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E. LITTELL & BROTHER, 136 CHESTNUT STREET, PHILADELPHIA,

AND

G. & C. & H. CARVILL, BROADWAY, NEW YORK.

Clark & Raser, Printers, 33 Carter's Alley.

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MUSEUM

OF

FOREIGN LITERATURE AND SCIENCE.

JANUARY, 1829.

From the London Magazine.

AN ACCOUNT OF THE PRESENT
STATE OF TRIPOLI.

THE city of Tripoli, in Barbary, has of late years attracted particular attention, as affording the means of communicating with the regions of central Africa, for which purpose it is more favourably situated than any other place on the coast. The social condition of the inhabitants appears also more advanced, and the government better established and more secure, than those of the other Barbary states. Whilst Algiers, always the foremost in lawless insolence, is renewing its depredations, whilst even Morocco, emboldened by the example, is trying anew the course of piracy, and Tunis still keeps its corsairs armed for the first favourable opportunity,-the Bey of Tripoli appears to have, in earnest, given up for ever the old practice of privateering, and he keeps at peace with all the Christian powers, not excepting the feebler Italian states. Consuls, and merchants of various nations, are residing in the capital; their trade is protected and their property safe. In short, Tripoli stands now higher in the scale of civilization than any other part of Barbary.

We have been led to this subject by the perusal of an interesting memoir on the commerce, industry, and social condition of that country, and its intercourse with the newlyexplored regions of the interior, written by the Swedish Consul at Tripoli, M. Graberg de Hemso, and which has lately appeared in an Italian journal. We imagine that a short abstract of its contents will not be unacceptable to our readers.

The Regency of Tripoli has now been for a century past under the sway of the hereditary dynasty of Caramanli; the present Bey, Sidi Jussuf, is spoken of by Mr. Graberg in terms of high commendation. Considered as an African Prince, he is distinguished above all others by his moderation, the good choice of his ministers, and by principles of equity seldom violated. If led astray at times by the suggestions of some crafty courtier, he has shown himself open to remonstrance, and has listened to the evidence of right." It is especially since the last general peace, and after the final abolition of Christian slavery, obtained by Lord Exmouth, a stipulation ever Museum.-VOL. XIV.

since strictly maintained by the watchful care of the English Consul General Warrington, that the civilization of Tripoli must be dated. "The last-mentioned gentleman," candidly observed Mr. Graberg, "has exerted a great influence over the manners of these people. Before his time a Christian could hardly venture out of the town-gates with any safety; and now a European may, without protection, cross alone almost every tract of that vast state." The people of Tripoli begin to understand the value of peace, and the advantages of arts and commerce; they lose by degrees their former wild, roving habits; they are no longer the dependants of a lawless militia; and these are better securities of their future conduct, than the fortunate accident of their having now an intelligent and well-disposed sovereign. But when we speak of civilization and liberality, we ought not to forget that we are speaking, at the same time, of Barbary, and must not expect too much from any of her people. The capabilities of the country are very great, but sadly neglected by the indolent natives. The total absence of commercial and economical science in the government; the monopolies given to Jews and other speculators, to deal alone in certain articles; the reservation to the Bey himself of the sale of others, and the ruinous competition he exerts in the purchases; the injudicious restraints on trade, the taxes upon exports, and upon plantations,--all these act as checks upon industry. The occasional depredations of the Bedoweens in the interior, and the want of capital, which is felt in countries where men are still afraid of appearing wealthy, and prefer burying their gold to exposing it, by circulating it with profit, prevent agricultural improvements on a large scale. The country people also, who bring their produce to the bazaar, have been of late guilty of trickery and cheating, such as mixing water with their oil, putting stones in the packages of wool, &c. Such things were formerly unknown; and even now the inland trade between Tripoli and the interior is carried on with perfect faith. "The times are still," says Mr. G., "in the memory of men, when the mercantile probity and loyalty of the Mussulmans was proverbial; nor are these qualities altogether extinct in them, although no longer displayed in their intercourse with the Christians. Their own primitive ignorance, and their respect for the moral precepts of the KoNo. 79.-A

ran, rendered them a long time honest, and often the dupes of the designing Europeans."

The only manufactures of the country consists of coarse carpets of Messrata, baracans or cloaks, and prepared leather or morocco, red and yellow, the fine green and blue morocco being exclusively made in the country of Tafilet, a dependency of the empire of MorocCo. About five thousand goat-skins are prepared in Tripoli in this manner annually. The manufacture of potash is a monopoly of the Bey, as well as the exportation of salt, of which there is such a quantity, says Mr. G., as to sup. ply all Europe if wanted. The Venitians, in the time of their republic, had purchased the privilege of exporting salt, for which they paid a thousand sequins yearly; they went to load it on the coast of Zoara. The other articles of exportation are wool, hides, oil, salt butter, barley, dates, saffron, wax, and madder-root. Cattle and horses are also exported, the former chiefly for the supply of Malta. All these branches of trade would be susceptible of great improvement and increase, if the natives took pains to cultivate their soil, and to assist nature; but such is their neglect, that almost every article of produce has deteriorated, and the demand lessened, although the prices are exceedingly low their wool is dirty and mixed with sand; their oil, which is very good, is in small quantity, although the olive plantations might be increased without limit; the saffron, which is of the very best quality, is spoiled by being mixed with flour and other heterogeneous matters. The mulberry trees grow luxuriant ly, and yet silk worms have not been introduced.

