoned, without any boiling, they are immediately taken to the battery to undergo the operation of planking. In consequence of the superior smoothness of furs over wool, any softening material in the kettle is unnecessary: but it is indispensable that some substitute be made use of which will have an effect equivalent to boiling in the former case. For this purpose, wine lees were formerly in general use, but this has given place to sulphuric acid, which, from the smallness of the quantity made use of, is cheaper, and more easily obtained. About a wine-glassful of the acid is added to the kettle of water; in pouring in which great care is neces

sary to prevent its sprinkling over the operator: it is afterwards added in small quantities as it is found necessary. Into this bath the hat is first dipped, and then suffered to lie on the plank till cold again. This is called soaking, which is unnecessary in hats that are previously boiled.

It appears that the acid in caroting, boiling, and working at the plank must act as a chemical agent on the substance of the hairs, but in what way it does so is not understood: practical hatters seldom give themselves the trouble to think on the subject. M. Chaussier conjectures that it may produce, either by softening or swelling the hairs, a certain alteration which is necessary to bring about the cohesion of the different fibres. It is said that acid of any kind, by taking out the greasy substances on each pile of hair, allows the roughness on the surface of each to operate with their full effect, and thus facilitates the mechanical action of felting. The action of felting being promoted, however, by greasy substances, renders this last solution a little doubtful. Perhaps some kind of mucilaginous substance may be on the surface of the hairs, as conjectured by Mr. Nicholson, which is disengaged by the action of the acid.

Plated hats are an article of modern date: they are said to have been invented in the north of England within the last fifty years; and Lancashire and Cheshire are at present the principal seat of their manufacture. These are a middle class between cordies and stuffs, designed as a substitute for the latter at a more reasonable expense. To effect this purpose the different kinds of stuff are plated on wool bodies. But, in consequence of the looser texture and thicker substance of this kind of felt, a nap of much finer materials could not be laid on in the usual manner so as to appear to advantage: it is found requisite therefore to have recourse to another expedient. The wool body, after it is boiled in about one part urine to three parts water, and has been worked sufficiently to complete the felting, is laid over a hair-cloth on the plank: the nap is then laid on the surface, sprinkled with a brush, and patted down. A layer of old stuff, or stuff which has its properties of felting destroyed, and carded cotton, or either of these separately, is bowed and laid on in the same manner, commonly mixed with a small portion of napping; and sometimes another layer is added. It is then slightly rolled a short time in the haircloth; but as the nap, by the process of rolling, would soon be lost by penetrating too deeply into the felt, it is discontinued, and the nap is fixed on by the operation of shaking and patting with the stopping-brush. The workman dips the article in the bath, and holding it by one of its edges between the forefinger and the thumb of each hand, strikes it down on the hair-cloth, at the same time depressing his hands in such a manner that the most distant edge may have an inclination given it to turn upwards, and thus after striking upon the cloth it is immediately raised off. This shaking is continued by repeated strokes in quick succession, frequently changing its position, and continuing the dipping, and patting it frequently with the brush. By this process the hairs are just fixed in by the roots,

without sinking too deeply, and a long flowing nap is obtained. The cotton and old stuff during the operation, sticking on the body of the hat by means of the hot liquor, preserve the nap from flying off; at the same time, by enabling it to hold a greater body of the fluid, the work is facilitated, and the nap is also preserved from the continued action of the brush. When the nap is completely fastened, which will be in about half an hour, the cotton and old stuff are loosened by striking with a flat stick, and continuing the shaking. In a short time they will appear in a loose flake over the surface, which is taken off with the fingers whilst the nap remains fixed by the roots in the substance of the felt: the cotton and old stuff are dried and preserved for future use. In plating, as the bodies are first boiled, and as the nap laid on is of a soft, smooth, nature, nothing is made use of in the kettle but clean water. Best stuff, hares' wool, neuter wool, seal wool, or a mixture of any of the stuffs, are made use of according to the intended quality. Neuter wool has a short, neat appearance as a nap; seal-wool naps are much esteemed, and wear remarkably well: for the best plates, some beaver is added to the other stuffs made use of.

It has lately become a practice to unite the common method of napping with that of plating in stuff hats, which have the name of shakeoffs given them. After a slight nap is first rolled on, a second, and principal nap, is shaken on in the same manner as in plated hats. A shorter fur may in this manner be applied to advantage, or one of the usual length will produce a more showy nap.