A liquor called lagbee, is extracted by incision from the date tree, which at first tastes sweet and cool, but soon after ferments and becomes stronger than brandy. This is the lag; bee that has been mistaken by Horneman, and by his commentator Langles, for the name of the tree itself, and has led the latter learned man into useless researches about this supposed unknown plant. Out of the dates themselves a sort of brandy is distilled at Tripoli. A Jewish house enjoys the monopoly of this, as well as of the sale of wines and spirits, for which it pays the Bey 20,000 dollars annually.

This

Mr. Graberg gives a detailed table of the annual exports and imports of the three principal harbours of the Regency, Tripoli, Benghazi, and Derna; the exports ascending to 449,000 dollars, and the imports to 524,790. trade is chiefly carried on in Italian and French vessels. The natives have only boats of thirty tons or less, in which they carry on a coasting trade with the neighbouring countries of Tunis and of Egypt, which, however, is nearly at an end, since the Greek insurrection. The trade of Derna has suffered most from the latter cause. The Boy and his ministers are possess ed of four or five brigs and schooners.

The profit on the sale of European goods, especially manufactures adapted to warm cli mates, is seldom less that sixty per cent.; but it ought to be observed that months, and even years, often elapse before the entire payment is liquidated. Few purchasers pay in cash and

the government never. The latter, however, is, in many instances, the chief buyer, and it pays in bills called tezkheret, drawn at long terms on the governors and receivers of the revenue in the provinces along the coast, who pay the value in produce of their respective districts, such as oil, salt, barley, cattle, &c.

The exchange trade with the interior constitutes another active branch of the commerce of Tripoli, which place is one of the principal depots of European goods for the remote regions of central Africa. The caravans proceed from Tripoli to Marzouk, the capital of the tributary kingdom of Fezzan, where & great fair is held in the months of December and January. Then the goods are exchanged for those brought by the caravans from Bornou, Sakkatou, Houssa, Kashna, and Timbuctoo. The track of the caravans to the lastmentioned place passes through Ghadames, which is another state tributary to Tripoli, and governed by three sheiks. The inhabitants of Ghadames are supposed to be an aboriginal race; they speak a peculiar language which they call A'Dems, and are quite distinct from the Arabs, who surround them, and with whom they are generally at war.

The

The merchants from Fezzan and Ghadames arrive in the months of February or March at Tripoli, where they take on trust the goods after a twelvemonth or more, and pay punctuthey want for the interior, whence they return ally in gold dust and other articles. The profits on this exchange trade are enormous. goods most in request in the interior of Africa are swords, pistols and guns, Venetian glass beads, of which an incredible quantity is imported, coarse French and Italian cloths, silks, earthenware, yellow copper from the Levant, printed cottons, calicoes and striped muslins, writing paper from Genoa and Leghorn, coral, The returns are gold dust, chiefly from Timlooking glasses, razors, perfumes, and spices. buctoo, to the amount of fifteen hundred ounces annually, besides the tribute from Fezzan, which consists of four hundred and fifty ounces, ostrich feathers, ivory, senna, red alum, fine black slaves. cotton and dates from Fezzan, nitre, and lastly,

About two thousand of these poor creatures, caught by the Mahomedans of the interior in their grazzies, or marauding incursions, are yearly brought to Tripoli, whence the greater part are exported to Egypt and Turkey, a few only remaining at Tripoli for the service of the inhabitants, and these are generally treated with humanity. The Christian residents at Tripoli cannot purchase or hire slaves. The following are the prices of the black slaves in the market of Tripoli :-A grown up man, from 90 to 100 dollars; a boy from 10 to 18 years, 70 to 80-a child below ten years, from 40 to 50;-a grown up woman, from 120 to 150 dollars, according to her beauty;-a young girl from 90 to 100;-eunuchs, from 650 to 700 dollars each.