Hats have been worn of various colors, but those most in use at present are black, drab, and white. The white hats, which are only intended for ladies and children, have a nap of rabbits' fur, selected from the white skins. Drab hats are also made of stuffs of the natural color, assorted for that purpose. In dyeing black, the articles now in general use are logwood, of which Campeachy was the best, copperas, and verdigris. French verdigris is far superior to the English. For dyeing common cordie hats, the general proportions for twelve dozen are about twenty-four pounds of logwood, seven of copperas, and a quarter of a pound of verdigris. The logwood is chipped, and left in the boiler to soak the preceding night; part of the copperas and verdigris is then added and boiled with the logwood. The hats are each fastened on a block with a string tied round the band and boiled in the liquor, sometimes turning those nearest the surface, and placing a weight upon them to keep them under the liquor. After boiling about an hour they are taken out and exposed to the air, while a fresh quantity is boiled in the kettle the same time as before. This boiling and airing is repeated several times according to the strength of the dye, the perfection required, or the nature of the materials to be dyed, as experience has shown that the action of the atmospheric air, or the oxygen it contains, very much contributes to improve the dye; the remainder of the copperas and verdigris is added in a decreased proportion to each suit.

Common hats that are easily dyed have now generally two suits only; best hats from three to four. On account of the high price of verdigris, sulphate of copper or blue vitriol is frequently made use of in dyeing common hats in a larger proportion, or a mixture of about equal parts of each. But those dyed with verdigris only have the brightest appearance after finishing. After dyeing, the hats are well washed in clean

water.

After hats are dried, the next operation they undergo is that of stiffening. For the common purposes of stiffening, glue and vinegar dregs, beer grounds, or dregs from the distilleries are the articles made use of. The hat, for this purpose, is put into the crown of another large one, called the stiffening-hat, which is only felted and blocked, and has its crown slit open to admit the hat to be stiffened, of any depth the more readily. These are placed in the hole of a plank on which the brims are supported. The dregs are then first applied warm, with a brush similar to a large painting-brush, on the inside of the crown only; this is done by holding the brush in the right-hand, while the lefthand, holding the brim of the stiffening-hat, continually turns it round, that the enclosed may be uniformly covered with the dregs. The dregs are made use of as they are the cheapest mucilage, and give a degree of firmness to the hat, at the same time preventing the glue from penetrating through to the surface. After this is dry, the glue is applied to the crown in the same manner, which is made in the proportion of about one pound of glue to three pints of water. After it is laid on with the brush, it is well rubbed round with the hand; for which purpose it is found expedient to employ a second person in the business, who receives the hat of the first person as fast as the glue is laid on with the brush. It was remarked that, in the first formation of the hat, the part designed for the band was laid thicker than any other; as this part has the most wear-as the wet is most likely to penetrate here-and as the general firmness of the hat depends on the strength of the band, it is likewise necessary to attend particularly to this part in the stiffening.

In stiffening a quantity of hats, the crowns only are thus attended to in the first place. In common hats, the grounds are frequently mixed with the glue, and laid on at the same time. The brims are next stiffened with a common soft brush, and glue only, which is applied to the underside. This is well worked into the body of the felt with the hand, and the hats are placed in a stove to dry. When dry, the nap on the underside of the brim will be glued down to the felt; this is removed from the surface by scouring it with a brush and a quantity of warm soap-suds, which are pressed out of the nap by the blunt edge of a wooden or copper stamper. Ladies' light hats, and some of the children's fancies, are stiffened with the application of starch, or common flour paste only.

In France the composition of gum arabic, common gum of that country, and Flanders' glue, are employed for the purpose of stiffening. The brittleness of gum arabic has been found an

inconvenience, and a substitute has been sought for in some simple preparation from their indigenous plants. M. Chaussier observes, that mucilage is found in great quantity in many plants; it may easily be extracted by boiling; and a factitious gum, which is both supple and tenacious, may be formed by evaporation. These considerations led him to recommend, for the purpose of stiffening, a solution of glue in a strong and mucilaginous decoction of linseed. This preparation has been long used in the manufactory of the Cote d'or; and is both more economical, and more conducive to the beauty of the work. Since that time, M. Margeron having communicated to him some observations respecting the mucilage which may be extracted from the leaves of the horse-chestnut tree, and having ascertained how great a quantity of mucilaginous and glutinous matter these leaves furnish, especially when the foliation is in full vigor, a solution of glue, in a strong decoction of them, has been used with great success. Perhaps this mucilage from the leaves of the horse-chestnut might be worthy the attention of the English hatmaker.