It is not, we believe, generally known that the slave trade, although forbidden on the Atlantic, is thus carried on freely in the Mediterranean. The number of slaves yearly brought to Tripoli, and thence exported by sea, used to be double the present amount, when the ves

sels of Tripoli took their cargoes to Egypt, lated, through Lord Exmouth's armed mediaTunis, and the Levant; but since the emanci- tion. Naples pays 24,000 dollars to Algiers, pation of the Hellenes, the Barbary slave-mer- 5000 to Tunis, and 4000 to Tripoli. Tuscany chants do not venture willingly under their and the Pope are still subject to occasional own flag, and it is in Christian vessels and vexations from some of the Regencies; they under Christian colours, says Mr. Graberg, that are, however, at peace with Tripoli, to whom the trade is carried on. Several vessels also they pay annual gifts. In this manner the come to Tripoli, from the coast of Albania, Bey of Tripoli, notwithstanding his mariunder the Ottoman flag, with cargoes of tim- time insignificance, manages still to extort ber for ship-building, which they exchange for about twenty thousand dollars yearly from the black female slaves, whom they take to Turkey Christians. And such is the poverty of his and Constantinople, and sell with great profit. finances, that "this branch of revenue is mortWe read some time ago an edict of the Empe-gaged," says Mr. G. "for several years to ror of Austria, forbidding his Italian subjects from carrying on the slave trade; but we fear that the other Italian states are not so scrupulous on the subject.

Another branch of the inland trade of Africa is in the hands of the people of Augela, a town of the regency of Tripoli. They have within a few years established a direct intercourse with the states of Bornou and Bagherm, without passing through Tripoli or Fezzan. The goods that are thus brought to Augela, are forwarded direct to Egypt through the Libyan desert.

The great caravan of pilgrims and merchants from Morocco to Mekka, which used to pass yearly through Tripoli, seems to be now discontinued. The only one Mr. Graberg has seen was that of 1824, which consisted of about three thousand men, a few hundred women and children, and two thousand camels, and was under the command of an Emir. It came from the city of Fez, and passing through the kingdoms of Algiers and Tunis arrived under the walls of Tripoli, where it halted about a month, and then pursued its way through the desert of Barca to Alexandria, Cairo, and Mekka. Most of the pilgrims now proceed by sea to Alexandria, on board Christian vessels. The Bey of Tripoli does not allow his subjects to perform this pilgrimage.

In the city of Tripoli there are two bazaars, well built and kept in very good order. Out of the land-gate a market is kept every Tuesday; and another five miles farther, also once a week. In the spring, about April, these markets are most abundantly supplied with cattle, poultry, game, and vegetables of all sorts. Towards June fruit begins to be plentiful. The sea abounds with fish; most of the fishermen are Maltese. From the mountains of Gharrion and Tarhona are brought quantities of hares, gazelles, red partridges, pigeons, and quails, which are sold at a very low price; fowls, which are excellent, are exported to the island of Malta.

It is one of the anomalies of European politics, that the Barbary powers should receive the tribute or gifts, as they are sometimes styled, from several Christian governments, in order to restrain their subjects from annoying them. Spain, Portugal, the Netherlands, Denmark, and the Italian states, submit to this humiliation; among the latter, however, Sardinia, has honourably freed herself from the yoke. The expedition she sent against Tripoli, in September, 1825, and which destroyed the flotilla of the Bey, and obliged the latter to sue for peace, confirmed the emancipation of the Sardinian flag, which had been already stipu

come.'

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In adverting to the complaints of the bad faith of the people of Barbary, the Swedish Consul takes an impartial and temperate view of the subject: he begins by observing, that the European character, with its jealousy, its interestedness, and its spirit of intrigue, has not shown itself to advantage, for ages past, to the uninformed and fanatical natives of the coast of Barbary. The adventurers from Italy, France, and Spain, who land upon that shore, are often men of dissolute character, who escape from the punishment or dishonour which threatens them in their native land. Provided with a passport, often surreptitiously obtained, and with a few packs of cards and dice, they contrive to abuse the simplicity of the Moors; and with the money thus acquired, some of them open wine-houses and places of debauch, where the lower classes indulge in the forbidden use of liquors, which they carry to the excess of intoxication. Others hawk about immoral prints, and obscene pieces of mechanism, to the scandal even of the barbarians. A Moor of Tunis, on being shown a watch of this description, exclaimed with honest contempt, that

if the Christians had any religion the workmen of such abominations would have had

*

their fingers clipped." In a little work, published in Italy some years ago, by a person well acquainted with Barbary, it is observed that the depraved conduct of many Europeans has largely added to the unfavourable opinion which Mussulmans are taught by early education to entertain of Christians; and instances are given of such conduct. The facility with which many bad Christians embrace Islamism, often to escape the punishment of their crimes, is an additional proof of this.

The inhabitants of Barbary consist of many different races. Besides the Turks from the Levant, who inhabit the cities and form the militia, there are the Moors, the Bedoweens, or Nomade Arabs, and the Berbers, or mountaineers of the interior. Part of the Moors are descendants of the Spanish Mussulmans; in the kingdom of Tunis they inhabit almost exclusively, several districts of the capital, the little town of Soliman on the coast, and the villages of Zowan and Destour in the interior. They are an industrious, thriving, and mild race, and their women are reported to be remarkably handsome; they seldom intermarry with the other Moors. Traditions of their former home, in the favoured regions of Andalusia, still subsist among those families, some of whom have preserved with religious care the

1. Christiani e i Barbareschi, 1822.

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