As glue is subject to the action of moisture, hats, stiffened with that material alone, are not perfectly water-proof. Several expedients have been devised to obviate this inconvenience: one of the methods, perhaps, most generally known, is that of balling. A ball is formed by melting about three parts resin, four parts bees-wax, and two parts mutton suet. This is frequently rubbed over the inside part of the hat while planking, particularly over that part which is to form the band. After balling, the hats are stiffened with glue in the usual manner.

In 1802 Messrs. Ovey and Jepsin, of London, obtained a patent for a method of water-proof stiffening. This was done by preparing a double hat; the under one was made of coarse materials, stiffened, and covered with a cement made of one pound and three quarters of flour, three, quarts of water, one ounce of alum, and two ounces of resin; the latter was finely pulverised, and added while the rest was boiling; stirring it together until dissolved. The under part of the finer outside casing was also covered with the same, and then placed over the other, and united together by pressing with a cool iron. Water-proof stiffening, particularly for best hats, has lately been much attended to, and various are the methods employed by different manufacturers; but nothing appears to have so completely answered the purpose, and, at the same time to have been so advantageous in wearing, as that of stiffening with a solution of caoutchouc, or gum elastic. The exact method of the process is, at present, confined to a few hands, and industriously concealed from publicity.

The dry hat, after stiffening, is very rigid, and of an irregular figure; preparatory to finishing, therefore, it is fresh blocked. For this purpose it is necessary to soften the glue, which is done by the operation of steam. A hot iron is placed within a circular wooden frame, on which a wet cloth is thrown; the crown of the hat is then laid over the rising steam, whilst the brim rests

on the frame; and thus it is soon rendered sufficiently soft to receive the impression of a block of the intended size and shape. By the use of a hot iron, generally from twenty to twenty-five pounds in weight, a small card, brushes, &c., with the addition of water, the nap has the requisite direction given it, and receives its smoothness, and polish. Minute directions here are unnecessary; the judgment of the workman must be his principal director. It may not be useless to remark, that in watering the hats, which is done by a soft wetting brush for that purpose, the giving them plenty of water, and quickly passing a pretty hot iron over them, gives the glue a firmness and smartness, in which it will be deficient by more cautious wetting and more dilatory operations. If a little glue is accidentally drawn through the hat, by the heat of the iron, a wetted brush is laid on the iron a little to heat it sufficiently; and by the application of the warm, moist brush, and carding, it is soon extracted. Instead of water, oil was formerly used in finishing all descriptions of hats, and, for the coarsest sort of wool-hats, the practice has prevailed till very lately.

The instrument generally made use of for cutting the brims of round hats is merely a small worn-out card. At the outer edge a number of notches is cut for the purpose of inserting the point of a knife. The inner edge of the card, and the handle, is placed close to the crown of the hat, while on the block; and by placing the point of a knife in the proper notch, and drawing it round with the card, still keeping it close to the crown, the brim is evenly cut to any required dimensions. The hat is put in shape by curling the edges with the iron over a small rope for that purpose, stretching the hat out in an oval form by placing a screw or common stick across, and forming the brim with the hands while it is warm. The coarse hairs are picked out of the fine hats with a pair of steel pickers, and then given to be lined and bound; after which it receives the last finish, and is ready for the wearer.

Some years ago Mr. Hance, of Tooley Street Southwark, obtained a patent for a method of rendering beaver and other hats water-proof, which is thus described :-He takes a thin shell made of wool, hair, and fine beaver, to form the crown of the hat, and another shell, or plate, of the same materials for the brim. These parts are to be dyed black, and finished without glue or other stiffening, in order that they may not be injured by the rain, which, in other beaver hats, after being exposed to a heavy shower, draws out the glue and sticks down the nap, and makes it appear old and greasy. The shell may be made in one piece only, in the shape of the hat, blocked deep enough to admit of the brim being cut from the crown; the under side of the shell and the inside of the crown must then be made water-proof, by first laying on a coat of size or thin paste, strong enough to bear a coat of copal varnish, and, when thoroughly dry, another coat of boiled linseed oil. When dry, the crown must be put on a block, and a willow or cotton body or shape, woven on purpose, put into the inside of the crown and cemented in it. When dry, it